Post pics of mustang II front ends

Discussion in 'Classic Mustangs' started by 1sick65, Oct 2, 2009.

  1. wicked93gs New Member

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    I would, but I have 2" drop spindles, so that measurement might not do you much good
  2. Volvo Heretic New Member

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    That would be fine, the ball joint distance should be the same, stock spindle or dropped. Just guess where you think the actual ball joint pivot point is.:)

    If this works, I will cut my bolt on cross member in half, and widen it 4.5" spacing the lower control arm inner pivots from 20" to 24.5" which is(I read somewere) the width of a later model(sn95?) Mustang's quick ratio rack & pinion inner tie rods. Then I will also have the right width to bolt on a set of Mustang 9x17 wheels with 275/40-17 tires along with a Wilwood larger brake kit.

    Also weld in an Explorer 8.8 rear end with 17X10.5 wheels with 315/35-17 tires.

    And twin rear mount mitsubishi 13c td04 turbos.
  3. wicked93gs New Member

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    I'll be heading out to work on my mustang tomorrow...I'll get the measurement then(with a tape measure, so its not super accurate) but I have to ask...13cs are rather small(smaller than a t25?) what engine are you using?
  4. Volvo Heretic New Member

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    Thanks, wicked93gs, that would great, how about also measuring your spindle height?

    This thing has a 3 liter overhead valve, early fuel injected straight six that I stuffed into the 4 banger engine compartment 30 years ago. I could make room for a T3T04E, but I have no room for an intercooler, so since this car has true duel exhaust, I was going to put two 13c's in the trunk with their own oil sump, pump and cooler w/ fan. The two 13c's should be about the right size for 1500cc each, maybe a little big for quick spooling, but from what I've been told, once they get going, 400HP should be possible (I know next to nothing about turbocharging). Plus the price for the 13c's is about right (cheep):D.

    I apologize for the thread jack.

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