Pioneer Avic-D3 Installation Write-Up

Discussion in '2005 - 2009 Specific Tech' started by nonstopred, Jan 16, 2008.


  1. nonstopred

    nonstopred New Member

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    Technical Write up thread. (How To)

    Avic-D3 Installation Notes (Shaker 500 Stereo)

    I ordered the head-unit from CartronixPlus.com it was $579+Shipping+Install Kit =$623

    The install kit was kind of annoying how they sent me the harness for the non-Shaker stereo (70-5520), and then did not ship me the dash kit either. Later on based on an email, they said that the kit only includes basic install parts and they were upgraded parts, so they didn’t ship them. I got this shipped this week and wanted to be able to install it this weekend so I went out to look for the parts. Went to one Best Buy, got the XM Adaptor (GEX-P920XM) and the iPod Cable (CD-i200), but it took going to another Best Buy, and 2 other electronics stores to get the correct harness (70-5521). I then purchased the dash kit at Circuit City (95-5812). They were $20 each…with shipping, Crutchfield would’ve cost as much and I would’ve had to wait to get it shipped.

    Installation:

    Parts List:
    Pioneer Avic-D3
    XM Adapter (GEX-P920XM)
    iPod Adapter (CD-i200)
    Wiring Harness (Metra Part # 70-5521) *If you don’t have Shaker 500 you use #70-5520
    Dash Kit (Metra Part #95-5812)
    5V Fixed Voltage Regulator (Model 7805 from Radioshack) *Will mention later

    Tools List:
    Wire Clippers/Strippers
    Soldering Iron/Solder (Could just crimp the wires together
    Pack of heat-shrink from Radioshack (You could wrap everything in tape)
    Hairdryer
    Trim Removal Tool… (Not necessary but helpful)

    Harness:

    Since I wasted half the day getting all the parts, I didn’t end up starting until close to 3:00 in the afternoon. So I only planned on doing the harness because it gets dark quick and I didn’t want to have a half finished car.

    The parts you will now have in front of you to make the harness are 2 from Pioneer, and 2 from Metra. The Metra Harness plugs into the existing ford harness such that you do not have do any work behind the dash other than plugging in. You can also take it out in the future if you please. Each harness has colors coming out of each that must be attached to the corresponding one on the other. I then made a spreadsheet of the colors to cross reference them from the Metra Harness to the Pioneer one. I was relieved that most were exactly the same color.

    The first thing I did when putting it together was soldering together the main stuff, none of the tricky parts, just doing color to color. Make sure if you are going to use heat-shrink, to slide it on prior to twisting the wires together and soldering (made this mistake once or twice, had to use tape over the connections. Once you are done soldering, use the blow dryer to melt the heat shrink to the connection.

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    Bypass:

    After this was done I did the bypass mod, which allows you to watch DVD’s while in motion as well as changing your navigation route. (I do not encourage watching DVD’s while driving, but having it is very helpful for the navigation)

    1. Remove the Yellow/Black Mute Wire from the white Pioneer Harness. (You do this buy using a small screwdriver to pull up on the tab for that pin, and pull it out. You will then have to put it in the spot directly above it, but remember to turn it around so the flat part is facing out (mimic how you took it out))
    2. Then you must ground that wire, as well as the Light Green Parking Brake Switch Cable. The Way I did this was make a large ground bundle containing those 2 wires, as well as the 2 black wires from the different harnesses, and the ground for the voltage regulator (check below) As an extra ground, I added the excess ground wire from the pioneer harness to it which has a spot for it to be screwed in (Not Necessary)

    [​IMG]

    For more pictures, check out Necro’s Flash Tutorial: http://www.avic411.com/D3Bypass/album0.html

    Grounded Wire Cluster
    [​IMG]


    Voltage Regulator (Shaker 500 Only):

    This is needed because the Ford Amplifiers in the Shaker 500 system require only a 5V turn on signal; however the Avic-D3 puts out 12V. This causes a popping sound to be heard every time the car starts up.

    To fix this, you must put this regulator (7805 from Radioshack) in between the Blue/White System Remote Control output from the white Pioneer Harness (input) and the 2 Blue/White wires from the small Metra Harness (both go to the output) The middle of the regulator is for the ground. To make this easier, I took 3 pieces of the parking brake leftover wire and attached those to the Regulator, then to the other leads.

    [​IMG]

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    RCA Cables (Shaker 500 Only):

    When attaching the 2 RCA Cables that come out of the smaller Metra harness, you simply attach the red and white into the red and white on the pioneer subwoofer out of the harness.

    Wiring/Mounting/etc…

    **Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal Prior to touching any wires in the car

    The Mess:
    [​IMG]

    Dash Removal:
    To remove the dash, you must open up the cubby box in the center console, and unscrew 2 Phillips head screws. Then simply unclip the shift boot (trim ring on automatics), and then pull up until it unsnaps. It may take some working to get it past the emergency brake.
    Next step is to remove the 2 sail panels on either side of the dash board. (Pull away from dash)
    Next, using a 9/32 socket screwdriver, unscrew 6? Screws down the side of the dash piece, and pull that out slowly, while reaching behind and unplugging all the connections. I wasn’t able to get one of the AC controls off (right side) and just ended up leaving it plugged in and swinging the piece around and have it hang there.
    To remove the radio, you have just 4 more 9/32 screws to remove and then pull out; remove the wires and you’re done.
    After I finished this I plugged in the Pioneer just to see if everything was functioning properly and my harness was made correctly.

    [​IMG]

    Navigation/XM Antenna Wiring:
    This was probably the hardest, most tedious part of the install. Many people have mounted the Navigation antenna underneath the dash, but because I had to run the XM antenna as well, I wanted to leave them both together and it seems like it would be easier for it to receive signal in the back.
    To get the rear shelf out, you must remove a lot of stuff …..
    First you must take out the lower rear seat bottom…you do this by pushing in on 2? Clips underneath it and pulling upward, fairly simple.
    Next, remove the 2 door sill plates by pulling up on them (there is some DS tape holding parts of it on, not too strong.)
    Then remove the 2 ¾ panels that are next to each seat. There are 3 tree-type pins holding them on…these require getting under them with a pair of needle nose pliers (or trim removal tool) and pulling them out. 1 is located underneath the seat part of it, and 2 more by the opening from the seat backs folding down then from there you just remove those 2 panels, and just slide out the rear deck.

    To mount the antennas, I just put them on the supplied square metal pad, and then pinched the wires against the back of the tray when sliding it back in. (There is adhesive underneath the metal pad as well)
    To get the antennas to the front, there is a huge clump of wires that runs down from the back all the way through the sill plates. Just use wire ties to hold the antennas to it, and your fine. Due to a short length of wiring, or at least to give my self some spare length. I cut underneath the passenger’s carpeting to the dash.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Mounting XM Box:
    I originally was going to mount this box on top of the head-unit; however, they supply you with a very long thick IPBus Cable which when scrunched back there, takes up a lot of space and I could not push the Avic back in.
    I then decided to pull the carpet back on the floor of the passenger’s side, up by the firewall. There is some insulation behind there that I squeezed it between there and the carpet, and it stays nicely and there is no hard surface for it to rattle either. I then used tie-wraps to hold the IPBus, Antenna, and Power Cables, to another set of wires running from the dash towards the XM Receiver box…how convenient.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Running iPod Cable:
    Since the center console had to be removed already, I ran the wire up there to the box in the middle. There is a little plate in there directly behind the Emergency brake. This pops right out. I then took a drill and made a semicircle on the bottom of it for the cable to come through. There is a clump of wires running through there as well, so just cable tie the cable to that clump, to keep it out of the way of the gearshift.

    [​IMG]

    Putting in the Head-unit :
    First you need to attach the Metra Dash Kit. You basically just clip the pieces together, and then screw it into the side of the Pioneer (screws supplied by them). There was a big problem though that the directions do not state. There are 2 tabs sticking out of the side in the back, the radio would not go in for me with these attached. So I cut off that un-needed section.

    Now is the best part…plugging it in. After running all the wires, I was so happy that everything plugs in click click, and you are basically done. You then just have to slide it in, screw it in and then put everything back as it was.

    Some In-use Photos Courtesy of 1965 Coupe:
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    **When “Shaker 500 Only” is mentioned, it is meant to be not for the non-upgraded stock head-unit. I am unsure of use on the Shaker 1000, and what other specifics may need to be done.
    **References and Pictures that helped me install/write this post come from Avic 411, 1965 Coupe, Necro, SatinSilverStang, MustangSourceForums and Tacobill -Thank You
    #1
  2. emanstang

    emanstang New Member

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    Thanks

    I bought a 2006 GT with an after market stero but the woofers were not connected. I bought the harness and the regulator and installed them per the instructions. The stereo now sounds awesome. This posting rocks!

    Thanks!
    #2
  3. Hoboattacker

    Hoboattacker New Member

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    Does it have HD Radio capabilities?
    #3
  4. 1965coupe

    1965coupe Member

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    Unfortunately, the D3 is not HD-ready.


    Ok for me though.. there are only about 5 HD channels in my area.. :notnice:
    #4
  5. borgeklungerbo

    borgeklungerbo New Member

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    Do you still have the spreadsheet? Because i have no clue what wires to sold together.. but i still want to do this on my own.
    #5
  6. sfcadams

    sfcadams Member

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    1965Coupe,

    Sent you a Pm reference your spreadsheet. I could use this as well if you don't mind.

    Thanks
    #6
  7. kendoo130

    kendoo130 Founding Member

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  8. sfcadams

    sfcadams Member

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    Short of going through every link on that website, can someone point me to where a spreadsheet might be?
    #8
  9. sfcadams

    sfcadams Member

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    ok, got the Avic D3 in however I can't get the factory antenna to plug in. Looks like I need some kind of adapter. Can anyone recommend which one I need? Make and part # would be great! My car is a 2008 Mustang GT.

    Thanks in advance
    #9
  10. sfcadams

    sfcadams Member

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    Disregard the above post. I found an antenna adaptor. I did the resistor mod as mentioned above but I am still getting a pop at turn-off of the car. Anyone have any suggestions to cure this?

    Thanks in advance.
    #10
  11. bradleyem

    bradleyem Member

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    I just picked up an AVIC-D3 for $250 :nice:

    The install was pretty easy, but I had a hard time finding info on a few of the connections.

    There are 3 connections for the AVIC that you can't get from the stock wiring harness.

    Illumination - the illumination terminal on the radio harness will not work. I tried both the +ILLUMINATION and -ILLUMINATION wires....no luck. I ended up getting this signal from the Smart Junction Box, Connector C2280b (Small connector on the FRONT) Pin 6 (Yellow/Light Blue).

    Reverse - of coures there is no reverse signal for the stock radio....I got this from the Smart Junction Box, Connector 2280d (4th Connector from the top on the REAR of the box) Pin 13 (White/Yellow).

    Speed sensing (VSS) - The VSS terminal on the radio harness does not work for this either. I had to run a wire into the engine compartment and get it from connector C175t (Top plug on the PCM), Pin 3 (Blue/Yellow).

    The 5 volt regulator mod works great for the skipper 500 amps.
    #11
  12. bradleyem

    bradleyem Member

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    And my custom backgrounds:

    Loading Splashscreen:

    [​IMG]

    AV Background:

    [​IMG]

    NAV Background (unfortunately you can't really see this one very well on the unit because it's always covered by a map or menus:

    [​IMG]


    ** I take no credit for the creation of the sweet backgrounds.....I shamelessly pirated them from AVIC411.com **
    #12
  13. 91LX302

    91LX302 Founding Member

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    Is that the same wiring harness and voltage regulator you need for the Shaker 1000? I already have a head unit with ipod control (pioneer) and it's driving me crazy not having it!
    #13
  14. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 Straight Outta Locash Super Mod

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    Neat Splash Scene and Backgrounds. Wonder how I do that with my Alpine INA W900?
    #14
  15. Brandon Hosek

    Brandon Hosek New Member

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    When installing the voltage regulator in the Shaker 500 system with Metra 70-5521 Harness:

    1) If I wire the blue&white remote wire from my aftermarket deck to the left prong, a ground wire to the middle prong, and both blue&white remote wires from the small (sub/rca) interface on the metra 70-5521 then what do I do with the blue&white system remote wire from the large wire cluster on the metra 70-5521

    2) Can I connect the ground wire on my aftermarket deck, the ground wire from the metra 70-5521 large wire cluster, and the ground wire I add to the middle prong of the voltage regulator together to make a ground cluster that will function properly? I don't have to ground anywhere to the actual body of the car do I?

    THX
    #15

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