OK to take EGR of 5.0 in my 1941 Mercury?

OK to remove the EGR from the 5.0 in my 1941 Mercury?

I've droped a '92 5.0HO AOD in my 41 mercury and am about ready to start wiring the engine. I want to know if any of the Smog-cheaters have taken off their EGR valve and if they have had any problems with the ECU or engine management. I also removed the smog tubes going into the heads and removed the cats. I want to keep it simple and remove what i dont need. Upgrades like intake plenum might come later, but its mostly a stock cruiser
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Depending on where you're located, you may have difficulty with emissions legality with those changes as some jurisdictions require the vehicle to pass visual/sniffer tests for the yera of the ENGINE in the vehicle if it's been swapped.

A lot of folks have deleted both systems. The air injection deletion rarely seems to cause anyone to post with problems although the computer will probably store an error code. The egr is a mixed bag. Most folks find that deleting it sets off a check engine light - which your application probably won't have anyway. It will definitely store error codes. And it may or may not cause drivability issues. The computer expects that at part throttle the egr valve will be functioning. The exhaust helps cool the combustion charge, and allows more timing to run by the computer. If the egr is removed, sometimes the extra timing along with a hotter chamber (hotter because of no egr) causes pinging. Easily solved by backing off the initial timing, but the car doesn't run as well with less timing. Unless you're removing the egr just to clean up the compartment, there's absolutely no performance benefit to removing it. And, unless you turn off that function in the computer with a chip, removing it may negatively impact performance - albeit slightly. All of that (air pump, cats, egr) is removed on mine, and we turned off all related functions in the computer with a chip.
 
Just removed all my smof stuff and I got the dreaded CE light. Yupp, it's from blocking the holes in the heads and plugging the EGR. The search engine here helped my find the answer to fix the problem. Supposedly there is a part that is a 10ohm resistor that plugs into the EGR that makes the car think it's still functional.
 
It doesn't make the car think it's still functional. It simply makes the car think it's less 'broke'. It sets a soft error code which won't trigger the CE light, as opposed to a hard code which triggers the light.

Listen for part throttle detonation -- sometimes this rears it's head when the egr is rendered inoperative. With or without the resistor, the computer will still try to pull fuel and add timing - which can trigger detonation without the chamber cooling effect of the exhaust (inert gas) injection. Using a chip/tweecer/pms to actually turn off the egr function in the ecu is the best way to disable the egr.