Race Engine build quote........YIKES!

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after building my first big engine about 1k miles in the front (snout) of the crank shaft literally snapped off and fugged everything up that wasn't major but was about a 4K hit. Im over that stage, im happy with stock or semi stock stuff that doesn't break ... as often

Do you know how many 1/4 mile passes you have to have to make it to 1K miles? At that point I will have possibly moved on to bigger and better things Lol.........
 
Sounds like you are going down the same road I just went down. Are you looking for 1200 to the tire or the crank? There is a big difference
Good luck with the kenne bell at those power levels. As for the hood clearance, I could fit a stock hood with my windsor and v24 x they just don't make a stock flat fiberglass hood for an 85 so I had to go with a 2.5" cowl
 
Sounds like you are going down the same road I just went down. Are you looking for 1200 to the tire or the crank? There is a big difference
Good luck with the kenne bell at those power levels. As for the hood clearance, I could fit a stock hood with my windsor and v24 x they just don't make a stock flat fiberglass hood for an 85 so I had to go with a 2.5" cowl
i thought schoneck made a flat glass hood for them
 
http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...no-method-sbf-roots-foxbody.html#post11276382

Ever thought about doing something like this, but instead of a TVS or eaton, put a monster KB or whipple on it? Be cool to see a 3.8 or 4.0L on a pushrod motor.

I doubt that the above project could have an air to water intercooler that could support the HP that I am after. Also he is using a stock dampener with the 36 tooth trigger wheel already attached. This would be another problem for me as that dampener would not take the RPM and HP load plus it is only a 6 rib dampener and I need at least an 8 rib belt to drive the supercharger. Not that that guy does not have an awesome project, it is just more street oriented. I am going to be spinning just north of 8,000 rpm and pushing 26-27 psi before intercooler. At that kind of load and RPM, a stock 6 rib dampener would come apart. I suppose someone could make a one off zero balance 8 rib SFI dampener, but even then, the pulley spacing would not work with what I have. Anytime you center the supercharger in the center of the engine on a pushrod based 5.0 you run into intercooler core size vs cooling effectiveness, unless you mount the blower up a lot higher. Otherwise you need a relatively small intercooler core, and that limits how much boost you can push through it and that also limits how much of a air charge temp drop you can get.
 
your going to have a hell of a time with a 8 rib set up.

we killed belts in about 2-3 passes at 25lbs on a 2.2 making 660rwhp through a C4 on a mustang dyno.
id suggest a 12 rib set up or a cog set up
 
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I doubt that the above project could have an air to water intercooler that could support the HP that I am after. Also he is using a stock dampener with the 36 tooth trigger wheel already attached. This would be another problem for me as that dampener would not take the RPM and HP load plus it is only a 6 rib dampener and I need at least an 8 rib belt to drive the supercharger. Not that that guy does not have an awesome project, it is just more street oriented. I am going to be spinning just north of 8,000 rpm and pushing 26-27 psi before intercooler. At that kind of load and RPM, a stock 6 rib dampener would come apart. I suppose someone could make a one off zero balance 8 rib SFI dampener, but even then, the pulley spacing would not work with what I have. Anytime you center the supercharger in the center of the engine on a pushrod based 5.0 you run into intercooler core size vs cooling effectiveness, unless you mount the blower up a lot higher. Otherwise you need a relatively small intercooler core, and that limits how much boost you can push through it and that also limits how much of a air charge temp drop you can get.

There are a lot of things with that setup that could be changed. ATI makes balancers with crank trigger magnets right in them, you dont have to use that style trigger wheel, and im sure at the level you are doing this build, you wouldnt mind doing some custom work. I think doing a coil on plug setup would be much better than a distributor anyways. Much more accurate, and powerful spark. I think if anything is going to be a limiting factor on your setup, its going to be the small kenne bell. I just figured i would throw it out there.
 
I think if anything is going to be a limiting factor on your setup, its going to be the small kenne bell.

That "small" Kenne Bell is capable of supporting over 1200 HP. So I don't think of it as small, but very efficient. ATI does have a dampener for a crank trigger, but they only can provide up to 16 magnets in the dampener at this time, I would like to have at least 32. I want to do a coil on plug set up. In fact I have a Fast XFI that I want to use, and am still waiting for a reply to my e-mail about how to make the Fast XFI work with the Explorer cam sensor but have not heard back from them for about a week now. Might have to shoot them another e-mail. At this time, the Fast crank trigger uses just a 4 tooth pick-up wheel with the magnet in the sensor. This works fine until about 6,200 rpm, at that point you have to have a "flying magnet" trigger wheel with the magnets in the trigger wheel and not the sensor.
 
your going to have a hell of a time with a 8 rib set up.

we killed belts in about 2-3 passes at 25lbs on a 2.2 making 660rwhp through a C4 on a mustang dyno.
id suggest a 12 rib set up or a cog set up

Not sure what blower that was with but it was likely not a KB. KB = No Cog... ever. Not to say that there haven't been a few but the majority of those end with broken bits spit out of the casing.
 
the only issue so far with the 2.8L liquid cooled set up was not the belts...........but the snout. The stock snout was never made for that much load. We were breaking off the blower pulley bolt. The max size bolt for the pulley was 10mm and it could not take the load. Also the aluminum pulleys would last only 5-6 passes. We went with a steel pulley and the damn pulley bolt would break on the 1-2 shift every time. So we took off the snout, and had it modified to accept a bigger diameter shaft so we could run a 12mm pulley bolt, plus the bearings in the snout were also upgraded, and then going to a Billetflow pulley that was steel at the hub, with an aluminum outer shell fixed the problem.
 
i just want to add that your idea of running the coil on plug set up is sounding better and better. we have to run a very odd cap set up on the race car because of where the 3rd system is and we may not be able to pull enough timing on that cap and keep the rotor phased correctly and still have enough base timing to get the car up on the brake...
 
The nice thing about the Fast XFI is if you go COP, then it allows you to vary ignition timing changes from one cylinder to the next, so if you have one cylinder showing a pre-ignition issue, you do not have to kill timing across all of the cylinders, just the one that has the issue. It also allows for individual fuel injector timing as well. It just opens up a whole addition range of tuning.
 
we can do the cylinder to cylinder stuff in the power grid also... we've always had to do that. number 8 always was zero and read cool so we had to throw a bigger jet in that one just to get it to keep up