Prob with GF's POS .... **PICS**

Discussion in 'Other Auto Tech' started by BigHairyMonkey, Apr 11, 2007.


  1. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    Ok heres the deal. The lady drives a 96 saturn SL1 1.9 DOHC AUTO. About a month ago the car started acting funny, real harsh starts (when it did start). Now we got to the point where the car would start only if it was let to sit for a couple of hours (like mornings) but if you went for a drive and turned it off. No dice. Even when it does start it chug chug chugs... building from like 200rpm and requiring a full foot of throttle. We take the car to a shop cause i dont know **** about saturns they keep it for a week checking this and that, then tell us its leaking fuel injectors and when the car shuts off it leaks a bit on top of the pistons preventing a good start. Sounds reasonable enough, thank you very much, get the car back from them i order the injectors, and install them yesterday. Now car wont turn over at all. I got it to start for a split second an it dies once again. WTF. Maybe its cause of fouled plugs from the injectors, so i go get new plugs throw em.. still nothing. Im outa ideas, could it be a bad fuel pressure regulator? If you look at one of the pics the fpr looks to be leaking gas onto the fuel rail abit... hmm any ideas will do i gotta get this piece running; i cant stand driving her to work every morning:nonono: sorry for the life story here are some pics : (remember these plugs were replaced AT THE SHOP before i got the car back and have maybe a 100 miles on them, i pulled them after replacing the injectors)

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    fuel rail (worthless pic)
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    can see a little wetness below the FPR
    [​IMG]
     
    #1
  2. fivespeedsteed

    fivespeedsteed Active Member

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    hmm... you got me there. sounds more like an electrical problem than something normal. try cleaning stuff like the MAF and TB. then id get some new plugs and check timing...? wait till someone better chimes in..

    edit. the reason i say timing is becasue if the plugs are in order laid out as they are in the engine, then the outer two plugs are black and the middle to arent. 4 bangers usually fire outer 2 then inner 2. meaning cyl's 1 and 4 then 2 and 3. just a thought....
     
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  3. poneypower89

    poneypower89 Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t

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    Lol, dude... what did I tell you like three days ago?
     
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  4. fivespeedsteed

    fivespeedsteed Active Member

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  5. poneypower89

    poneypower89 Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t

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    hahaha, no mang.. The bigharryballs dude :rolleyes:
     
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  6. fivespeedsteed

    fivespeedsteed Active Member

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    oh.

    sorry i been drugged up b.c. of surgery and making allot of posts. allot of people are gettin annoyed with me....

    percocets for the winnn
     
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  7. Mustang78

    Mustang78 New Member

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    coolant temp sensor?

    ~Mark~
     
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  8. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    i know, its ****ing ridiculous, i just want it to start once so i can back it the **** outa the garage and outa my life
     
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  9. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    their not in order lol, but thanks:p
     
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  10. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    oh and there is no MAF its MAP.
     
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  11. poneypower89

    poneypower89 Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t

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    Ok... so you have replaced the injectors.

    This is a no-start problem... so we are looking at either spark or fuel.

    You are suspecting maybe a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

    I would first check the spark power coming from those plugs. If they are strong enough they will easily foul.

    The saturns are known for coil pack failure as well as bad grounds. I personally had a dying/bad start problem and it turned out to be the ground that connects the battery to the fuse box... AT the fuse box location.

    Also, consider the CPS (crank position sensor). It tells the puter when to fire the plugs.. they are known to go kaput sometimes which would result in really bad timming.. making u sometimes run/start and sometimes not.

    Just some ideas for you man.
     
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  12. poneypower89

    poneypower89 Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t

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    this is also a bad problem with saturns... they crack and lead to absolutely HORRIBLE running/starting problems.
     
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  13. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    is that the same sensor as the ones telling the fans to cut on and off cause i just replaced that one not a little while ago
     
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  14. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    thanks, ill check the grounds, no way to check if its the CPS huh? except by throwin money at it
     
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  15. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    ok i went through everything again... checked the shrader valve.. NO PRESSURE with key on car off... so that means its not gettin any fuel. So the culprit is the FPR right?
     
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  16. Darkwriter77

    Darkwriter77 Resident Ranting Negative Nancy

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    As stated, the problem is likely electrical - it's only appearing to get too much fuel because it's not doing anything with the fuel that it IS getting, already (no spark, or not enough).

    Start with the simple stuff. You've already pulled the plugs - DITCH THE BOSCH PLATINUMS. Those things have a tiny little thread of an electrode to begin with and are easily fouled out - pick up a set of AC Delcos (even if they're plain ol' coppers) and replace 'em while you've got those out.

    Secondly, the coil packs can be tested. Take 'em on down to an Autozone. They've got a book (unless they've lost it, heh) with specs on how many ohms they should read with a multimeter, and charts showing which terminals to touch the multimeter leads onto. If you get high ohm readings, or no continuity at all, that's your problem right there. I'm not sure if Saturns use the same ignition control module base like a lot of other GM cars do (a-la Grand Ams and such), but if it's the kind that the coil packs plug directly onto, you can take that in and have that tested, as well. Have them test the module SEVERAL TIMES - sometimes it can pass a few times, but when it heats up (such as the problem you were having with having to rely upon cold starts to get it running), the problem only then rears its head.

    You could ghetto-test the plugs/wires and all by having someone crank the motor while you've got the plugs out and laid on the block or some kinda ground (DO NOT HOLD THEM IN YOUR HAND, fer cryin' out loud! :D ), and see if you're getting spark to all four plugs. This is best done at night, or at least in a relatively dark setting so the spark is easier to see, but you can usually hear it even when you can't see it.

    If none of those things yield any answers, you're gonna hafta start pulling sensors and getting really friendly with the ol' mutlimeter. A Chilton manual usually gives specs and how-to's on testing most sensors like temp sensors and such. Just don't go buying sensors right and left and playing the process of elimination game that way - trust me, I've been there, done that, and it's damn expensive (and humiliating, when it turns out to be some $5 part after you've blown $200 on others that did nothing). :)
     
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  17. BigHairyMonkey

    BigHairyMonkey Founding Member

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    thnks, ive already tested the spark on the block and it looks real healthy, changed the plugs for autolites, still nothing.
     
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  18. Jinx

    Jinx I like cats. Cats like me. Cats & I fully agree Cat Lover

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    Just want to throw this out there....

    My wife used to own a Saturn. It had some of the same problems, but her's turned out to be electrical (bad alternator). In your case, have you checked to see if the fuel filter is clogged? Also, can you hear the fuel pump spool up and pressurize the system? Those may be 2 things you want to consider also.

    Good luck :nice:
     
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