Official HOW TO THREAD...
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trav_19
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Completed 255 fuel pump install
Just installed mine. Took 1 1/2 hours. That is from someone who has never done this before also.
Just installed mine. Took 1 1/2 hours. That is from someone who has never done this before also.
mustang6tee8
Member
Finding exhaust leaks
In order to check to see if you have any exhaust leaks, buy some dry ice, stick a good amount in the tailpipes and cover the ends. The CO2 vapor will eventually fill up the exhaust and out the leak.
In order to check to see if you have any exhaust leaks, buy some dry ice, stick a good amount in the tailpipes and cover the ends. The CO2 vapor will eventually fill up the exhaust and out the leak.
trav_19
New Member
looking for one on headlight removal / install all im finding is side marker lights and i need to get the lights out...i peaked at it and its harder then my z71 i just have to pull a clip lol...
trav_19
New Member
well last night i started tearing it apart and it sucked i was playing forever on the clips and i heard that was the easy part i was not looking foward to continuing lol...i found it a lot easier if i took the side markers out first haha then the clips can auctually come up....then i started messing with the black tabs that need to be pressed in so they can slide thru the hole....
wow what a pain all of mine were vertical so one tab was on the bottom it was such a PITA i found it easiest to pull on the headlight and push one tab in...then take something and push up on the bottom one. however on the inside two clips i couldn't grab the light and really pull it so the best way i found was to use one pair of needle nose to squeeze the tabs in and use another pair of needle nose with the bent nose and i put the tip of it on the screw and push it so it forced it out once i got the tricks it took maybe 6 mins to get them out after the 40 mins i spent on them earlier haha
wow what a pain all of mine were vertical so one tab was on the bottom it was such a PITA i found it easiest to pull on the headlight and push one tab in...then take something and push up on the bottom one. however on the inside two clips i couldn't grab the light and really pull it so the best way i found was to use one pair of needle nose to squeeze the tabs in and use another pair of needle nose with the bent nose and i put the tip of it on the screw and push it so it forced it out once i got the tricks it took maybe 6 mins to get them out after the 40 mins i spent on them earlier hahaThis doesn't apply to only 94-95 Mustang's but a very informative how-to on plugging the holes left when you remove your spoiler.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/spoiloff.htm
Also check out his other articles, some of it relates to "new edge" V6'ers only, but other stuff is useful for all Mustang's especially his "Mustang Suspension Basics". http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/spoiloff.htm
Also check out his other articles, some of it relates to "new edge" V6'ers only, but other stuff is useful for all Mustang's especially his "Mustang Suspension Basics". http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm
FRONT LCA REMOVAL
After a harrowing experience with my front LCA's, and upon our good friend JT's recommendation, I'm going to post some info that will hopefully help someone else out down the line. With the age of our cars, it will become increasingly more common to see seized bolts in areas that haven't been touched since the build date of the car. One of these areas is typically the front (and rear) LCAs. This tutorial assumes that you know how to get the brakes, struts, springs, endlink and spindle off of the control arm. If you're having trouble with any of those areas a search should help you. This method assumes you are using NEW LCAs, and not reusing your old ones.
TUTORIAL:
The problem is not so much that the problem bolts won't spin, rather that they won't come out. It's pretty common that the front bolts seize into the control arm sleeve if they haven't been moved in 13 years. For me, the rear most control arm bolts came out with ease, but I have no guarantee that anyone else's situation will be the same time
If you are able to remove the back nut from a problem bolt, ideally the bolt should simply slide out. Reality is somewhat different however, and even with a BFH it will most likely refuse to budge. My only option was to cut the suckers out.
tools used:
21mm socket and appropriate breaker bar
21mm wrench
15/16 wrench (or equivalent in mm - this is for the nuts on the bolts)
reciprocating saw (optional, and not recommended for cutting off the bolts, only recommended for cutting off the control arm)
Angle grinder (bigger is better, but I did it all with a 4.5" unit)
Eye protection
BFH (but not too big)
PB blaster or equivalent
Patience
1. Remove rear front control arm bolt (this one should come out smoothly - at least both of them did for me )
2. Waste 2-5 hours breaking sockets, bruising hands, getting PB blaster in your eye, etc trying to get the front bolt out.
3. Take an angle grinder or reciprocating saw to the arm, cutting it so that only the small part of the arm extending from the problem bolt remains.
4. By this point, you should be able to get the bolt to atleast spin, because you will have better access to hit it with a BFH.
5. Remove the nut on the back of the bolt
6. Spin the bolt (it will move what remains of the control arm with it) so that you have an optimal angle to get the grinder in there.
7. Grind away on the rightmost bushing, spinning the bolt as necessary for clearance. Try not to breathe in the burning bushing...and take it off as soon as you can so you don't breathe in more than necessary.
8. Once you get through the bolt, pry the sleeve towards the gap you have created with the grinder. This should give you sufficient clearance to cut the other side of the control arm bushing.
9. Install new control arm
I will try to get pictures for clearer reference. I can mock up the entire situation still as I am waiting for parts before I rebuild.
After a harrowing experience with my front LCA's, and upon our good friend JT's recommendation, I'm going to post some info that will hopefully help someone else out down the line. With the age of our cars, it will become increasingly more common to see seized bolts in areas that haven't been touched since the build date of the car. One of these areas is typically the front (and rear) LCAs. This tutorial assumes that you know how to get the brakes, struts, springs, endlink and spindle off of the control arm. If you're having trouble with any of those areas a search should help you. This method assumes you are using NEW LCAs, and not reusing your old ones.
TUTORIAL:
The problem is not so much that the problem bolts won't spin, rather that they won't come out. It's pretty common that the front bolts seize into the control arm sleeve if they haven't been moved in 13 years. For me, the rear most control arm bolts came out with ease, but I have no guarantee that anyone else's situation will be the same time
If you are able to remove the back nut from a problem bolt, ideally the bolt should simply slide out. Reality is somewhat different however, and even with a BFH it will most likely refuse to budge. My only option was to cut the suckers out.
tools used:
21mm socket and appropriate breaker bar
21mm wrench
15/16 wrench (or equivalent in mm - this is for the nuts on the bolts)
reciprocating saw (optional, and not recommended for cutting off the bolts, only recommended for cutting off the control arm)
Angle grinder (bigger is better, but I did it all with a 4.5" unit)
Eye protection
BFH (but not too big)
PB blaster or equivalent
Patience
1. Remove rear front control arm bolt (this one should come out smoothly - at least both of them did for me )
2. Waste 2-5 hours breaking sockets, bruising hands, getting PB blaster in your eye, etc trying to get the front bolt out.
3. Take an angle grinder or reciprocating saw to the arm, cutting it so that only the small part of the arm extending from the problem bolt remains.
4. By this point, you should be able to get the bolt to atleast spin, because you will have better access to hit it with a BFH.
5. Remove the nut on the back of the bolt
6. Spin the bolt (it will move what remains of the control arm with it) so that you have an optimal angle to get the grinder in there.
7. Grind away on the rightmost bushing, spinning the bolt as necessary for clearance. Try not to breathe in the burning bushing...and take it off as soon as you can so you don't breathe in more than necessary.
8. Once you get through the bolt, pry the sleeve towards the gap you have created with the grinder. This should give you sufficient clearance to cut the other side of the control arm bushing.
9. Install new control arm
I will try to get pictures for clearer reference. I can mock up the entire situation still as I am waiting for parts before I rebuild.
armyed
Member
Does anyone know where I can find a how to article on replacing my 95gt brakes with a 98 cobras?
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