Well here is the scoop I might trade the 94 for a 68 Fastback....I got it running and now someone I know might be willing to make this trade....You guys must know that this has been a dream car for me for many years. Anyway its not for sure and the car need restoring but hey I think its worth the trade...Keep an open mind guys.
how are the floors, bottom of the quarter panels, trunk, underneath the rear glass, firewall, doors, rockers, etc. they are the main problem places i've worked with. i went to school for auto collision for 2 years. teacher had 14 running cars, probably 25 or so including parts cars, and projects. so i mainly worked with old chevelles, camaros, novas, mustangs, corvettes. so i've done a few things for old car restoration. they are fun projects, just all depending on prices. one scary thing about welding a trunk into a older mustang. the trunks floor is the gas tank, drop the gas tank, get it out of the way, cut out old panels, weld new ones in. many fires i've started welding in the trunk of a mustang. my guess is just the fumes were trapped or something. never bad enough to have to get a fire extinguisher, but enough to have me blowing hard as hell freaking out thinking this cars about to go up in flames. had to do quarters and trunk in this mustang, doors were kinda meh, but the guys car it was ran out of money to get new skins or a new door. so we just primed the whole car, and sent it out. went to a local high school for the motor to be done up. is this a straight up trade? cars probably got a 9 inch rear, what motors in it? stick? what you would you plan on doing with the car? build it up stock/
I will probably go all out with the 68. Sell the 347 go 427 TKO 600 And maybe the Elanor treatment. It will be sic.
I would love to have a 67-70...even moreso the 67-68 fastback. I would like to do a modern take on the bullitt car. Air-ride, 18in TTII's (with powdercoat grey or antrhicite center spokes), 4piston front breaks/rear disk, mini-tub to fit a slightly wider rear tire (not as wide as my 94's). Some nice buckets with roll bar and an EFI engine...either a 393 or a 5.4 DOHC with either a T56 or a TKO and a 9in. I would be VERY hard pressed to not do it myself....congrats. If the trade does go down keep us updated on the project.
Need more details on the 68. I'm a newb to the SN95s, but been around the 67-68s since I turned 16 (1981). First and foremost, what's the body like? If you can't find someone local that knows these cars, and what to look at, then post up lots of really big pics. You can do AMAZING things with them, and make them outperform your current car, but if you've got structural problems, you're better off passing. I've been working on the 67 vert for 5 years (I don't get a lot of time in the garage, but when I do, it's kinda disheartening). I'm basically going to have a new car, which is cool, but it sucks that I've got so much time, energy, and $$ into structural work. I'm well over $10k just getting rid of the rust. A general rule, if you want a vintage car to build--buy a solid body. Don't sweat the driveline. That's easy. Bodywork sucks. You mentioned going 427. Are you talking about a stroked 351, or are you talking BB? FWIW, I'd go 347 before I did a BB 427. Unless you're building a drag car, you're going to be disappointed with the handling of a BB car, unless you pop for the $5k coilover suspension (and I haven't driven one of those, so I'm only assuming that the handling gets better). On the standard suspension design, a BB is too nose heavy. And for the power you can build with a small block, if you're building a streetable car, you can get all you need without the weight penalty. If you need HUGE hp numbers, stroke a 351. Don't assume you're getting a 9". Most likely NOT, unless it's already a BB car. If you want more feedback, give more details. Apples to apples, heck yeah, get the FB!!!
