Oil Pan?

  • Sponsors (?)


#4
gt350s had 7 qt pans. is your car going to be street driven or track and if track, drag or road course?

road courses you want baffels inside which the mildon does (you didnt post link to the other).

i wouldnt put an 8 qt on and drive it on the street here in ky. we got some pretty brutal bumps and holes. a good sized speedbump will drag that oil pan.


does that help any?
 
#5
So what's the customary needs / requirements for the different oil pan capacities? When should a driver switch from a stock 5 qt to a 7 qt and then an 8 qt?

Is it the number of RPM's your pulling? I'm sure a benefit is cooler oil temp...

Scott
 
#7
I run an 8 quart oil pan without any issues- my headers are more of a concern then my oil pan is because the wheels are in line with speed bumpsso when they go over the oil pan goes up with it, but once I straddle a bump with the front tires my headers will be hanging even closer to the bump.

Either way you can get basically the same 8qt oil pan on Ebay for $100-thats what I did.
 
#8
I have a baffled Canton 7 qt. pan on my 331. That's what DSS recommended, and the quality and fit is excellent. With the kick-outs on the sides, there's no clearance problems either, even with the car lowered.
 
#9
i had that same pan in my '66 with all stock suspension and it scared me to death to go over speedbumps or any pothole in the road.

i bottomed out twice, but never punctured it.

had a couple nasty scrapes on the bottom. i took it out when i put my new motor in
 
#13
Three years of street and open-track driving on my 8-quart Canton pan, including some time where the car was lowered a bit more than I intended (probably 2" from stock). Never scraped it. Never worried about it.
 
#14
hivewax said:
what are the best pans out there? Milodon or Canton?

i'm thinking of getting this Milodon 8qt pan for my 289 stroked 347 -
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL-31926&N=700+0&autoview=sku

from searchin' this forum... is there interference with the stock front cross-member on a '66 GT? and is ground clearance an issue over bumps/dips?
Click to expand...

I bought a 7qt Canton road road pan for my 351w, and there are no clearance problems. The road race pan has baffles and it doesn't hang very low... it's more wide than low.

I got mine from streetortrack.com
 
#15
67topless said:
So what's the customary needs / requirements for the different oil pan capacities? When should a driver switch from a stock 5 qt to a 7 qt and then an 8 qt?

Is it the number of RPM's your pulling? I'm sure a benefit is cooler oil temp...

Scott
Click to expand...

LoL, first of all the comment about making sure you have adequate clearance to the ground is important!!! A friend of mine put a 7 qt on his car, drove a little fast over railroad tracks, and ended up scraping his pan on the ground and leaked all his oil all over the road....

The only time you might switch from 5qt to anything more is for three reasons:
1) You are running a high volume oil pump
2) You are turning 4000 rpm plus all the time, like circle track or road course racing, or even serious drag racing
3) You are running a supercharger cooled from your engine's oil supply

I don't see how having more oil results in cooler oil temps. It takes longer for the oil to heat up, yes, but it will eventually reach the temp your engine wants it to no matter how much oil is in it, unless you are running some kind of external oil cooler. But why would you want cooler oil temps anyway? Cold oil robs power.

Shakin66, I like how you turned the can so that the words all got in the picture:nice:
 
#17
Fast63 said:
LoL, first of all the comment about making sure you have adequate clearance to the ground is important!!! A friend of mine put a 7 qt on his car, drove a little fast over railroad tracks, and ended up scraping his pan on the ground and leaked all his oil all over the road....

The only time you might switch from 5qt to anything more is for three reasons:
1) You are running a high volume oil pump
2) You are turning 4000 rpm plus all the time, like circle track or road course racing, or even serious drag racing
3) You are running a supercharger cooled from your engine's oil supply

I don't see how having more oil results in cooler oil temps. It takes longer for the oil to heat up, yes, but it will eventually reach the temp your engine wants it to no matter how much oil is in it, unless you are running some kind of external oil cooler. But why would you want cooler oil temps anyway? Cold oil robs power.

Shakin66, I like how you turned the can so that the words all got in the picture:nice:
Click to expand...

Why do you want your oil to not overheat ? The same reason you don't want your coolant to over heat and more. The oil is closer to the internal parts, infact it is right on most of them. The oil is the first line of defense in keeping the parts cooled down or as you might say normally... overheating. Even if your cooling system is massive, you can still easily run into heat problems but you wouldn't know it unless you had a temp gauge for your oil. Additionally, when oil overheats it starts to brake down and doesn't provide the protection it is suppose to.

The extra volume gives the oil 2 advantages that I can see off the top of my head. Number one, you have more oil which can trap contaminants so you have less contamination in your oil per quart for the same amount of use. Next, the increased volume of the oil allows it to dissapate the heat better because there is a larger surface area. The oil pan will act as a heat synch and pull the heat away from the oil helping it to cool. Because more oil is touching the oil pan it has a greater contact surface area to its heat synch.

Adding an oil cooling with a thermostatic control is a great way to keep your oil at the proper tempurature.

Anyone want to add/correct me on this please do.
 
#18
First of all, I think your theory on oil contamination is bunk. If you are really that concerned about contamination, you can change your oil more often, to the extent that you would use the same amount of oil that a 7qt pan would provide.

Secondly, the amount of cooling you are talking about with extra oil and extra heat dissipation is negligible. Do you know of any graphs that have monitored the difference between the two setups that you could introduce?

Thirdly, it is harder on an engine to be running cold oil through it than it is running warmed up oil. So, you are creating more wear on your parts by having your engine take longer to reach operating temp by making it heat up 7-9 qts instead of 5.

A thermostatic control on oil temperature would be great, as long as you are not cooling the oil too much and ONLY preventing it from getting TOO hot or boiling. But if you had such control, what is the point of the extra oil capacity to keep the oil cool? Just my thoughts.
 
#19
:D I just run the bigger pan to insure it doesn't go dry in full power 1/4 mile runs:rlaugh: If the oil runs cooler, so be it. It sure doesn't stay any cleaner. :rlaugh: In swapping oil pan gaskets last weekend, I removed the 8 qt pan (or is it 9 qts?:shrug: ) anyway, I had fun cleaning the black soot from it (running Shell Rotella T 15-40) Damned crap adhered to the insides of the pan. This oil had all of maybe 30 miles total on it.
 
#20
Fast63 said:
First of all, I think your theory on oil contamination is bunk. If you are really that concerned about contamination, you can change your oil more often, to the extent that you would use the same amount of oil that a 7qt pan would provide.

Secondly, the amount of cooling you are talking about with extra oil and extra heat dissipation is negligible. Do you know of any graphs that have monitored the difference between the two setups that you could introduce?

Thirdly, it is harder on an engine to be running cold oil through it than it is running warmed up oil. So, you are creating more wear on your parts by having your engine take longer to reach operating temp by making it heat up 7-9 qts instead of 5.

A thermostatic control on oil temperature would be great, as long as you are not cooling the oil too much and ONLY preventing it from getting TOO hot or boiling. But if you had such control, what is the point of the extra oil capacity to keep the oil cool? Just my thoughts.
Click to expand...

You are absolutely wrong about the extra oil not helping with contamination. There is a reason Mercedez uses 8 quarts of synthetic in a v6 motor and the oil change interval is between 11000 and 15000. Part of it is sythetic oil and part of it is the volume of oil used.

Second, I don't need a graph. If you have ever heard of conduction that explains it plane and simple. I couldn't say if this would make a big difference. You are provably right, I would be willing to bet it is a fairly negligable difference.

As far as the oil taking longer to heat up, big deal. You shouldn't be beating your engine up until its started to warm up anyways.

As far as a thermostatic setup to control flow through the oil cooler, if it isn't setup to keep the oil at a proper temp, why have it at all ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Fox No Boost And Stumped
Replies
63
Views
10K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
TWEECD
T
W
Oil pan hitting steering middle steering arm
Replies
12
Views
5K
Classic Mustang Specific Tech
workingonit
W
1200gt
  • Locked
Expired Bunch of PARTS FOR SALE! Going Street car only
Replies
1
Views
2K
Other Classifieds
1200gt
1200gt
jcode68
Dumb oil pan capacity question
Replies
8
Views
2K
Classic Mustang Specific Tech
jcode68
jcode68
95riosnake
Aftermarket oil pan
Replies
33
Views
7K
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Joe 5.0
Joe 5.0
Top Bottom
Back
New
Hot
Menu