spring install question

[olymaster]

im getting ready to get the ford racing lowering springs c version
i was wondering do i just need the springs and install them and im good to go or do i need like other stuff to complete the job. i searched for info but didnt really find a definite answer. to install the springs do i need more parts to go along with the install. what about alignment? will i need a new alignment after install? something about caster/camber plate? Do i need new shocks struts or whatever along with springs or can i use the shocks already installed?can some one please help me out on what im going to need to complete the job.

 

[ThePonyKid50]

Well i dont think you "need" any other parts when u put in springs, yet normally people get their alignment done after the install, and castor/camber plates can really help out when doing alignment, ive also herd they can change the steering characteristics for the better, so i would at least get those,

I'm saving up for a bunch of suspension ****nit (springs,shocks/struts,controlarms,cc plates,subframe connect), and then when the time comes ill put it all on at once, because i hate doing things twice(when women arent involved)

 

[PoopDawg]

When you replace the springs, you really should get new isolators. The factory ones will be beat up and torn everywhere, esp. the rears. Also, it's good to get the alignment done when you touch anything in the susension that changes the geometry. I don't really like caster/camber plates. You can do the same thing that they do by slotting the stock strut plate mounting holes. Caster/Camber plates are a must for a road racer that needs to change their settings all the time. If it's just a street car, usually you can just slot them and adjust it once and never have a problem. New shocks and struts will def help in ride and handling, but is not at all necessary.

Nick

 

[86bluecobra]

Yes i agree about the isolators. i installed the same springs in my car and no one told me about isolators so i reused my old ones. They worked but they were beat to hell.

 

[iwashmycar]

i had to get a coil spring compressor that went up through the A arm and then i had to dissassemble the compressor (which screwss togeather) inside the spring to get it out lol. i heard that it may be easier to undo the bolts on the back of the A arm and drop em out that way, but im not sure..you could replace those bushings tho...i also replaced my shocks/struts and the stabilizer links too.

I also had to pay for two new tires, C/C plates and an alignment before it was all said and done...the tires wore too quickly and factory adjustment was maxed out.

-adam

 

[Euphoric306]

poopdawg that is one way of making up for no CC plates, but cutting out and therefore weakening one of the main stress points of the front suspension isn't something i'd recommend.

iwashmycar - so do i, but usually it rains the day after

jk, but i agree on undoing the A-arm bolts and doing it that way. i ****ed around with the coil spring compressor from autozone for a good 2 hours, then had both front springs in using that method in a half hour.

 

[Shakerhood]

The Correct Compressor (not from Autozone) makes the job very easy and much safer!

 

[old_blue]

another for spring isolators. I didn't do mine and they are all torn to hell. So when I get my upper and lower UCA's I am going to put a new set on there. You will need to get it aligned or plan on going through a few set of tires.

 

[BadAndy]

The Correct Compressor (not from Autozone) makes the job very easy and much safer!

if not autozone ,where????

 

[Euphoric306]

ford dealership or harbor freight probably has them. the correct one is very costly though at around 300 bucks i believe. not worth it to change springs once, twice, or ten times IMO. floor jack under front and back control arms worked fine for me.


p.s. - use a strong rope or chain to anchor spring to the FRAME when not using a spring compressor. if that thing goes flying out at you, it will hurt three months from now when you finally wake up. it may also go through a garage wall, car window/door, or anything else that may be in its path.

 

[PoopDawg]

poopdawg that is one way of making up for no CC plates, but cutting out and therefore weakening one of the main stress points of the front suspension isn't something i'd recommend.

I disagree. Ford designed the strut tower with extra material for this purpose! I was a Ford alignment tech for quite a while, and we never used CC plates, and ALWAYS got the alignment in spec without much elongating. It saves you $$ doing it this way.

 

[olymaster]

thanks guys
im gonna go with the springs and isolators and hold off off c/c plate
just got an alignment after rack swap so im still warranteed to go back for another alignment anyway

 

[04sleeper]

I have never used a spring compressor when switching to lower springs. I have installed at least a dozen or more sets and some of those being the FRPP "C" springs.
All you have to do is put a jack under the outside of the a-arm to support it and unbolt the 2 bottom strut bolts and the swaybar end link. You will also have to remove the brake caliper and tie it up out of the way.
Then slowly lower the a-arm all the way until the jack is all the way down and move it out of the way. You don't have to remove the a-arm bolts to do this. I never have.

By now I would say that 98% of the springs pressure is released. You may have to push the a-arm down a little with your foot to get the sping to come out all the way.

"C" springs will just go right in and you will not need a compressor to install them.

Now would be a good time if you have not replaced the shocks and struts. Especially if they have a lot of miles on them.

CC plates are not necessary, but they will allow more room for adjustment.

 

[Euphoric306]

04sleeper that may work for the c ssprings, but on the prokit, the springs are taller, and will not go in trying to pivot the A-arm on it's bushing bolts, at least i could not get it to go in.

 

[Shakerhood]

if not autozone ,where????

Any good tool company carriers them, they are a little over $200, but well worth it IMHO. C/C Plates are a must even on a Mustang that is not lowered as your bushings in your lower A Arms and the stock camber plate will deflect and your tires will not hold the correct alignment through a turn.