rustoleum paint jobs
- Thread starter cervinistang
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People who can afford the right paint job are going to say it's a bad idea...people like me who spend all their money on PARTS and not cosmetics are gonna tell you that the car is gonna need sanded/DA'ed anyways before a REAL paint job goes on, so what's the big deal if you screw it up yourself?
If i had a place to do it you can bet your ass i'd have painted mine myself already and probably a dozen other cars.
If i had a place to do it you can bet your ass i'd have painted mine myself already and probably a dozen other cars.
You guys who don't think it'll turn out good need to look at the finished products of people that have actually done it. Every one that I have seen has turned out excellent.
There's several guys over on the classic forums that have done it with excellent results. Heck, the Rustoleum paint is far more advanced and durable than the original enamel paint used in the factory back in the 60's and 70's.
Check out this Corvair, after 8 months of sitting outside and no wax applied since the Rustoleum went on: http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-8mos.html
There's several guys over on the classic forums that have done it with excellent results. Heck, the Rustoleum paint is far more advanced and durable than the original enamel paint used in the factory back in the 60's and 70's.
Check out this Corvair, after 8 months of sitting outside and no wax applied since the Rustoleum went on: http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-8mos.html
Only issues I've had with the paintjob I threw on my notch a couple of years ago is that the front started to flake off where I did a crappy prep job (my fault, not the paint's), mine has some pretty awful orange peel and visible roller tracks in some parts because I didn't know to thin the stuff out 50/50 when I did mine (first try with Rustoleum, before I'd read about anyone else doing the same), and it has started to oxidize a bit because I'm a lazy bum that hasn't gotten around to giving it a proper buff in wayyyy too long.
I plan on sanding it down, giving it one more proper coat, and then wet-sanding it a bit to smooth it out, when I've got the time to piddle with it.
As it's been pointed out, what's the use in whining that you can't paint over it, when nobody in their right mind should ever paint over multiple layers of old paint in the first place and expect wonderful results. I went with Rustoleum because:
1. I'm poor and can't even afford a Maaco paintjob;
2. My notch has 270k on it (about 255k at the time I did it, IIRC);
3. The body has more dents and dings in it than I'm ever going to wanna piddle with fixing, so why throw on a fancy paintjob;
4. It was my DD up until about six months ago, so any nice paintjob I'd put on there would only get sandblasted by highway debris, banged up and gouged by idiots in parking lots, and/or beat on by the elements;
5. Paint won't make it go fast.
I refined my process a bit when I did Frankenstang's Capri a couple of months ago after reading up on others' methods of doing the Rustoleum paintjob. Still not perfect, but loads better than my notch (which didn't turn out all that horrible, anyhow). We kinda sped through the work on that one because of time constraints, and because we knew we'd have to go back and do a lot of it over again in the future, anyway (especially the roof ... ugh).
After multiple coats and two Foxes' worth of painting, I still have half a gallon left. That $30 can has lasted me a lonnnnnnng time, already.
I plan on sanding it down, giving it one more proper coat, and then wet-sanding it a bit to smooth it out, when I've got the time to piddle with it.
As it's been pointed out, what's the use in whining that you can't paint over it, when nobody in their right mind should ever paint over multiple layers of old paint in the first place and expect wonderful results. I went with Rustoleum because:
1. I'm poor and can't even afford a Maaco paintjob;
2. My notch has 270k on it (about 255k at the time I did it, IIRC);
3. The body has more dents and dings in it than I'm ever going to wanna piddle with fixing, so why throw on a fancy paintjob;
4. It was my DD up until about six months ago, so any nice paintjob I'd put on there would only get sandblasted by highway debris, banged up and gouged by idiots in parking lots, and/or beat on by the elements;
5. Paint won't make it go fast.
I refined my process a bit when I did Frankenstang's Capri a couple of months ago after reading up on others' methods of doing the Rustoleum paintjob. Still not perfect, but loads better than my notch (which didn't turn out all that horrible, anyhow). We kinda sped through the work on that one because of time constraints, and because we knew we'd have to go back and do a lot of it over again in the future, anyway (especially the roof ... ugh).
After multiple coats and two Foxes' worth of painting, I still have half a gallon left. That $30 can has lasted me a lonnnnnnng time, already.
mustangjoe87
Member
Sorry, I have been in meetings all day.
I personally work for Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes, and if you are looking for an economy single stage paint I would recommend our dimension line. It is very cost effective, lays out nicely , and is easy to use. What part of Michigan do you live in? I work out of the Detroit location at 5mile and telegraph.
90
Active Member
im in Taylor.... not to Far... We used Some Harbor Freight Guns ($10) Can of Rustees Prime And Paint (50) and it Makes These Trailers Look Brand New... Of Course We Don't Buff Them Out After Painting... Were Mechanics not Painters... Painting Just Keeps up Working While The Work Gets Approved..
mustangjoe87
Member
If you have a project coming up let me know, on most products I am very competitive and even our coatings in our economy lines are priced well with very good quality.
90
Active Member
have you Heard of Xtra Lease?.. they Lease out 54'er Trailers.... THey have an account with a Mom and pop Shop on the Corner of the Street, we Get there recites and They charge them out the Waaaa zooo... All it is, is to make the old rusty Trailers look newer so that people Will want To Lease them... its A Rough Job Needle Scaling Taping, then Prime And paint... We do about 3 a Day What Kinda deals you Cutting over there At Sherwin's ?
mustangjoe87
Member
I just live in deaborn so im real close. Im not quite ready for anything yet, just looking at options.
Hickfied
Member
If your talking about the laqueer (SP) no, it isn't good. I would consider the Rustoleum a notch above, but I guess some automotive finish specialists would disagree.
87_stang
Member
Go to Oreilly's or Advanced Auto and get a gallon of Dupli Color. You can get a gallon of paint, thinner and all your sandpaper for under $75. Its cheap but will turn out much better. I used it once, the car in my sig (dark blue met.) and it turned out very nice for what it was, then I sanded it off a week later cause it didn't go well at all with my red interior!
Did you roll or spray this Duplicolor stuff? I saw cans of that at Autozone just before doing Frankenstang's Capri, and I was going to give that one some serious consideration, but I just wasn't sure if it was roller-friendly (because I'm too cheap/dumb to buy and use a sprayer ). Had some pretty nice colors in their selection, too. Might consider trying it out on the HARBL if they've got a maroon-ish red that matches well enough...
). Had some pretty nice colors in their selection, too. Might consider trying it out on the HARBL if they've got a maroon-ish red that matches well enough...
mustangjoe87
Member
Duplicolor is a division owned by SW, the stuff your seeing is most likely lacquer. This is old old tech, not durable at all, go with a urethane based system if you want it to last for any amount of time.
87_stang
Member
mustangjoe87
Member
If you go with our Dimension line you can get any OEM color that you want except for TriCoats. Check out this website to look up color codes. www.sherwin-automotive.com/formula
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