Some trouble with my car, time for some heads

rj95svt

Member
Jan 11, 2007
422
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16
Hayden, AL
I was driving my car last Saturday for the first time in a couple weeks. I had finally figured out and fixed an annoying exhaust rattle that was driving me crazy and I was just going to cruise around a bit. I was on the interstate and the engine vibrated violently for a split second and just shut off. After trying to figure out why it quit for a few minutes I found the problem. The distributor was not turning.*I pulled the distributor and the front cover to find the bolt had backed out of the cam and the dowel pin in the cam had sheared off:eek:.

I remember torqing this bolt when I built the engine but what I didn't do was use locktite on it. Lesson learned, but unfortunatly the hard way. I now have to pull the heads off because of some bent valves. I figure that instead of spending the money on rebuilding my stock gt40's I'll install some aftermarket aluminum heads.

So now I'm trying to come up with a plan for this. I was not exactly prepared to spend this kind of money right now. I have narrowed my options down to three different heads. Right now the engine has a Crower 15511 cam, port matched cobra upper and lower, mac shorties, O/R xpipe, some flowmasters, and 3.73's. I know the cam will probably not be optimum for the combo but I may to try to keep it for now if I can get the sheared pin out of it.

Option #1 Canfield 170 heads, These heads have a 18 degree valve angle which allows you to use 2.02 valves with stock pistons. Of course I'll still check my ptv clearance with any of these heads.

Option #2 TFS TW heads, A old standby that performs well and has the best price.

Option #3 Canfield 195's These would be the best performing heads but these would require a custom cam to clear the valves.
I know I don't AFR's listed but I don't want to buy a set of 1400$ heads then have to have to upgrade the springs. I will probably purchase a custom cam with options 1 or 2 down the road when I install a aftermarket intake. So what do you guys think.
 
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That sucks!

I know I don't AFR's listed but I don't want to buy a set of 1400$ heads then have to have to upgrade the springs.

I don't know if you were aware of this or not by AFR changed their stock valve spring package last year to a state of the art design. They adopted some of the LS1 technology and incorporated a smaller OD spring with a higher seat pressure. This accomplished two things, it makes for a lighter valve train since the valve stem (now 8mm), retainer, and spring are all smaller now and the higher seat pressure helps to keep the valve where it belongs. For most applications, I doubt the springs will need to be swapped anymore. Valve float should be a thing of the past for AFR's unless crazy RPM's or cam events are introduced, but in that instance you wouldn't think of using the stock stuff anyway. I'm not trying to sway you but rather inform you of how they fixed the only problem I've known them to have.
 
No problem!

BTW- I incoporated the new style valve springs and retainers into my old AFR165's when I rebuilt them after bending the exhaust valves from a 3-2 shift. My new AFR 185 comps have the complete new valvetrain on them too.
 
Well I have now found more carnage! the cam and 8 lifters are junk!! I just finished pulling the heads and intake off the car. When the cam was allowed to slide back in the engine the driver side lifers contacted the passenger side cam lobes breaking all the lifters on the drivers side. Now I need to figure out if my budget will allow me to buy heads and a cam.