Rant and some info about our starters

chaos254

Founding Member
Jul 27, 2002
467
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29
NJ
Ok so I finally got around to checking my starter. Pulled it today and noticed that the gears are worn and chipped. Also noticed when I shake the starter it makes a rattling noise. So I try to move the the gear and it visibly moves side to side. Bring it to Checkers and it tests good. They tell me its normal to have that much play?? :rolleyes: I didn't think that was right so I went to Autozone to have it checked again.

Manager tests it for me and says it sounds really weak even though it passed and that their tests are pretty much BS because its one thing for it to spin freely than compared to having to move the flywheel. It also should not have play like that. So come to find out its still under warranty but they dont have it. So he sends me to another store about 5 miles away and reserves it for me.

I'm at the other store and this 60 year old woman looks at it and of course she says they are not the same and doesn't want to warranty it. And apparantly the # was different, I purchased it in 2003 in Pennsylvania. Manager comes over and hes looking at it. I'm like the starter has not come off the vehicle since I bought it in 2003. It's the same starter, the other store has no problem replacing it with the warranty, they just don't have it. So he's looking through his computer and talking in spanish to his co-workers about the situation. The whole time the old hag is shaking her head and mouthing its not the same starter. I wanted to punch her in the face lol. :nonono: So finally the manager decides to warranty it and I'm good to go.

So I notice there is no spade connector for the starter and paperwork they give me explains why. I bet that is why she thought it was the wrong one, either that or she is just dumb.

This is what the paper says.

"Applications equipped with Motorcraft style PMGR starters have a no start problem that usually occurs because of a bad ground or due to corrosion at the ignition terminal of the starter solenoid. Your starter was originally equipped with a male spade type of connector which is not protected from the elements thus creating corrosion and a poor connection.

Ford Motor Company has recognized this as a problem. A conversion kit was produced to change the original spade connector to an eyelet/post type connection. This provides better current carrying capabilities and is more corrosion resistant."

Figured some of you guys would find this helpful when trying to figure out a starting issue. I'm also going to replace the positive cable and grounds. Is there only one ground going from the battery to the timing chain cover? I'll probably add another from there to the frame for some additional insurance.

Sorry for the ridiculously long post... :eek:
 
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More info: That terminal is for the interlock circuit. An issue with it should produce a no-crank situation.

I think it's a good idea. Other Makes have used spade connectors and they definitely can be problematic. A ring terminal is a better idea.

For the ground, I ran an additional 4 AWG generic starter cable (because it has two eye terminals on it already) from the motor-side of the passenger motor mount to the passenger side frame rail (next to the ABS pump). If you have braided strap, it packages even easier.

If playing with grounds, an additional sheetmetal to negative battery terminal ground is a good idea.
 
For the ground, I ran an additional 4 AWG generic starter cable (because it has two eye terminals on it already) from the motor-side of the passenger motor mount to the passenger side frame rail (next to the ABS pump). If you have braided strap, it packages even easier.

If playing with grounds, an additional sheetmetal to negative battery terminal ground is a good idea.

Sounds good I am planning on going from the driver side motor mount to the frame.

I'm using 2ga wiring for all the new cables.. also going to order a new alternator cable from 50resto since it has the fuse.
 
Sounds good I am planning on going from the driver side motor mount to the frame.

I'm using 2ga wiring for all the new cables.. also going to order a new alternator cable from 50resto since it has the fuse.

You should have a braided strap from the driver's side motor mount to the driver's side frame (that's why I used the passenger side - I just mirrored what was already done at the factory). If you don't have the factory ground, you might wanna do one on both sides just for duplicity's sake.

The alt cable upgrade is a nice idea. :nice: I didnt know anyone made one just for us so I had to make my own (also with an ANL fuse - easier to swap those than fusible links. I am going to a resettable circuit breaker at some point though).

If the cable you got is for 94-95's, can you post a link? I haven't seen one for our cars (sans like the PA-P generic 3G cables). It would be nice to have a part number to refer people to. :nice:
 
The driver side on mine is not braided, its just a regular wire and it broke off and looks like it is sandwiched between the block and motor mount. I was just going to replace that first and see how everything is. I can always add the other ground anytime.

The alternator cable in 50resto is from PA performance for 94-04 and its a 4ga wire with fuse. It is $40, part # PA-9905..... I might just do what you did and make my own depending on the cost of a fuse because the wire is cheap.
 
Well I called 5.0 resto today to order a couple of parts including the alternator wire. The guy I spoke with asked me if I had a stereo because he said the part # I provided would cause the dreaded alternator whine in my speakers. They do offer a wire with noise suppression so this won't happen. Of course it was more but I really don't want to have to deal with anymore wiring issues. lol. I'll post up the part # when I receive my order.