Questions On Wet Shot/ Advancing Cam?

[Alex Kraczek]

Well hello everybody, long time no talk...

last time I posted, I was inquiring about track times on my car. It ended up going pretty damn slow, so I slapped on a set of GT40 heads....

Shortly after the initial test drive, I spun a rod bearing.
Not sure why, but oh well. its being pulled out soon. The motor already had low oil pressure,
assuming the motor just couldnt hang anymore.

My ultimate question is this-
I already have another shortblock that is .030 over with stock pistons, rods, etc.
I am going to swap my B cam over from my old motor into this one....
with a 150 wet shot, should I advance, retard, or keep the cam straight up?

I would like to do this motor as nicely as possible, and NO I will not buy a new cam. I believe the B cam is just fine for my application.

Setup is as follows-
Stock shortblock .030 over
GT40s, ported with stock valves/upgraded springs (unknown brand, they have red marks on intake and green on exhaust)
explorer heads/intake
B303
3.73 gears/T5
Longtubes with Hpipe/flowmasters
65mm TB

Any positive advice would be appreciated. thanks guys!

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Advancing the cam will give you a little more jam down low and retarding it will have the opposite effect. If you're going to advance, make sure to check the piston to valve clearance first. Get out the clay and the micrometer. You'll want to shoot for .080-.100 clearance.

Combination sound good. It's your basic recipe for solid low-13-second timeslips, in a full weight car. With a 150-shot, you should see high-11's with traction and some quick shifts.

 

[mikestang63]

B cam? Don't those autotune?

 

[Alex Kraczek]

Lmfao.

Question, can the stock ECU compensate for a large amount of nitrous on a MAF car, or do i need to get a chip?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Lmfao.

Question, can the stock ECU compensate for a large amount of nitrous on a MAF car, or do i need to get a chip?

Why would you think you need to fool with the ECU? With a wet kit, the nitrous is spraying after the MAF, along with the fuel. If you're gonna spray the much nitrous, you should consider a window switch to reduce the chance of fuel puddling in the intake.

What kind of kit are you using?

 

[Alex Kraczek]

Im going to be using a window switch as well, im thinking it will activate at 2800 and shutoff at 5500?

Nirous express Proton Plus kit

 

[Alex Kraczek]

Here is a picture of the exact kit i will be using, plus a window switch

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Here is a picture of the exact kit i will be using, plus a window switch

Start small with your nitrous jets and work your way up. I'd go up in stages (75hp....100hp.....125hp, etc) and see how it holds up. A 150hp shot on a stock bottom end is on the high side. You might find yourself replacing head gaskets.

 

[Alex Kraczek]

On a stock ECU/no Wideband (at the moment, that may change) what would be your personal method of tuning for best results without blowing this thing up?
I will be more than likely driving this car on a daily basis, so I would like to stay as safe as possible while achieving optimal results. Staying with a smaller shot would be fine with me if that is what i have to do...

 

[Gearbanger 101]

At this level, there really isn't any tuning required. Go with the recommended jet size for the size of the nitrous hit and go to town. The system will have one jet size for fuel and another for nitrous that will come in various sizes depending on how big the shot is.

 

[A5literMan]

Also make sure your timing is no more than the stock 10* with 100 shot or less. With the 125-150 hit I'd start retarding the timing 2* and watch the spark plugs after each pass. Also don't be spraying for chits and grins on the street. It's worthless and a waste of time. All you will do is spin and potentially damage things. Keep it for track passes. Just my .02