Anyone have good instructions or know how difficult it is? As 96-04 mustangs were a bitch and really weren't worth it unless you needed. Looks like there is more room in the new body...anyone done them? 
S197 Headers Install
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xtweakerx
New Member
from what i understand its a pain in the ass to install long tube headers on 05+, it can be done of course but if you have money and not a list of the other general mods, id get those mods first.. Example, CAI+Tune+Gears+Suspension+Pullies+Off-Road Pipe+Drag Radials etc.
Well I got 7/8ths way done with the disassembly before realizing that the G-damn company neglected to inform me during the instructions that I would either need a really small gear wrench, or lift the motor off the motor mounts to get the last bolt off the bottom of each manifold.
Imagine standing there after working on your car for an hour and a half and THEN realizing that you didn't have good instructions, all the right tools listed on the instructions, and your car was torn apart and unable to drive to the store to get the additional needed tools until you put the car back together. By then I already had the stock H-pipe off, and all but those 1 bolts on each side. What an utter disappointment.
And then all that trouble for the potential of 0-5rwhp.
I have done header installs before. My GTO required taking the steering rack out and all kinds of stuff, and that was doable......because the instructions told you ALL the steps and tools you needed to get the job done.
I still have my Pypes S/S Headers sitting new in the box.
Imagine standing there after working on your car for an hour and a half and THEN realizing that you didn't have good instructions, all the right tools listed on the instructions, and your car was torn apart and unable to drive to the store to get the additional needed tools until you put the car back together. By then I already had the stock H-pipe off, and all but those 1 bolts on each side. What an utter disappointment.
And then all that trouble for the potential of 0-5rwhp.
I have done header installs before. My GTO required taking the steering rack out and all kinds of stuff, and that was doable......because the instructions told you ALL the steps and tools you needed to get the job done.
I still have my Pypes S/S Headers sitting new in the box.
NastyStang113
New Member
Its not that hard in my opinion. If it gets tight, all you have to do is jack up the motor a bit. Also, for most LT's you need to disconnect the steering shaft, which isn't difficult at all. I've also been told that if you take out the starter it makes it very easy. Also, this lessens the risk of scratching the ceramic coating. Just make sure you have a buddy to help you out. It makes it a lot easier.
I agree that's a horrible site. It looks like it has lots of info and then the pages never load.
stangdude2000
Founding Member
The heat is killer!
Mods, please delete - I created a new thread in the talk section, and somehow it got posted here??? Sorry about that...
Mods, please delete - I created a new thread in the talk section, and somehow it got posted here??? Sorry about that...
I have done it in my garage myself. I installed the JBA Shorty Headers.
I used 4 jack stands and a hydraulic jack. Take the motor mounts completely off and jack the engine up about 2 inches.
Another tip, loosen the nut on the stud first, then use a small wrench to remove the stud itself, the headers come off alot easier. You don't have to try and get them past the studs to remove them. I didn't reuse the studs, I used the bolts that came with the headers. I did have to remove the starter and reposition the drive shaft. One problem I had was the drive rack bolts were loctite and very hard to remove. Also get a socket wrench with long extender shafts with elbows and deep sockets. Also, remove the battery and the battery box, makes it easier to access the header and also to unhook the o2 sensor on the passenger side.
If you go to the JBA web site, they have good instructions there, it should apply the same to any other headers.
I used 4 jack stands and a hydraulic jack. Take the motor mounts completely off and jack the engine up about 2 inches.
Another tip, loosen the nut on the stud first, then use a small wrench to remove the stud itself, the headers come off alot easier. You don't have to try and get them past the studs to remove them. I didn't reuse the studs, I used the bolts that came with the headers. I did have to remove the starter and reposition the drive shaft. One problem I had was the drive rack bolts were loctite and very hard to remove. Also get a socket wrench with long extender shafts with elbows and deep sockets. Also, remove the battery and the battery box, makes it easier to access the header and also to unhook the o2 sensor on the passenger side.
If you go to the JBA web site, they have good instructions there, it should apply the same to any other headers.
I just completed the install of BBK shorty headers on my car. It is not hard but it is a pain in the butt. I had the luxury of a www.kwiklift.com in my garage and I was under no time constraints so I was able to take my time. You must have the right tools, box end ratchets, long extensions and universal or swivels for your sockets, or it can be even more frustrating. An extra pair of hands wouldn't hurt either. If you completely remove the motor mounts (easy), starter and steering shaft and jack up the motor you'll have lots of room. I also removed the battery and the battery box to access the O2 sensor on the passenger side. You will have to jack up the motor. To remove the starter there are three bolts and for the bolt on the very top you'll need to feel for it and remove with 1/4" drive socket and short extension. I took all of the exhaust manifold studs out except three on the bottom on each side and used the bolts that came with the headers for all the rest.
Emay
Member
I just installed HeavyGt's Kooks headers on Saturday night. Aside from his Bassani X pipe being seized on and me contemplating cutting it off, the headers themselves were a 3 hour job start to finish. Of course I spent about 4 more hours getting the Xpipe freed up from the over axle tubes in an effort to save it for him to sell. Took an array of heat, pb blaster and aerokroil to get her off, but she is definately in sellable condition.
I got the passenger side header done this time as a test without removing the starter. This is like my 4th set of long tubes I have installed locally and every time that starter was a royal pain. I got enough clearence with the motor mount completely removed from the block to get the header in nice and smooth.
I got the passenger side header done this time as a test without removing the starter. This is like my 4th set of long tubes I have installed locally and every time that starter was a royal pain. I got enough clearence with the motor mount completely removed from the block to get the header in nice and smooth.
stangdude2000
Founding Member
