Questions about 1991 Mustang N/A

[SlayerEC]

Hi,

My friend is selling me his 1991 Mustang LX. It has a 2.3L N/A, with only 23000 miles on it, and the car itself only has 113k. The ball joints and suspension has been recently replaced (With engine I believe) and its has $1000 worth of Tires and Rims on it. And for only $2100, is that a good deal?

Anyways,

I want to buy it AND the engine his dad has for it. The one his dad has is a turbo, and he'll sell it for only $400 ( The whole thing ) I dont know what condition it is in, but over the summer im gonna tear it down and rebuild it, port and polish the head, gut upper intake and port the lower. For the exhaust I was thinking 2.5" or maybe 3" with a FlowMaster 40 Muffler ( Cause I guess thats what everyone uses and I know it will work ) and a high flow Cat. For on top I plan on a K&N Air Filter and Cold Air Intake, 35lb/hr injectors.

This is my first car Im really gonna mod and I noticed that people take Volvo Intercoolers and ranger radiators and slap them in. Guess im not used to 'cross breeding' parts

Thats basically all I can think of right now, I know there is lots more to think about, but Im new to Inline 4's and turbos . . . and fords The only truck I have modded is my 1972 Fleetside LongBox Chevy truck with a 350, full Edelbrock intake, ported and polished, being pushed through Dynomax Cryamic headers and 3" exhaust with a random muffler I ripped out of my dads old Dodge I was out of money and it fit, so yeah

And, is it true you can get regulators that you can adjust while driving to change the amount of PSI your Turbo is putting out ? Because thats kinda cool, no reason in runnig hella PSI if you just going to work and back

Any tips and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated, I can fit everyhtign I know about Ford and Turbo egnines in the palm of my hand.

SlayerEC


Oh yeah, I was also thinking I would go with a 3.73 Rear end, but should I go with 7.5" or 8.8" ? I found a website with both, so I need to find out what the difference would be.

 

[SlayerEC]

Ok, I looked around about the rear end.

Tell me if im right on this.

With the power ill be putting through a 7.5" rear end with 3.73 gears I will need Trac Loc, or else ill be doin hella damage ? During burnouts, which Ill do my fair share of

And the 8.8 will be heavier, but If I have to power to support more weight should I go with it ? And they say IT is heavier, the axles and stuff will still weigh the same, so i dont have to orry about rotational mass should I ?

Thanks

 

[mr_woodster]

Welcome to the 2.3 world... turbo motor is a good idea becuase the 2.3 n/a is a leadsled (unless you add n2o!). rear end, dont even worry about right now, that 7.5 open will be fine untill you start putting down some decent power. Yes they have cabin boost controllers, everything from vaccum to electronic, just depends on what kind of GREEN you like to spend.

some 2.3 info for you
1991 2.3 naturaly asspirated = 105 hp stock

1991-93 2.3 mustangs came with a roller cam and followers (nice!)
1991-93 2.3 mustangs were mass air and DIS (no distrubtor)

2.3 Turbo motor was rated at 175-205hp (depending on year/car) it can be easily/cheaply moded to about 250-275 hp without even pulling the valve cover.

Since your car and the turbo motor are EFI setups, you will hafta do some wiring/computer changes when you swap in the turbo setup...not to difficult,and there are quite a few 'walk-through' tourtorials out there (check out stingers site <a href=http://projecthp.ford23.com/index.html> here </a href> )

Also is this stang a 5 speed or auto? im guessing auto becuase you said it has 3:73's ...if it is auto, chuck that waste of alloy into the junk pile and swap in a T-5 when/ before you swap in your turbo motor, that a4ld auto will blow to pieces.

Save yourself the money, stay away from flowmasters, they will not go well witha turbo setup (as they are not highflow). Turbo Exhuast = bigger is better, 3in down pipe to 3 inch all the way back or a Y-pipe with 2.5 duals all the way back, doesnt really matter , just keep in mind Big=better when it comes to turbo exhuast.

35lb injectors came on 86.5-88 turbo coupes , they are "brown tops" (they may have come on merkurs aswell....) they are best run with a "big-vam" setup...fyi a vam is like a mass air unit ( like the stoneage massair) . You can find a Big vam on 87-88 turbo coupes , this is a very good upgrade from the mini-vam on pretty much everything else.

Intercooler , yes alot of people go for the cheap junkyard pull (volvo front mount intercooler, found on pretty much all volvo turbo charged vehicles). Yes you will need to deal with the radiator if you go this route, the end tanks wont fit around the stock stang raditor. Im using a SAAB 9000 intercooler, pretty much the same as the volvo just a little wider is all. (fyi: intercooler allows the compressed air comming from the turbo to pass through it, cooling the compressed air off before it enters the motor, therefore allowing you to make more HP with cooler condensed air, and avoiding pre-detonation...allowing more boost, safely.)

for now my fingers are tired, so i hope this is a good start, i think you should have both hands full with your newly aquired 2.3 knowledge.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Ok, I looked around about the rear end.

Tell me if im right on this.

With the power ill be putting through a 7.5" rear end with 3.73 gears I will need Trac Loc, or else ill be doin hella damage ? During burnouts, which Ill do my fair share of

And the 8.8 will be heavier, but If I have to power to support more weight should I go with it ? And they say IT is heavier, the axles and stuff will still weigh the same, so i dont have to orry about rotational mass should I ?

Thanks

The 7.5 will take a small beating so I was use it for now untill you start haveing traction problems after your turbo swap. One you decide on a Trac Lock you should be able to bolt in without mods a 7.5 out of a 83-86 TC. Its a drum brake rear end but like I said should just bolt in place. Now most people just go for the 8.8 rear end with rear disc from a 87-88 TC. Check out these sites they helped me a lot also.

http://www.4obob.com/ ( click on FAQ its got some cool facts on stuff that came on what years)

(I can't get Stingers site up so maybe someone else can help you on that one.)


http://www.turboford.org/index.shtml

Hope it helps.

 

[SlayerEC]

Ok, let me try to get this all correct *reads again, and again and again* Lol, lots of info to take in.

First off, its 5 speed If it was an auto I prolly would have gone with the 5.0 he has for sale.

Second, I plan on staying with the stock gearing until I get the new engine installed, becuase Ill be running a stock N/A until I get the Turbo rebuilt, good deal, can drive the car while working on the engine and install it over a weekend I hope

Basically I want to get power to play with, but something not so high I have to . . . nah, more is better

Anyways, I think im gonna go with the 3" with Ypipe to the dual pipes, it lookes hella cooler. Im willing to spend just about al the money I make this summer, which will be over $4000 on the engine, so basicall yim willing to do whatever I have to do to get it the way I want.

 

[SlayerEC]

Oh yeah, thanks alot for the info, anything else to add would be appreciated from anyone.

 

[91_4ourBanger]

personally id get the 5.0, it has MORE aftermarket, and theres nothing like the sound of a v8 with 300 stock ft lbs of torque. plus you wouldnt have to go through all the trouble with installing the turbo etc...

 

[Cougar]

personally id get the 5.0, it has MORE aftermarket, and theres nothing like the sound of a v8 with 300 stock ft lbs of torque. plus you wouldnt have to go through all the trouble with installing the turbo etc...

The trouble of a turbo swap doesn't even begin to compare to the trouble of doing a V8 swap.

 

[SlayerEC]

I dunno, Id much rather be able to go "HAH! I kicked you ass with a 4 CYLINDER !' Then be like "Yeah, its stock . . . " So much more prestige with the 4 Cylinder, plus, better Mileage, prolly last longer too.

Not saying 5.0s are bad, I just prefer the 2,3L . . each to his own.

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

Throw that gas mileage out the window when you start modding a turbo engine.

 

[Papa Georgio]

"SlayerEC I dunno, Id much rather be able to go "HAH! I kicked you ass with a 4 CYLINDER !' Then be like "Yeah, its stock . . . " So much more prestige with the 4 Cylinder, plus, better Mileage, prolly last longer too.

Not saying 5.0s are bad, I just prefer the 2,3L . . each to his own. " -Amen Man

There is nothing like a 2.3 that sounds like a 5.0, kicks a 5.0's ass, and gets better mileage then a 5.0 (not much but still reasonably better). Go with the 2.3 and you will be happy with it when your done. The way to make a kick ass sleeper is through a 2.3 also, 5.0's do the job but all have the distinct sound and stance that cops cant seem to miss. Thanks just my 0.02 anyways, Pg

 

[91_4ourBanger]

The trouble of a turbo swap doesn't even begin to compare to the trouble of doing a V8 swap.

i meant just buy a car with a 5.0 already in it so that way you wont even have to do a swap...the only problem is finding a low mileage one in good condition, but thoe 5.0s last forever almost.

 

[Cougar]

i meant just buy a car with a 5.0 already in it so that way you wont even have to do a swap...the only problem is finding a low mileage one in good condition, but thoe 5.0s last forever almost.

True, but here, 5.0's cost too much.

 

[Asha'man]

And there's the cost of insurance on a 5.0, which for most of us here (young males) is already somewhat high....on a V8 Mustang it's astronomical.

I mainly like the fact that it's not another me-too 5.0 with Flowmasters....get a little different source of power and sound coming from the awesome Fox body and it's all good.

Ash

 

[Stinger]

Throw that gas mileage out the window when you start modding a turbo engine.

Where'd you get that info from Wherever it was they aren't right

Im willing to spend just about al the money I make this summer, which will be over $4000 on the engine, so basicall yim willing to do whatever I have to do to get it the way I want.

I see no reason that you should have to spend even half that much. The FIRST thing you need to do before you start spending money on it is to decide WHAT exactly you do want out of it. Whether it be a HP, 1/4 mile time, trap speed, etc. You need a goal for it. Then we can tell you what you need to get there.

And, is it true you can get regulators that you can adjust while driving to change the amount of PSI your Turbo is putting out ? Because thats kinda cool, no reason in runnig hella PSI if you just going to work and back

Yes, you can. Oddly enough though you don't HAVE to run ANY boost when going to work. Turbos aren't like supercharges where they are always running boost. When just cruising around town or down the highway you don't run any boost. You'll learn there is no need to turn it down, you can adjust the pressure with your right foot.

Oh, and Flowmasters aren't THAT bad...maybe a 5hp drop over a stright through. Nothing to worry about IMO.

Stinger

 

[yellow5.0cobra]

What do you mean they werent right?

Add 10+ lbs of boost, raise fuel pressure, go into boost a lot(because now you are power happy), there goes your gas mileage!


Im gonna be nice and let this one go.

 

[Stinger]

OR raise 10+ lbs of boost, DON'T get into boost all the time (because if you are concerned about gas mileage you won't ) or even LOWER base fuel pressure to get the a/f curve right (as I had to do...I'm running 36psi base) and suddenly you get as good of gas mileage or BETTER because the motor is more efficient (because of porting, exhaust, K&N, etc.).

Hell, I'm getting an average of 26mpg right now and I could get a few more mpg if I would be easier on it when city driving.

Stinger

 

[SlayerEC]

Exactly what I want ?

Welllll, I dont plan on racing it at the track, perhaps off a little bit. I just want something with enough power to get me where im going fast and then some. Not looking to blow the doors off everyhting I pass. Id be happy to be able to keep up with my friends stock 88 ( Or 89, cant remember ) 5.0.

A quick launch too, the top end is important too, but I wont be doing daily driving at a buck twenty.

 

[Stinger]

Sounds like all you need is a stock motor with 3" exhaust, a K&N filter, and ~18psi. That will be as fast or faster than your buddies 5.0. Top out around 135mph, and get up and go when you want to.

Stock T3 turbo, stock 35lb injectors, stock large air meter, etc.

The fast launch is up to your ability to drive and your tires.

Stinger

 

[SlayerEC]

Sweet, thanks alot Stinger, youve been a GREAT help, nice website also, I do freelance graphic design, if you ever need anything, just ask.

Thanks to everyone else too . . . Woodster, Hawk etc etc and so on and etc and stuff.