Sticky: I6 to V8 conversion

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Rusty67, Jun 12, 2007.

  1. Danielavina93

    Danielavina93 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Pasadena
    So Durden I do have an 8 inch rear then correct? And my radiator is a 3 row. And the disks in front drums on back will be more than enough to the new v8 right? And will. Have to change out the drive shaft? Or cut it? I was told I mite have to cut it an inch or two to fit the t5?
     
    #61
  2. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2002
    Messages:
    3,617
    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    59
    Location:
    SB, CA
    I think I should have been more clear. I meant a fox body donor car. He already has v8 suspension as I understand it. You get a fox setup being a roller cam 5.o and a T5 with everything you need. Change the motor mounts and add the adaptor for the zbar linkage or convert to a cable clutch. Change the drive shaft and the trans cross member and away you go. Might need to change the radiator or have the water neck moved. Get an 87-90 for a block with factory forged pistons and a WC T5.
     
    #62
  3. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2002
    Messages:
    3,617
    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    59
    Location:
    SB, CA
    Also, if you have an 8" rear don't even bother to change it, it will be fine unless you start puting down well over 300hp. Or if you start really hot roding it and dropping the clutch at 3000 rpm all the time you might break it but as long as you are not going nuts on it all the time it will be fine. Besides, as much as I hate to say it, an 8.8 is a WAY better upgrade then a 9" for ANY 302/5.0 motor.
     
    #63
    D Durden likes this.
  4. Danielavina93

    Danielavina93 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Pasadena
    That's the rear end obviously. And so the drive shaft will need to be changing? But the 302 isn't going to be mildly modded. At the most ill have headers and gt40 heads. Thinking about what carb I should use. Are there specific throttle linkages for certain carbs or are they all the same? I want to make sure and have all the parts I need for this motor swap so that's why there's a lot of questions. Sorry
     

    Attached Files:

    #64
  5. Danielavina93

    Danielavina93 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2012
    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    Pasadena
    And what leak is that on the casing? How cud I fix that?
     
    #65
  6. Rusty67

    Rusty67 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2002
    Messages:
    3,617
    Likes Received:
    13
    Trophy Points:
    59
    Location:
    SB, CA
    At this point you should really start your own thread.
     
    #66
  7. Rob Morton

    Rob Morton New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2014
    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    West Midlands England
    Thanks guys for putting this up! I am giving this a lot of thought at the moment. I'm doing a rolling restoration on my recently imported '66 6cyl and slowly parts collecting for a V8 swap. It would have been many, many years before I could have afforded a usable early V8 fastback car over here in England, (not many for sale anyhow!) and I get to drive this one to work everyday. Suitable secound hand Engines/boxes aren't too bad to find over here but un-narrowed rear axles seem to be! New small parts also seem pretty cheap to import from the states. In time I will be replacing all the parts that will need to be upgraded/swapped out anyway. I hope (maybe naively) to have the car off the road for a short time as possible, and do as many of the upgrades/swap outs in manageable chunks before the big one. The brakes/hubs/uprated suspension/steering/wheels area is one that I plan to do first, but seems to be a very big chunk that is all connected, All help/suggestions welcomed!
     
    #67
  8. D Durden

    D Durden DEEP FAT FRY
    Founding Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2000
    Messages:
    6,256
    Showcase:
    6
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    270
    Trophy Points:
    133
    Man, sorry this took so long to get back to you.

    The front discs and rear drums aren't bad. ProMotorsports Engineering actually has some drum setups that are pretty amazing (for drums). They supposedly have a "zero fade" system. Dunno . . . but it sounds good.

    I'd ditch the radiator for a BeCool unit or something like that. The little '65/'66 radiators are small at best. Get something aluminum and crossflow just to be safe.

    I had to modify my driveshaft with the 8", so that may be the case with your setup, too. I did with my 8" BUT I think it also fit my 9" Versey when I went with it.

    Picking a good master cylinder / brake booster is a bear, too. I know a lot of guys are going with big master cylinders and no brake booster and say it works pretty well . . . stiff, but well. I'm considering it.
     
    #68

Share This Page