school me on head studs

[jgfiveoh]

i'm needing to get some arp head studs. 7/16" w/washers for windsor style heads. i've narrowed it down to a four choices: 1) hex head stud 2) 12 point stud 3) hex head undercut stud 4) 12 pt undercut stud.

what is the difference between regular and undercut? does undercut make them stronger or clamp better in any way? what is the diff between hex and 12 pt or is it just personal preference?

with the studs will i still need to go back and retorque after its been run as with normal head bolts?

would it be legit to torque down the heads, heat with two heat guns pointed down coolant passages, and then retorque while still warm or do i need to drive it and retorque? <-- i saw this in a hot rod mag coming from an engine builder but i wanted to see what everyone else thought.

any quick responses would be great cause i'd like to order 2nite still so i have it for the weekend! thanks everyone!:SNSign:

 

[rideapony]

yes I read that undercut fasteners have more constant clamping. If you plan to use any ARP bolts or studs they come with different torque specs and they ask you to follow the vehicle's manual torque sequences but use ARP's torque specs (usually lower than regular bolt/stud specs)

The diference between Hex and 12 point nuts is basically the size and the strenght: 12 point nuts have smaller outter dimensions to have easier access in between the valve springs and are also stronger because the socket has 12 contact points instead of 6.

As far as re-torquing the heads I heard that this was done in the past. Most of the new head gasket makers say it's not necessary some even tell you not to do it

Nick