I'm looking at a car. it has some rust holes on it. but the guy got the car running pretty good and it feels like a good car. interior is partly redone. this is my big question. are all fast backs mach 1? its been repainted but still has rust in places like the door jam, in front of the rear wheel. and in back. passenger door doesn't line up and needs to be lifted slightly to close. sure it can be re aligned somehow. it was someone's project before this guy bought it but now needs to sell it. he got it not running a month ago and now it runs. my second question is that is there any reliable sites that can teach me about the car before i buy it? like how to match numbers and things to look for in this 73. that will help me make an informed decision. i go to finish the deal today. are all fast backs Mach 1? what to look for? what to stay away from?
Not all fastbacks are mach 1's, thats not a mach 1 front grille, and the rear valance doesn't look right either (should have recesses for exhaust tips, although mine is a mach 1 and doesn't have it). 1973 Mustang This will help you decode the vin to see what it is. As for the door, it's probably just the hinges sagging. Pretty much expected from a 37 year old car. Check if the cowl panel is leaking, pour a decent amount of water onto the windshield and see if it leaks through the dash. It might not come out until you drive around and hit a sharp turn.
awe man thanks alot. i'll try that water thing. it does have rust. can't tell by the pictures. but there is some unfinished repairs with rust and grinding and cutting out patches of body. wish i had my camera to take pictures of it. more and more i hear about it. the less and less i think this is a good buy.
Not all Fastbacks (Sportsroofs) are Mach 1's. You can check the VIN to see if it's a Mach, it will start 3F05, 3 for 1973, F for Ford, and 05 is the code for Mach 1. The next letter will either be Q for a 4V Cleveland or H for a 2V clevo. Here's a link to a VIN decoder. The Mustang Shop VIN and Dataplate Decoder
I candy, I'm sure that you're aware that even though you live in paradise (for humans), it ain't no paradise for cars. That nice moist, SALTY, ocean breeze that makes for a comfortable climate wreaks havoc in the seams of uni-body sheet metal. If that car has spent any amount of time on that island, it is likely to have cancerous rust in places that you didn't even know were places. Unless, of course, it was religiously garaged and cared for, which it sounds like it was not. Look for cancer in the usual spots, rear spring mount areas, floors, around shock towers/inner fenders, all suspension mounting points, inner rocker panels and front/rear door pillars. If rusted and you're not scared by sheet metal work/welding and the price is right, go for it. If you don't have those skills, RUN or have a deep wallet. Just my $.02 Gene
i called the guy and am going to pass on it VIN (Warrenty Number) Breakdown: 3 = 1973 F = Dearborn, MI 02 = Fastback/Sportsroof H = 351-2v Ram Air its not a mach. unless someone can justify 6 grand for a sportsroof, change of color, and rust. it does have new suspension, a arms, leaf supports?? interior with new panels.
No. That is a lot of money for a car with no pedigree, soft resale value compared to many other model Mustangs, and lots of rust. Run from rust.
You can share whatever you want. If you really think you can dis the original design that sold so many cars and started the legend, so be it. But i would put money on the fact that after 71 the mustang was not that great. It didnt make a come back till at least 79. Hell, there wasnt a muscle car out there that I would touch with a stick during that time. I mean, seriously? http://www.edu.pe.ca/sourishigh/Pages/Cmp5-05/Mills/Webpage/Pictures/1977/3-1977FordMustang.jpg
To each his own. The world would be pretty darn boring if we all drove 67 fastback Eleanor clones. Personally, I never cared for the 1970, but that’s just me – hence I don’t own one. You know what they say: “They’re all just phallic symbols anyway”. Mine just happens to be bigger than yours. But I digress; you probably go faster than me. As to the OPs questions: Mach or not a Mach hardly matters unless you’re building a show car. Replace the grille; add a Ram Air Hood and a rear wing spoiler and the car takes on a whole different attitude. I’m sure prices in Honolulu are a bit different than the mainland. In my neck of the woods you don’t get much car of any vintage for $6,000. Just be aware that some parts are still not available for 71-73. Most notably, the cowl, which is easily inspected by removing the plastic snap in grates at the base of the windshield (under the hood). Obviously rust anywhere is undesirable, but some areas are worse than others like: the torq boxes, frame rails, windshield channels, rear fender lips… Inspect the tail light panel closely right around the tail lights and the interior of the trunk where the taillight panel meets the trunk floor. Heck, if you’re really interested, take it to a pro and have them inspect it for you.
Great post! I just received an offer on a '73 mach 1 that needs resto. I am going to look at it tomorrow, I will check the vin now that I know what to look for, it is a 73 supposed to be a mach 1 302 w/ac runs but has been sitting for at least 3 years... they are asking 3 grand obo...
The car will carry a premium...as all cars of that age do on the Island because of the cost to get one from the main land out to you.
weird that the hood on it currently isn't correct, and if it was a true Ram Air wouldn't the car have the Ram Air plenum and intake under the hood that go with the scooped hood ??? those alone are high ticket, hard to come by items...
People who are new to these cars are fooled by the term "Ram Air". The 351C without the Ram Air hood, plenum and air cleaner, have an odd twisted plastic box that directs air from the front of the car, under the battery tray, to the air cleaner snorkel. Though this does force air into the air cleaner, it's not what is commonly defined as "Ram Air".
