For the last 2 winter bed-downs (11/15-4/15), I filled the tank and started it from time to time, and made a rare trip out on a dry day without any noticeable ill effects from 'stale' gas in the spring. The owners manual says not to use any aftermarket additives. Any thoughts out there on the benifits of adding Sta-bil to the tank this winter?
I have used it for years on my 1990 ZR1, no issues so far. You should be fine, I would not want to trust todays fuel sitting for 5 months.
I spoke with a Sta-bil Rep last year at a trade show and he told me to fill my tank with 93 octane for the winter instead of using his product on my 02GT. I drive mine evey 3 weeks or so in the Winter for a 20 mile run as long as the roads are clear.
I use it I have been using sta-bil in my 05 GT every winter for the past 4 years and have had no ill effects.
thats f'n weird that a rep would tell you that. Gas ....no matter wat the octane gets old. Not a big deal for you considering you driver her every 3 weeks or so
This will be my first year using Sta-Bil, but I know many people do and it certainly doesn't cause any harm. I personally will not start mine until spring. If you let it sit more than a week, the oil is all drained (and collects moisture). If you start it up every month, or every 2-3 weeks, I personally don't see a benefit, and see more harm than good in it. I let mine sit. Then I go out there, drain the oil and fill it with fresh, then we're good 'till next winter.
Storing my 07 GT for the winter Thanks to all for the comments..... It'll get 'sta-bilized' this weekend. It has worked great in my mowers and 2-cycle stuff over the years.
I agree with everything except waiting to drain the oil. Drain and fresh fill before storage, otherwise any moisture, gas, acids will be sitting in there all winter long. You can start and go on that gas and oil, make sure you drive it for atleast 30 mins to burn off any moisture from sitting all winter on your first spring trip. I've run Sta-bil in all of my stuff for years now...15 plus years no problems. When you first get going in the spring, your car will be sluggish...drive the car on that tank of gas for as long as you can before filling up with fresh gas. The fresh fill will help your car to feel like you've gained another cylinder compared to the old stuff. Get a battery tender or disconnect the battery. Battery tender is the preferred choice.
I hardley eaver drive the stang even in the summer time, may take it out every few weeks. I don't drian anything just make sure the gas tank is full and the antifreeze is full and start it up every few days.
My 2 Cents I stored my 08' GT for 2 winters (07-08 & 08-09), NJ, used gas stabilizer plus battery tender and it always fires right up, never had an issue. The batteries tend to lose charge fast so I highly recommend the battery tender.
Mine is in storage right now...and I did use Sta-Bil..we'll see what happends when I get home from Iraq next yr...
I've tried it both ways and haven't seen a difference either way, so I'm using logic here. It seems best to me to put fresh oil in it when I'm going to drive it. Either way, it's going to collect moisture and such. I see it as being better to drain that moisture soaked oil and put fresh in before driving in the spring. If you put fresh oil in before the winter, when you go to drive it in the spring, it's not really fresh anymore. That's just how I've been looking at it.
That must suck having to store your hotrod half the year...... I moved 21 years ago to avoid winters! LOL patrick
I agree. One of the main issues with the longevity of today's oils is acid concentrations. Today's oils, especially synthetics are very stable and do a great job of holding particulates in suspension until they can be filtered out and at the same time provide much superior lubrication than the oils available just 20 years ago. Additionally modern oil filters perform better as well. Unfortunately, filters can't really filter out corrosive contaminents that can damage load bearing surfaces. Unfortunately a little bit of corrosion to load bearing surfaces have a more significant detrimental effect to engines that depend on tight, consistant fits to operate properly than would occur to older engines. The tight tolerances of modern engines dramatically reduce oil contamination by keeping the air/fuel charge where it belongs and the oil where it belongs. Though today's oil have very good detergent and acid neutralization packages added to them, acid contamination still can be a problem. For that reason, I'm inclined to change the oil and filter BEFORE storage. I don't believe much if any water or contaminents would get into the oil if the car is the stored inside considering how well sealed modern engines are today. Essentially you are storing the oil in a sealed container ie: the engine. Of course one could always change the oil again before putting the car back in service to make absolutely sure, but that would just be over-kill I beleive. JMO
Funny, Hawaii is where I plan on moving within the next 5 years. On average, I only have to actually store my car 4-5 months. But it still totally sucks. Plus I hate cold.
