Hi all, I don't ever really post much on this forum, but it seems like a good place to ask some questions. I've got a 94 Cobra and a Tweecer RT. I'm using the CBAZA/J4J1. The motor has been rebuilt (306), has some aftermarket cam in it (no idea which one though), 24lb injectors (that's stock right?), ProM MAF, Prof. Products TB, some crappy shorty headers and x-pipe, and flows. AC, Smog, EGR deletes too. The MAF says Pro FLow, Professional Flow Technologies. In the MODEL box it says, 75mm 19cxm. In the CALIBRATION box it says 19cxm. I can't make out the X character.....looks like either a C, G, maybe a O. I believe the MAF I picked in Tweecer was just Prom_19.maf.
So far I have loaded the MAF transfer for my meter from the files in Tweecer, changed CID, changed idle, rev limiters, speed limiters, took care of the smog/egr crap, pulled the SPOUT and set the timing to 10, and I think that's it. I've read SOOO much stuff now about the Tweecer and all that. I'm kind of tired of reading and was just ready to ask some of my own questions. Nothing I read really pinpointed what I"m looking for.
Well I'm trying to fix my idle problems and really get everything dialed in. I was messing with the ISC neutral airflow trying to help the idle. The ISC duty cycle is around 40-55% and I was trying to get it around 35 or so. I got to thinking though, and it is pointless to mess with that when I haven't verified that my MAF transfer is correct. The MAF transfer is pretty much the first thing that has to be dialed in, in order for anything else to be correct......right?? How can I verify that it IS correct?
Other things I've noticed......at idle, the car will go into closed loop, LAMBSE 1 & 2 will slowly creep down and stop at something like 10.90, then the car will idle pretty decent for a minute or two, then the RPMs will raise to about 1100, it'll go into OL and LAMBSEs jump back to 14.xx, then goes back into CL and repeats. I have the idle set to 750 and it generally hovers around 800-850, not sure if that's normal.
Also it seems like if I tap the gas, it doesn't respond until about a second later, then the RPMs jump up much higher than expected. What else.......idle hangs around 1500-2000 quite often until I come to a complete stop. Sometimes it feels like it's hanging while in gear.....feels like a cruise control and I can take my foot off the gas. Cold starts it doesn't like to idle at all. KAMRFs I've noticed always go above 1 when they do change. Based on the KAMRFs and LAMBSEs, if I'm getting all this correct, the car is lean so it's commanding richer mixtures to try to compensate, correct?
I'm just really not sure where to start since it seems like so many things are acting based on data from other things. I'm also not sure about how to set spark. I mean I've read tons of crap about HOW, but I guess it's figuring out how much spark I want a certain rpm/load. How are spark figures determined I guess. Advance it everywhere till you hear detonation then back off?? That really doesn't sound like a great way to go about it.
Anywho right now I just want to fix the idle drivability issues. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. Sorry for the long post, too.
-Blaise
So far I have loaded the MAF transfer for my meter from the files in Tweecer, changed CID, changed idle, rev limiters, speed limiters, took care of the smog/egr crap, pulled the SPOUT and set the timing to 10, and I think that's it. I've read SOOO much stuff now about the Tweecer and all that. I'm kind of tired of reading and was just ready to ask some of my own questions. Nothing I read really pinpointed what I"m looking for.
Well I'm trying to fix my idle problems and really get everything dialed in. I was messing with the ISC neutral airflow trying to help the idle. The ISC duty cycle is around 40-55% and I was trying to get it around 35 or so. I got to thinking though, and it is pointless to mess with that when I haven't verified that my MAF transfer is correct. The MAF transfer is pretty much the first thing that has to be dialed in, in order for anything else to be correct......right?? How can I verify that it IS correct?
Other things I've noticed......at idle, the car will go into closed loop, LAMBSE 1 & 2 will slowly creep down and stop at something like 10.90, then the car will idle pretty decent for a minute or two, then the RPMs will raise to about 1100, it'll go into OL and LAMBSEs jump back to 14.xx, then goes back into CL and repeats. I have the idle set to 750 and it generally hovers around 800-850, not sure if that's normal.
Also it seems like if I tap the gas, it doesn't respond until about a second later, then the RPMs jump up much higher than expected. What else.......idle hangs around 1500-2000 quite often until I come to a complete stop. Sometimes it feels like it's hanging while in gear.....feels like a cruise control and I can take my foot off the gas. Cold starts it doesn't like to idle at all. KAMRFs I've noticed always go above 1 when they do change. Based on the KAMRFs and LAMBSEs, if I'm getting all this correct, the car is lean so it's commanding richer mixtures to try to compensate, correct?
I'm just really not sure where to start since it seems like so many things are acting based on data from other things. I'm also not sure about how to set spark. I mean I've read tons of crap about HOW, but I guess it's figuring out how much spark I want a certain rpm/load. How are spark figures determined I guess. Advance it everywhere till you hear detonation then back off?? That really doesn't sound like a great way to go about it.
Anywho right now I just want to fix the idle drivability issues. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it. Sorry for the long post, too.
-Blaise
