Ok so after winter im planning on doing anther round of mods to the stang, including LCAs, UCAs, LCA relocation brackets, lowering, 4.10s, UDPs, possibly cmcv delete plates too. I have plans of much more mods in the future and i want to set this up suspension wise properly the first time around. Ive heard for people who need help with traction to get adjustable LCAs and UCAs as well as LCA relocation brackets. Im pretty mechanically inclined, I built my last car(wasnt a mustang) from the ground up basically but didnt have all these suspension mods all that was involved in that was springs and dampers. How difficult would it be for me to setup the adjustable LCA and UCAs? Do I need any special equipment to do so? All I need to know is that I can do it myself and some guidance and im good. Thanks for the help.
UCAs LCAs Relocation brackets, questions questions questions...
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Ken04
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not as much to it as you might think. Pretty much an unbolt the old and bolt up the new. The LCA relocate brackets are for lowered cars so the LCA's retain their geometry. The UCA is a stronger piece that also lets you adjust your pinion angle. You can do so also with the adj LCAs. What will help traction is the ability to keep things that should be in line, in line. Getting rid of the squishy rubber bushings is a big help. Depending on how low you go you'll need an adj track bar to keep the rear end centered in the car. The UCA will let you adjust your pinion angle after you lower it. The LCAs are more solid and don't deflect under hard acceleration like the stockers. Basically you pull the old parts off, adj your new parts to the same length and reinstall. From there you adj to where you want them.
You don't need adjustable lowers really; that just adds confusion. An adjustable upper will allow you to correct pinion angle if needed, usually after lowering or adding a one-piece aluminum driveshaft. For these parts I like the J & M design above all others: you can read why on their website.
After lowering, the lower control arms need the angle adjusted to prevent wheel hop, thus the lowering brackets. No brand preference here: just look for the thickest strongest ones.
An adjustable panhard may be needed when lowering to center the rear end.
This takes care of the rear. If you want further explanation on how to do anything, just ask. It's all very simple with the exception of adjusting the pinion angle: that requires an angle finder and a little math; still not rocket science though.
After lowering, the lower control arms need the angle adjusted to prevent wheel hop, thus the lowering brackets. No brand preference here: just look for the thickest strongest ones.
An adjustable panhard may be needed when lowering to center the rear end.
This takes care of the rear. If you want further explanation on how to do anything, just ask. It's all very simple with the exception of adjusting the pinion angle: that requires an angle finder and a little math; still not rocket science though.
I agree. Unless you're a hardcore drag racer who MUST have everything adjustable, having only the adjustable upper makes things so much easier.
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