o2 Sensor Question (help)

[97rioreddohc]

O2 Sensor Question Help

Whats up fellas...

Well let me cut to the chase. I was driving home last night and my Check Engine light came on. I had a rebuild about 1 month ago and part of the build up included BBK Long Tubes, attached to a Bassani Xpipe (shortened) with Flowmaster's. I had the code scanned and it came out 0136 or 0163 I forgot which one but it read O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. Is it safe to assume the addition of LT's contributed to this? Can I pull the O2 sensor and clean it?? Is that even possible? What can I do to prevent it from happening again? and yes I do have MIL's. Any help appreciated.....

Ruben

 

[asthmaticZeater]

are the o2 sensors the stockers? it could just be their time to go.

 

[97rioreddohc]

are the o2 sensors the stockers? it could just be their time to go.

yeah they sure are..the car only has 67k mi on it.

 

[asthmaticZeater]

well. i believe theyre supposed to be swapped at 75k or so. ive seen a few go over 100k, but thats usually on pretty stock cars.

youre codes were for the front 02 sensors right? cause theres usually some drivability probs that occur when the fronts go bad.

 

[97rmcobra]

If it is sensor 2 then it is the O2 sensor you replaced with the MIL. So it could be the front O2 or maybe something wrong with the MIL/connections.

 

[97rioreddohc]

If it is sensor 2 then it is the O2 sensor you replaced with the MIL. So it could be the front O2 or maybe something wrong with the MIL/connections.

now that I'm thinking about it I've had to replace that MIL once already, but I didn't have the LT's when that happened, is this in any way related?

Anybody else?


btw...Thanks Everyone!

 

[97rioreddohc]

well. i believe theyre supposed to be swapped at 75k or so. ive seen a few go over 100k, but thats usually on pretty stock cars.

youre codes were for the front 02 sensors right? cause theres usually some drivability probs that occur when the fronts go bad.

What kinda of drivability problems?

thanks.

 

[TriBlkCobra]

If it was code 136 then that is bank 1 sensor 2 voltage level fail. Mil Elims can cause that code. And that code can show up with aged O2 sensors also. It has to do with how the Mil Eliminator interacts with the O2 sensor and the input impedence on the computer. Basically the Mil Eliminators act to some degree like a voltage divider and can cause a code P0136 or P0156 with an aged O2 sensor. Whose Mil Elims are they?

[edit] also, Mil Eliminators are not just a voltage divider, they're actually an electronic filter. The voltage division is a byproduct of using a passive filter network in the applcation. Just thought I'd clear that up.

 

[Sam98]

Code 136 indicates the left O2 sensor is indicating lean. You can swap that sensor with the one on the right but leave the MIL eliminators where they are. If you get code 176 next time, the O2 sensor is bad. If you get 136 again the problem is either your MIL eliminator or the wiring. Good luck.

 

[TriBlkCobra]

Code 136 indicates the left O2 sensor is indicating lean. You can swap that sensor with the one on the right but leave the MIL eliminators where they are. If you get code 176 next time, the O2 sensor is bad. If you get 136 again the problem is either your MIL eliminator or the wiring. Good luck.

Sorry but no, P0136 and P0156 are voltage level tests as I have already said and they are rear O2 sensor codes so they are not used in any way to determine a rich or lean condition. At least once during a drive cycle the computer forces a rich and lean condition and looks at all four O2 sensors to verify that they each reach minimum high voltage and maximum low voltage thresholds. If one doesnt, its flagged as a fail. For the rears, those fails are P0136 and P0156.

 

[Sam98]

Sorry but no, P0136 and P0156 are voltage level tests as I have already said and they are rear O2 sensor codes so they are not used in any way to determine a rich or lean condition. At least once during a drive cycle the computer forces a rich and lean condition and looks at all four O2 sensors to verify that they each reach minimum high voltage and maximum low voltage thresholds. If one doesnt, its flagged as a fail. For the rears, those fails are P0136 and P0156.

You didn't say you had P0136...you said 0136 which can easily be mistaken for the OBD-I code. P0XXX can only be an OBD-II code, I was looking at the OBD-I codes. I should have figured it out (97 - OBD-II).

I would still check your wiring and maybe swap MIL eliminators and see if the problem goes to the other side (P0156). I had an O2 sensor go out at around 40K though, so it could still be the sensor...

 

[TriBlkCobra]

I would still check your wiring and maybe swap MIL eliminators and see if the problem goes to the other side (P0156). I had an O2 sensor go out at around 40K though, so it could still be the sensor...

Agreed. That is the method I would recommend also.

 

[DarkHorse164]

Agreed. That is the method I would recommend also.

I just disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes and the SES light goes away.

 

[Dominus_Servi]

As mentioned above, it is probably just time to replace it. I had one go bad at 40k on my last mustang and it turned out one of the wires burned through. If that is the case you might be able to reconnect a damaged wire. You should definately get it replaced though because the computer defaults your car to run lean, so your suffering a minor power loss.

 

[97rioreddohc]

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll try reconnecting them and disconnecting the battery at the same time, see what happens. How much do O2 sensors go for anyway?

 

[TriBlkCobra]

DarkHorse, are you saying thats what you're doing now or are you having problems and looking for help?

Dominus Servi, for a rear O2 code engine tuning is not altered in any way whatsoever. Some codes will alter tuning, but not a rear O2 code.

 

[DarkHorse164]

DarkHorse, are you saying thats what you're doing now or are you having problems and looking for help?

Dominus Servi, for a rear O2 code engine tuning is not altered in any way whatsoever. Some codes will alter tuning, but not a rear O2 code.

I had the listed exhaust mods installed (see sig) a couple months ago. Prior to the install, I had no problems with SES lights. A friend who works for Ford locally, and I installed everything together at his shop. Two days after install, I got the 1st SES light and my friend checked it. It was the rear 02 sensor/MIL's. He suggested that I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and it would reset itself. Since the install, I've had 2 more SES instances which were corrected in the manner described. No running problems or issues! I'm planning on having my computer reflashed by T&J once I get my gears installed to eliminate the MIL problem altogether. Oh, for what it's worth, the MIL's are BBK's brand. Not the best choice I hear

 

[TriBlkCobra]

I think the BBK's are DMP ones. They we're at one time anyway. If you've got a digital camera snap a pic of one and email it to me at [email protected] and I can tell for sure. Can you tell me what the exact codes were? That would help me know where to go. Hell you bought them, you might as well use them. I'm assuming in the reflash you're talking about turning of the OBDII catalyst efficiency monitor? Also, in a couple of weeks I will have another set that I might want to get you to try if you're interested. Could be as long as three to four weeks out though.

 

[Sam98]

I had the listed exhaust mods installed (see sig) a couple months ago. Prior to the install, I had no problems with SES lights. A friend who works for Ford locally, and I installed everything together at his shop. Two days after install, I got the 1st SES light and my friend checked it. It was the rear 02 sensor/MIL's. He suggested that I disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and it would reset itself. Since the install, I've had 2 more SES instances which were corrected in the manner described. No running problems or issues! I'm planning on having my computer reflashed by T&J once I get my gears installed to eliminate the MIL problem altogether. Oh, for what it's worth, the MIL's are BBK's brand. Not the best choice I hear

Clearing the code does not fix the problem any more than disconnecting the temerature sensor will prevent your engine from overheating. MIL eliminators are a band aid, and if the option is available, a PCM reflash is the best solution. The rear O2 sensors are only used to monitor how well the cats are working so there are no drivability problems assoicated with these codes. If you don't have an intermittent connection in the MIL eliminator, and the O2 sensor is functional you shouldn't be getting any codes, but if you can live with resetting the KAM every few days until you reflash, that is a solution too. I wouldn't waste money on O2 sensors if you are going to disable the checking in the near future though...

 

[DarkHorse164]

I think the BBK's are DMP ones. They we're at one time anyway. If you've got a digital camera snap a pic of one and email it to me at [email protected] and I can tell for sure. Can you tell me what the exact codes were? That would help me know where to go. Hell you bought them, you might as well use them. I'm assuming in the reflash you're talking about turning of the OBDII catalyst efficiency monitor? Also, in a couple of weeks I will have another set that I might want to get you to try if you're interested. Could be as long as three to four weeks out though.

I'll see what I can do about the pics. As far as the codes go, I don't remember what they were exactly. next time I get a SES light, I'll give my buddy a shout and have him check for me. As for the computer reflash, I'm doing this mainly to recal my gearing (3.73's go in this weekend ) and to get a tune for my current mods. I figured I'd have them tune it to 'ignore' the MIL's since it can be done.