Really Down About My Car.

Since the Coyotes have come out, the 03/04 Cobras have come way down in price. Just within 250 miles of where I live, there are 4 for less than $18k. Sure, there's still people asking $20k+ for them, but there aren't nearly as many selling for that price anymore.

Where are you from? Around here, the sticker prices for new 5.0s are WAY more than $27k. I do a good bit of looking around, and the cheapest I've seen any new 5.0 was just under $31k. And it was a completely base model. Most people looking a new car want more than a base. Whether it's leather seats, nicer sound system, Sync, etc. (which means you need the Premium model, which is an additional $4,000), the 14" Brembos or 3.73s (Track Package which is another $2,500), or whatever else, the price adds up FAST. If you can get a new GT just like you want for under $35k, then mad props to you. But 95% of people out there can't do it.

Terminator and Coyote make almost identical power numbers stock (around 365 rwhp). While the Coyote is faster due to it's improved transmission gearing, rear gearing, and weight, the Terminator engine is nothing to look down on. Bolt on Coyotes make 400 rwhp; bolt on Terminators make 500 rwhp. The Terminators are proven to take 700 rwhp for years and years of abuse with no problems. That can't be said about the 5.0s (yet).


To the OP. Here's my advice.

First, as already mentioned, decide if you like your car. It sounds silly, but if you don't like it, there's no reason to spend money on it. If you do like it, continue reading.

You've already got a CAI, exhaust, and gears, which should probably be the first mods, and will serve you well for any future mods you do. I have a 98 GT, and if I could do it all over again (modding my car), and had a goal of a fast car that could hold it's own against newer cars, here's what I'd do.

1. Grab an entire PI motor out of a junkyard car. www.car-part.com is your friend. Look specifically for Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Cars. I got my motor for $600; it only had 30k miles on it. Just a quick search in my area netted almost 10 of these motors with <75k miles for less than $800. Assuming you have the tools/time to do it, this really is easier than a PI heads/cams/intake swap, and will net practically the same power.

2. Piece together a Tork Tech Terminator kit. I haven't looked recently, but several times in the past I have pieced together an entire kit for <$3500. That's an intercooled, positive displacement blower setup, good to around 400 rwhp, for $3500. That absolutely cannot be beat. You can get used Vortech setups even cheaper.

3. Voila. You have a car that will beat/keep up with pretty much any car on the road. You can still spend some money on the suspension if you desire (and I'd recommend doing that).

Granted, this route requires you to have some know-how, tools (engine hoist, various generic tools like wrenches, sockets, etc., jack/jack stands), and most importantly, some patience. However, once upon a time, I didn't know how to do any of this, but through hours of reading and subsequently working on my car, I now think that it isn't much to do any of this. If you think you can, this is absolutely the best route to a 400 rwhp 96-98 car. All said and done, it should be able to be done for <$5,000, and should EASILY result in a mid-12 second car. My car runs high 11s with a less efficient blower setup, stock auto-tragic transmission, and stock gears. I haven't lost to a new 5.0 or 03/04 Cobra in years. :shrug:

Seriously. Supercharge your car. It won't be another 60 month car payment and you will have a 350+rwhp car. I surprise guys in new Corvettes and CTS V's plus new 5.0's. I don't blow their doors off, and I don't have to worry about depreciation since my car is 13 years old. And it'll out handle plenty of cars too...
 
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Honestly this may be the option I go with down the road. Id like to start with a PI engine and long tubes, drag radials and see if im in the 13's and how deep I can get into the 13's with the bolt on's
 
Honestly this may be the option I go with down the road. Id like to start with a PI engine and long tubes, drag radials and see if im in the 13's and how deep I can get into the 13's with the bolt on's

That should get you well into the 13s. Some have gone 12s with that setup, but it takes some weight reduction and/or suspension, some really hard launches, and some GREAT driving. For most people, you'd be running 13.2-13.5 on that setup, maybe a touch faster.

And I didn't clarify earlier. The reason I suggest the entire PI motor is this: it leaves the door open for forced induction down the road. With a PI head swap, the compression is a little much for a supercharged daily driver, leaving you the options of either nitrous or keeping it N/A. With the PI motor, you get the chance to get a newer motor with less miles, all the while keeping plenty of options open later down the road.

Also, doing long tubes is a GREAT idea while you have the motor out. Unfortunately, I did not when I had my motor out, as it was out of my budget, but I sure would have liked to.