Just wondering if there is anything else i should look at doing when i get my upper and lower intake manifolds off? i was thinking about maybe new valve covers and/or rockers? What will 1.6 or 1.7 RR do for my setup (in sig)? Anything else i should do while i've got the manifolds off?
I was also going to suggest valve cover gaskets.....spend a little more and get the Explorer style with the metal core (not just the metal around the bolt holes, the full metal core style...they're awesome).
I like the rubber gaskets for valve covers. They have metal rings and have always worked great every time I used them on anything Might as well do the T-stat too, and you could flush the radiator if it's been a while or you think it may help the temps.
i just did the t-stat when i changed my waterpump a couple months ago, but thanks for the ideas. I was thinking of some nicer valve covers while i'm in there probably, so def. going to do new gaskets if i do that. So i figure if i have the vc's off, is there much i can do with the top end without removing the heads? maybe springs or adjustments? new roller rockers? is it worth the effort and money to replace the stock rockers with some aftermarket 1.6 or 1.7 rr's? what should i use if i do? is there anything i'm missing that would be much easier to do while the manifolds are off? lines, sensors, pvc etc.???
if it was my car and i was doing that, id find out how to adjust the backlash on the lifters or wahtever. mine are ticking a little, and id get nicer valve covers, and gaskets, id also try to clean what i could see on the top of the heads, and check the oil feed and return.
Well for me, I bought a Cobra intake last year and decided to port match it - then decided there wasn't any point in port matching to stock heads, so I bought some TW's. Then rr's, then shiny valve covers, then I started hiding wires b/c everything else looked so nice, then found I had to smooth and paint the engine bay....ugh. Point of this post: Just put the intake on - you'll wallet will be thicker.
I think everyone has covered you quite well, I didn't read all posts, but replace all your cooling/heater hoses. Replace the bypass hose too, from the heater tube on the intake to the intake. I skipped that 99 cent hose, and guess what developed a pin hole and caused me to lose ALL fluid at 3:30a.m. on the freeway when it was about 38* outside!!!!!!!! I had no jacket, and I had to push the car off the freeway....then milk it to a gas station to fin something I could make a quick fix with! I didn't get home until about 6:00a.m.
I'd def. do a new PCV valve.. that thing is a PITA to reach with the intake on the car. As far as changing anything in the valvetrain... I've been wondering the same thing. Gonna do an Explorer or TMoss intake soon and I dunno if I should refresh anything in there like lifters, springs or rockers while I have the intake off (bone stock, untouched longbock in my case).
If the funds are there I would do valve springs , seals, 1.7 rockers , adjustable fuel regulator, phenolic intake spacer, new factory ford valve cover gaskets, & pcv. The valvetrain is optional but if you are over 60,000 miles i would definately consider it. With the right intake you could easily gain half a second at the track.
what would springs seals and rockers cost to do? as for the afpr, is it really much easier to do when the intake is off compared to when its on? I'm not looking to spend too much, but i do want to do things right and not have to keep tearing the engine apart for future mods....
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TFS-2500100&N=700 115&autoview=sku $134 is cheap insurance for valve float. Seals are $15. AFPR is much easier with intake off.
