Need Help With Engine Swap

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Jeff Culp, Aug 18, 2013.


  1. Jeff Culp

    Jeff Culp New Member

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    This is my first post here. I have been doing a fair amount of reading and research trying to decide what to do with my '95 GT convertible automatic.
    The car has about 215,000 miles on it but is fairly sound except for the motor. My wife has been driving it for the last 11 years and is very attached to the car. I've considered rebuilding the motor that is in it, buying a crate motor, and even selling it and buying a car with lower mileage. I kind of like the last idea, but she really wants to keep this one. So, having read tons of threads on here and being on a tight budget, I have decided to replace the motor. The car is a stock automatic with a Mac H-pipe and Flowmaster catback.

    I found this motor out of a fox body with 5000 miles for $1000: 306, GT40P heads, new valve job, comp springs. 1.6 roller rockers, E cam, performer EFi intake,24# injectors, new water pump, under drive pulleys, new PS pump and alternator and belt, and poly motor mounts. I have also gotten a BBK 70mm TB, Edelbrock elbow adapter, C&L 73mm MAF, CAI, FRPP SS P-specific shorties, insulator boots for the plug wires, and a new starter.

    I have found out I need to switch over the water pump and timing cover, distributor, heater tubes, and flexplate for flywheel. I am also going to have to ditch the smog since the heads don't have the ports and EGR since the headers don't have the egr bung. When I was pulling the motor a lot of the plastic connectors and wire flex loom were brittle and a few broke.

    So here are my questions:
    1. Should I replace the water pump while access is easy?
    2. The torque converter was replaced when the tranny was rebuilt about 30,000 miles ago, but the guy that did it put an LKQ used one in. I really don't want to spend the money on a new one, but it would be so easy to do it now. The old one works fine. Replace it?
    3. With the mods will I need a higher output fuel pump, and if so what rate?
    4. 4 or 5 of the electrical connectors broke when I disconnected them. I have found a couple of them and I know a junkyard will provide the rest, but does anyone know a company that would have new pigtails?
    5. Do I need to change the valve covers? I can tell the ones on the new motor are not stock and see no reason they shouldn't work.

    6. Externally the oil pans are identical. Is there some other difference between the fox and SN95 pans that would make me have to change them?

    I'm sure I will have more questions as I move forward and thank's for taking the time to offer your feedback.
    #1
  2. lord_cobra

    lord_cobra Member

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    1. Yes. Cheap insurance.
    2. I probably wouldn't but others might since you are in there.
    3. Don't know on that one.
    4. You could check Rock Auto.
    5. Wouldn't think so.

    Good luck with the project. I would do the swap and keep the car too if the body is sound. Happy wife = Happy life

    Sent from my RM-860_nam_usa_100 using Tapatalk
    #2
  3. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard Mod Dude Founding Member

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    Edited, duplicate
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  4. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard Mod Dude Founding Member

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    1. I wouldn't bother unless it's leaking from the seep hole

    2. Nah, don't waste your money unless there's an issue

    3. I would, cheap insurance and yours is likely the tired stock unit. Go right to a 255 lph pump which can be found for $75-$100

    4. RJM Injection likely has all the connectors you need

    5. Should be ok with whats on it

    6. Same
    #4
  5. Jeff Culp

    Jeff Culp New Member

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    Thank you guys!

    One more: the new motor has the oil pressure sending unit mounted on an extension sticking out about 3" from the block and the sender doesn't look like the old one. Will this one work or should I replace it with a stock unit?
    #5

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