I have just finally purchased a Calibrated MAF for my 24# Injectors (Should have went larger but hey) I had the car tuned by a mechanic for the 24# injectors with the stock MAF for awhile and the car ran pretty well other than the floating of the throttle and such. Now When I dropped this in the car its running Way to rich im getting white exhaust smoke. Do I need to bump up my timing to compensate or what should even the timing marker be at? Thanks
Im not an expert but you should not be adding timing. Get the MAF setup correctly with tuning and a Wideband. Then you can add timing. Well at least thats how I see it being safe.
Well, you got the wrong meter he tuned your car for 24# injectors, Im guessing via a chip. He did this while you still had the stock MAF. They way the aftermarket MAFs work is by tricking the computer into thinking your flowing air differently than you acutally are there-by using less fuel for #19 injectors but pretty close for 24# injectors. You should of goten a MAF calibrated for 19# injectors, but being that you already have the meter and a chip, I would get the computer tuned for the MAF. Now I dont know why your running rich, you should be running lean, which it sounds like you are, white smoke is usually an indication of a lean condition, black or dark smoke means a rich condition. I wouldnt mess with the timing until you get those issues fixed, for now the base timing should be at 10*. After you get your issues fixed most can run 14* of base timing BUT have to use premium fuel. With gas prices the way they are you might want to re consider this for the 10hp gain your gonna get for that timing bump. That being said I wouldnt add timing this way, I'd have your tuner tune for max power with a safe level of timing without pinging. Hope that helps, Im sure grady will chime in here soon with even more info
No Chip was burnt I think I made a mistake here when I said he tuned it. All he did was time the car to run "better" no chips were burnt, no pcm was altered what so ever. I just had 24# Injectors on this new motor with a calibrated (stock) 19# MAF hooked up. So I think he may have retarded or advanced my timing a little to make it run decent with the mixture like this. So with that being said if im getting white smoke im running to lean? I will be getting a tweecer or something to see whats going on a little better and allow me to tune it anyone know of a good vendor to pick one up at? Tomorrow I will check out what this guy set the timing to for sure needed to know that it should be at about 10* thanks for the input guys.
Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If so, that'll need to be set back to 39lbs w/ vacuum off to accomodate the new meter. EDIT: The fact that it's blowing white smoke is a bit scary to me.
What exactly is smoking when you see white smoke to signify it's lean? If you go too lean the white smoke is coolant burning off from your broked-up headgasket.
idk, when I was messing with my firends 96 cobra, I backed the fuel pressure off by accidented and we started it, let it idle and it smoked white, I killed it, upped the pressure back up and it was gone.
Hrmm Ya this is not a broke head gasket been there done that and know what that looks like its not that much white smoke its def. related to the fuel/air mixture because if I plug the stock MAF back in with the current setup it runs fine just of course does the "Floating on a cloud Throttle Type of thing". I do not have a Fuel Pressure Regulator its using the Stock one and stock Fuel rails at the moment. so that could possibly help what would the stock 95 GT Fuel pressure regulator be set at? Thanks for all the input guys as well. Also how does this one look http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=ACC-74561&N=700 303707 115&autoview=sku what else would I need to toss a gauge on that? Or does anyone have any Suggestions on a good one
The stock FPR is at 39PSI with the vacuum line unplugged from it. If your MAF is calibrated for the 24# injectors and you have 24# injectors then you will need the FPR to be stock or at the stock setting. I'm curious to know what your mechanic did to lean out the mixture if he didn't adjust the fuel pressure - give me a shout back if you find out. Wes EDIT: No need for an aftermarket FPR if your injectors and MAF are both matched. The stock one is a-ok.
Thanks for the response Sweet wife will be happy I dont have to dump some more money into it right now Well from what he told me he just played with the timing to help it run a little better. To be honest I think he was full of he also did a crap job in wiring the fans up to a switch which I had to cleanup. if I get a chance this week I will video how the car is running with this MAF I think I just need to throw the light on it and check out what its timmed to and advance/retard it a tad.
Sounds like a plan to me. tjh556 hit it on the head above with the timing - stock timing is 10* BTDC, running premium, most get away with 13-14* without detonation (myself included). Enjoy the 'stang. Wes
Ok one more thing Ok also when I go to look at or alter my timing at all What steps should I take before touching the distributor. Should I unplug any harnesses or anything. Also Will it matter if I put the motor in TDC I dont really see a reason to considering it will start up and I will just be slowly advancing/restarding the timing a bit until its good to go. Figured I might as well ask before touching it. Thanks guys for all the input as well. Oh and also I see you guys said that the Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator runs at 39lbs when the vacuum is unplugged right? So I DO need to also do this now right?
1. Loosen distributor holddown bolt just enough to spin distributor 2. Pull the grey, squrae SPOUT connector in fender by air filter. 3. Start car 4. Hookup timing light to #1 plug wire - front, passenger's side wire. 5. Shoot light at timing indicator by balancer 6. Spin distributor May help to put whiteout on balancer beforehand if your #s are hard to read.
I got you all confused Haha sorry man I think I have you all confused. What I mean is should the vacuum line be pulled off the stock FPR regardless of while timing or not? to get the thing running at 39lbs? or is it fine to always keep the vacuum line on it? sorry for any confusion.
You always want to keep the vacuum line on the FPR connected. The only reason you would pull it is to check that your fuel rail pressure is 39PSI (which it should be without any vacuum). Wes
Very cool Thanks a million times over man the wealth of knowledge you posses will make small children happy in 3rd world countrys!
Oh man she be flooded Well I pulled the sprout connector out. Hooked up my timing light started the engine up then as I was moving the distributor I went a little to far and the car sputtered and died. So I went a hair back towards the mark that I had prior to moving it and tried to turn it over and now the car will not start and the motor does smell like its flooded. So my question is, is there a way other than waiting it out to prevent this from happening when your doing any timing adjustments and you go a little to far with the retard/advancements?
You've got to be fairly far out with the timing to kill it - if you've got an aftermarket balancer, make sure you're using the right timing markings (some like my Professional Products have a couple of sets). If the engine is flooded, you can floor the gas while you crank it (oddly enough this shuts off the injectors). Wes
