Trying to finish up the 4-wheel DB swap on my car.
A little back ground, I am using a 2003 Cobra setup on the front and rear. 99-04 V-6 Master Cylinder.
Option 1) A Disc/Drum proportioning valve off a late 60's Early 70's Fairlane/Torino. Number off of valve D00A 2B328 D X
Option 2) A Drum/Drum proportioning valve off a 70 Mustang Coupe Number off of valve D0 A-2B257
Option 3) Just use a "T" to go from the Master to the front brake lines. Then a short peice of line to make up the difference between the old rear line and the master.
Option 4) The valve from the 99-04 V-6, this would require me finding adapters though and possibly having to modify the lines. (My least favorite out of the options.)
All options except #4 I will be using a Wilwood proportioning valve inline for the rear brakes.
Option 1 seems like a direct bolt in, but not sure how this valve differs from the mustang valve.
Option 2 I have some interest in knowing if it would work would need to drill different hole in the apron to mount it. Looks very simuliar to the first valve, for the fronts a input and two outputs to feed the fronts. One rear in and one out.
Option 3 there would be no way to attach the "T" to the apron. I would also have no internal valve to block the fluid incase of a blown line.
A little back ground, I am using a 2003 Cobra setup on the front and rear. 99-04 V-6 Master Cylinder.
Option 1) A Disc/Drum proportioning valve off a late 60's Early 70's Fairlane/Torino. Number off of valve D00A 2B328 D X
Option 2) A Drum/Drum proportioning valve off a 70 Mustang Coupe Number off of valve D0 A-2B257
Option 3) Just use a "T" to go from the Master to the front brake lines. Then a short peice of line to make up the difference between the old rear line and the master.
Option 4) The valve from the 99-04 V-6, this would require me finding adapters though and possibly having to modify the lines. (My least favorite out of the options.)
All options except #4 I will be using a Wilwood proportioning valve inline for the rear brakes.
Option 1 seems like a direct bolt in, but not sure how this valve differs from the mustang valve.
Option 2 I have some interest in knowing if it would work would need to drill different hole in the apron to mount it. Looks very simuliar to the first valve, for the fronts a input and two outputs to feed the fronts. One rear in and one out.
Option 3 there would be no way to attach the "T" to the apron. I would also have no internal valve to block the fluid incase of a blown line.