- Nov 20, 2011
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Tork Tech With Stiegemeier Stage 6 ?s
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vertigasen
Active Member
I guess you mean an M112 because I have no clue what an M116 for a car.....but I do know there is a M116 Howitzer.
Do you have all of this done to the Heaton yet? If you have...sorry, if you havent....dont!.
What you are wanting from the Heaton is not likely. There are MANY Cobra owners out there that dont get 20 psi out of their stage 6 Steggy, and they have better airflow than a 2v. I think I saw a 6# lower and 2.76 pulley might get you 18 psi....so you will have to go bigger on the crank, or smaller on the upper. The 2.76 is about the limit because of belt slip becasue the pulley get gets too damn small.
Go search Google....here are some things to try:
steggy stage 6 max boost
steggy stage 6 results
And the list will go on from there. Dont get me wrong, the steggy upgrade is great for Cobra owners who want a little more and dont want to fork out the money for a Whipple or KB. The problem with the Heaton is the rotor design and it is a roots vs a screw blower. Roots typically produce more heat than a screw. Even by adding lighter components and a venom cooler....you are not addressing the REAL problem. IATs! Yeah, the Venom is great if you want to run higher boost (12 to maybe 16 psi range) but over that, I think you are going to be pusing IATs through the roof. The venom cooler is adressing the case heat and heat from the gears, not the air compression heat that eatons (or MOST any roots blowers have).
Do you have all of this done to the Heaton yet? If you have...sorry, if you havent....dont!.
What you are wanting from the Heaton is not likely. There are MANY Cobra owners out there that dont get 20 psi out of their stage 6 Steggy, and they have better airflow than a 2v. I think I saw a 6# lower and 2.76 pulley might get you 18 psi....so you will have to go bigger on the crank, or smaller on the upper. The 2.76 is about the limit because of belt slip becasue the pulley get gets too damn small.
Go search Google....here are some things to try:
steggy stage 6 max boost
steggy stage 6 results
And the list will go on from there. Dont get me wrong, the steggy upgrade is great for Cobra owners who want a little more and dont want to fork out the money for a Whipple or KB. The problem with the Heaton is the rotor design and it is a roots vs a screw blower. Roots typically produce more heat than a screw. Even by adding lighter components and a venom cooler....you are not addressing the REAL problem. IATs! Yeah, the Venom is great if you want to run higher boost (12 to maybe 16 psi range) but over that, I think you are going to be pusing IATs through the roof. The venom cooler is adressing the case heat and heat from the gears, not the air compression heat that eatons (or MOST any roots blowers have).
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LOL yup m112....damn cell phone! I havent done the stage 6 yet. The $1500 priceon the steggy got me excited.i've done a fair amount of research on boost levels. Yesterday I was on the phone with Bob stiegemeier for 2hrs. and we discussed rotor speed+boost for a while. Tork tech offers a 10" lower pulley which is like an 8lb lower. With 3.2 upper pulley u will be around 20k rpm on blower speed. He has recorded 2vs at 19,700 blower rpm making 21psi. The Max blower rpm with their setup is 23krpm. tork tech offers a 10rib upper and lower pulley setup, not to mention a thump racing tensioner.
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usaf_branham
15 Year Member
good luck dude. personally, if hindsight was 20/20 i would have gotten the KB 2.6l tuner kit and did what i had to do to make it work... i was being 'cheap' when i bought my 2.1, now i realize i should have bit the bullet and got the tuner kit because when i upgrade my shortblock, my blower will be my restriction... a 2.6 kb or a whipple should be good for what your looking for. Dont settle for a $hitty cobra eaton 112, ported or not.
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just upgrade to a T-Trim head unit? I'm all for the Tork Tek kits. They would probably be one of my first choices if I ever owned another modular car, but that seems like an awful big expense just to see 20psi on a boost gauge.
I don't care what Stiegemeier claims, making 20psi with an M112 blower no matter what is done to it is far from running it within it's efficency range. Reliable sure...but for how long and under what driving conditions? The blower just isn't physically large enough to produce and sustain repeated airflow levels like that without either superheating the air charge, or prematurely burning down the blower.
The T-Trim is much better suited to feed your airflow needs and you don't need to go through the trouble of selling one kit (at a loss) then paying for another.
Just food for though.
I don't care what Stiegemeier claims, making 20psi with an M112 blower no matter what is done to it is far from running it within it's efficency range. Reliable sure...but for how long and under what driving conditions? The blower just isn't physically large enough to produce and sustain repeated airflow levels like that without either superheating the air charge, or prematurely burning down the blower.
The T-Trim is much better suited to feed your airflow needs and you don't need to go through the trouble of selling one kit (at a loss) then paying for another.
Just food for though.
vertigasen
Active Member
I love the whipple. My IATs are very low for 18 psi. They are lower than my KB 2.1 @ 11 psi. I have seen 2.3 whipples on SVTP for 2k-2200. It doesnt have the "whine" of an eaton or KB, but it is so much fun.
A friend has a Cobra with a Steggy 6. He is making 16 psi and only putting down mid 500's with 4v's and IATs in the 150s-170s. At 16 psi, I was making 620 (on a really crappy reading Mustang dyno - but numbers are only half the story) and IATs 20 degrees over ambient.
Here is the bottom line. If you are wanting big boost and want to go with a positive displacement blower get a whipple, KB, or TVS.
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Tork tech also offers a tvs setup. They have 2. A 1900 and a 2300 I think. Any experience with one of these?
Still didn't answer my question why you've got such a hard on for the Tork Tek? Again, great kit, but you'll make every bit the powre and spend about 1/4 of the money just upgrading your current head unit? 
Are you under the impression that the T-Trim won't cut it, or are you just on a Tork Tek craze?
Are you under the impression that the T-Trim won't cut it, or are you just on a Tork Tek craze?
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Well
Well I agree it would be an easy upgrade and a sufficient increase. Im just interested in the tork tech because I've been piecing together a used hellraiser twin Turbo kit. Im going compound and the steggy is stage one in my project. I was just hoping for big power until I can install my hellraiser......its not a just hard on.....its a full blown boner! Veiny triumphant bastard! Lol
Still didn't answer my question why you've got such a hard on for the Tork Tek? Again, great kit, but you'll make every bit the powre and spend about 1/4 of the money just upgrading your current head unit?
Are you under the impression that the T-Trim won't cut it, or are you just on a Tork Tek craze?
Well I agree it would be an easy upgrade and a sufficient increase. Im just interested in the tork tech because I've been piecing together a used hellraiser twin Turbo kit. Im going compound and the steggy is stage one in my project. I was just hoping for big power until I can install my hellraiser......its not a just hard on.....its a full blown boner! Veiny triumphant bastard! Lol
Ah, well in that case, stick with some variation of an Eaton. Twin screws don't fair very well with compound boost.
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Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
Twin screws create compression within the unit itself. Increasing internal compression by feeding it with a turbo not only superheats the already hot air, but can be really hard on the blowers internal seals.
Easton's on the other hand don't compress the air within the unit, but in the manifold area past the blower (just like any centrifugal or turbo system). ACT are more easily controlled and no internal damage to the blower will occur.
That the do, but the also produce about the broadest powerband imaginable. All of the top end charge of a big turbo, with none of the bottom end boost lag and all of the off idle torque a PD blower can muster, without running out of breath in the upper ranges.
Compound cars are cool.
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compound cars are def cool
. this in the #1 reason why im going with a eaton, im bored of waitng for power. with my vortech the power comes in good, but its way up top. the eaton gives that bottom end tq/hp then bag here comes the real tq/hp from the turbos. .... thanks for the insite gearbanger. sounds like the old steggy will suffice. though i may not be able to unload the big boost and hp with the eaton quite yet, the wait for the hell raiser will be worth it!!!
. this in the #1 reason why im going with a eaton, im bored of waitng for power. with my vortech the power comes in good, but its way up top. the eaton gives that bottom end tq/hp then bag here comes the real tq/hp from the turbos. .... thanks for the insite gearbanger. sounds like the old steggy will suffice. though i may not be able to unload the big boost and hp with the eaton quite yet, the wait for the hell raiser will be worth it!!!
sneaky98gt
10 Year Member
It all depends on your goals. If you are looking for 800+ horsepower, and want to do anything other than dynoing it, forget the compound boost. I LOVE compound boost as much as anybody, but at over 800 hp, it simply isn't reliable. There is just too much heat/boost there to safely tune. Even on a great, safe tune (which is pretty hard to do at 800+ hp), one bad batch of gas, and bang. Don't believe me? Search around and see how many big horsepower compound boost Cobras are still around....
Now if you're looking for 750ish rwhp, compound boost is a great option. It's still capable of being tuned to allow some margin of error, and will produce ridiculous amounts of torque low in the rpm band. Personally, I'd port the blower to the max, and pulley it to around 8-10 pounds of boost. Then, throw in a single 67mm billet wheel turbo (or twin 57s if you have the money and want it to spool REALLY quick) at another 10 pounds or so. Can't say for sure on a 2-valve, but that's an easy, relatively safe 700-750 rwhp with a HUGE powerband on a 4-valve.
Yes, as confirmed, you cannot do compound boost with twin screws. The manufactures themselves say not to do it. Only with roots style.
On this whole "boost" thing. Boost is only a measure of restriction. It doesn't (necessarily) mean more horsepower. For example, a fully ported, fully pullied Eaton on a 4-valve Cobra is going to make around 15 psi of boost. Now, go stick that exact blower on NPI 2-valve heads. I'll bet the boost will go to 22+ psi, but want to bet which makes more power? That should be common sense. Bottom line being don't let someone sell something to you based on boost numbers.
The TVS is also a good option. At the power you're looking for, go with the 2300 for sure. They are GREAT blowers that are as efficient (or even slightly more) as twin screw blowers at less than 15 or so psi. Personally, I wouldn't bother spending $1500 on a M112 port job; I'd put that money towards a TVS instead. Heck, a fully ported, pullied 2300 would probably put you close to the goals you are looking for. On an auto car that'll hook, that combo is an EASY 9 second car.
Now if you're looking for 750ish rwhp, compound boost is a great option. It's still capable of being tuned to allow some margin of error, and will produce ridiculous amounts of torque low in the rpm band. Personally, I'd port the blower to the max, and pulley it to around 8-10 pounds of boost. Then, throw in a single 67mm billet wheel turbo (or twin 57s if you have the money and want it to spool REALLY quick) at another 10 pounds or so. Can't say for sure on a 2-valve, but that's an easy, relatively safe 700-750 rwhp with a HUGE powerband on a 4-valve.
Yes, as confirmed, you cannot do compound boost with twin screws. The manufactures themselves say not to do it. Only with roots style.
On this whole "boost" thing. Boost is only a measure of restriction. It doesn't (necessarily) mean more horsepower. For example, a fully ported, fully pullied Eaton on a 4-valve Cobra is going to make around 15 psi of boost. Now, go stick that exact blower on NPI 2-valve heads. I'll bet the boost will go to 22+ psi, but want to bet which makes more power? That should be common sense. Bottom line being don't let someone sell something to you based on boost numbers.
The TVS is also a good option. At the power you're looking for, go with the 2300 for sure. They are GREAT blowers that are as efficient (or even slightly more) as twin screw blowers at less than 15 or so psi. Personally, I wouldn't bother spending $1500 on a M112 port job; I'd put that money towards a TVS instead. Heck, a fully ported, pullied 2300 would probably put you close to the goals you are looking for. On an auto car that'll hook, that combo is an EASY 9 second car.
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Thanx for the insight. Im looking for 700rwhp with the twin 57s. I can buy the whole blower already ported with light weight rotors, vented shaft, and venom cooler for $1500. Im gonna rock the m112 and compound this bitch! I want at least 530+550 rwhp from the m112 by itself til.I finish the parts gathering for the turbos.
That's going to be a pretty tall order. I wouldn't count on seeing those numbers consistently. Shoot for less, hope for more. You do realize you'll want to slow the blower down once you add the turbo components, right? Of the two power adders, the turbo(s) is/are going to produce the least amount of heat, so I'd make it/them do the heavy lifting and just have the blower set up to carry the load until about 3,000RPM.
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Yes I plan on kicking the blower back. They usually don't touch the blowers on the cobras with hellraiser kits. It supplies enough to clear up lag. Im just bumping it up while I wait for the twins!
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So, when u say "tall order", are you saying that I can't produce 550rwhp with the steggy stage 6 on my built 2v? Or do you mean the 700rwhp with the steggy stage 6 and twin 57s?
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