Progress Thread Pearl To White - Paint Time

Thanks. The harness from the 3rd brake light should run through the spoiler and through an opening inside the hatch correct? I took a peak inside the hatch through where the plugs are hanging out and didn’t see a harness running through to the spoiler. I also noticed that the spoiler is not bolted down. There are no nuts installed on the studs that stick through but the spoiler seems secured.

I has to order a whole interior hardware kit from LMR to start putting my interior back together.
 
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Hatch wasn’t even attacked with any nuts. It was held on with double sided tape. Got it off and noticed the harness wasn’t ran through the spoiler so I fished it through. I’m waiting for some hardware to arrive that I ordered and will install the spoiler with harness ran through the hatch correctly. Should I attempt to remove the tape? Worried that I won’t be able to get it all off.

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I'm not an expert on it, but I'd say might as well leave the tape on there but absolutely bolt it back down correctly. It really sucks to see so much half assed but at least the paint does look nice and you can correct the rest.
 
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Left (drivers) side, two wires, this one is red and black wires, plug is gone though, grommet goes into the hatch. Didn't look to see what year this one is but it likely does not matter.
I made this post this morning, don't know why but sometimes I don't hit POST hard enough I guess :doh:
 
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I'm seriously considering keeping the door panels. arm rest and rear seat that belongs to the shop. I've been trying to help sell it all to help get their money back but the more I mess with my car the more is makes me mad at all the stuff I have to deal with. Would that be wrong of me though?

I gave them $2500 cash, paid for the replacement door panels, arm rest and rear seat when they couldn't find mine out of the $2500 balance that I owed them. Spent about $300 on parts that they lost of mine and still have to purchase inner splash shields that they couldn't find. LMR has them out of stock. And they lost my damn antique license plate so have to get another one. Plus having to purchase other stuff to get the car all back together.
 
Take out your wallet and checkbook, cut any strings attached, you owe them nothing! Period. The End. You paid for the door panels, they are yours! Don't feel sorry for the shop owner.
Yeah that's what I'm thinking as well. I thought I would have everything to make the process simple on going back together but that's not the case. I hate being that kind of a person but just don't feel it's fair to me. I feel like he should get some of the money back from his body man who was paid 100% for the job but didn't finish putting my car back together.
 
Yeah that's what I'm thinking as well. I thought I would have everything to make the process simple on going back together but that's not the case. I hate being that kind of a person but just don't feel it's fair to me. I feel like he should get some of the money back from his body man who was paid 100% for the job but didn't finish putting my car back together.
That’s between him and his body man!! You got screwed in this deal no matter how you look at it! It’s not up to you to make it right for him, by any means!!
 
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One of the studs on my rear spoiler needs to be replaced. I already have the replacement stud from LMR but not sure the best method to take on securing it to the spoiler. Can I just use some JB Weld or is there a better product to go with?

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I purchased some regular JB Cold Weld Epoxy, the twin black and red tube version prior to seeing your recommendation of the Gorilla epoxy. Should I return it and go with the Gorilla epoxy?

 
Man now you have me second guessing myself. Any other body shops around that you can call? Other options would be a two part urethane adhesive or fiberglass resin. any of these you would mix them up and then fill the hold about half way full and then install the stud and let it set up.
 
I spoke with a local guy who does paint and bodywork part time. He's been doing it for years. Said that the JB weld would be best to go with. I'll give it a try and report back in a few days. I plan on letting it cure for about 48 hours.
 
I spoke with a local guy who does paint and bodywork part time. He's been doing it for years. Said that the JB weld would be best to go with. I'll give it a try and report back in a few days. I plan on letting it cure for about 48 hours.
When you read stories about JB weld being used successfully to fix cracked engine blocks, I would think this would work well....
 
When you read stories about JB weld being used successfully to fix cracked engine blocks, I would think this would work well....
It seems to have worked well but I haven't bolted it down yet. Planning on doing that later today. This was my first time ever using JB weld.
 
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What is the best way to remove some of the tape that is on the hatch? Noticed that some pieces of it shows when the spoiler is installed, and I don't like the look of it.