what gauges for dry setup?

[89five.o]

Hey you guys I was just wondering what gauges are the most important for a dry nitrous setup. I was thinking bottle pressure and fuel pressure. I probably would get the bottle pressure one by itself for a while though since the ones I want are so expensive. Would I really even need the Fuel pressure if it's a dry kit and not a wet kit?

Also I'm sure I could find answers to my next questions if I search but since I'm typing I might as well ask.

For a 100-125 shot will I need colder plugs? At the moment I have the 5 prong platinum bosch plugs. Also what should my timing be set at? At the moment it's at 14 degrees. Is 10 degrees decent. I know there is a rule of thumb but I don't know it off hand. If it is 10 degrees I figured that I wouldn't have to purchase a timing retard, which would be nice. I appreciate any help. I really want to get this kit finalized and in my car!

 

[Grn92LX]

For stock heads try autolite 23's or 24's gapped around .030-.035"

FP gauge is a VERY smart idea. Not one of thos euseless underhood gauges, an external one so you can actually see whats going on. Bottle gauge is a must too.

I'd retard the timing to 6-8* then put the spout in.

Run 93 octane.

 

[89five.o]

What would I be looking for on these gauges? About 900psi of bottle pressure and what about a constant 38-40 psi fuel pressure?

 

[Grn92LX]

On a dry kit fuel pressure will spike to 70+ psi.

For bottle pressure, around 1000 psi is what you want.

 

[86bluecobra]

900-1000 psi for nos bottle.
If i were to run a dry kit i would want a wide band air fuel ratio gauge/set up. This way i know if my factory injection system is suppling enough gas for the Nitrous.
You do not want to go lean. Thats what melts pistons.
personally i would get a wet kit. Way safer in my opinon. Not much of a chance of going lean.

 

[RYC CUKR]

Both gauges are good ideas. Don't forget a window switch, won't keep you from banging it off the rev limiter but will shut the nitrous off before the nitrous shuts your motor off permenantely.

Ditch the platinum plugs and go with a set of autolite coppers, the 23s or 24s like Grn92 said, back the timing off 2 degrees for every 50 hp increase and all you should be ready to go racin.

Good luck and enjoy

 

[89five.o]

is the wide band air fuel ratio gauge the electronic one with lights that goes back and forth. If so I've heard that these are pretty much useless and highly inaccurate. Not sure if this was what you were talking about. For the pressure guage if I get one right away what pressure would I want to lift at in case of a lean condition? I picked up a dry kit with a lot of extras (window switch, automatic bottle opener etc.) for $150 so I'm just dealing with the dry kit. I don't plan on spraying larger than a 125 shot.

 

[89five.o]

Both gauges are good ideas. Don't forget a window switch, won't keep you from banging it off the rev limiter but will shut the nitrous off before the nitrous shuts your motor off permenantely.

Ditch the platinum plugs and go with a set of autolite coppers, the 23s or 24s like Grn92 said, back the timing off 2 degrees for every 50 hp increase and all you should be ready to go racin.

Good luck and enjoy

So by this I should be good at 9 degrees timing if I'm currently at 14 with a 125 shot? Also do any of you know if you can get a rev limiter for the msd 6a ignition. My car came with this so I had no choice in getting the 6al. I really appreciate all the help. I'm trying to get as much information on this as possible. I still need to purchass a purge kit, blowdown tube,painless wiring ashtray switches and a few small missing parts from the system before I can put it in. I'm not sure if I should get a bottle heater or not being that I live in the desert and it normally doesn't get very cold here.

 

[Grn92LX]

Get a 255 high pressure fuel pump. Stick with a dry kit. I've had both wet and dry and my dry kit was MUCH better. I would back it off to 8* for a 125 shot. 6* will be safer.

Do NOT keep the bottle in your trunk all the time. ONly when you're going to use it.

YOu don't need a wideband but it doesn't hurt. No a wideband is not one of thos useless back n forth light show gauges. A good wideband is $300-$500.

 

[89five.o]

one step ahead with the 255. Had one put in when my tank was dropped. What do you think about the bottle heater. I live in New Mexico and while the temperature does drop everynow and then for the most part the temperature is nice. Why don't I want to leave the bottle in the trunk?

 

[Marlboro_Man]

one step ahead with the 255. Had one put in when my tank was dropped. What do you think about the bottle heater. I live in New Mexico and while the temperature does drop everynow and then for the most part the temperature is nice. Why don't I want to leave the bottle in the trunk?

Get the bottle heater if you can afford it, dynotune nitrous .com has a nice one for a good price. Definatly get the bottle pressure gauge. Get a fuel safety cutoff switch. Ditch those spark plugs you got now and get some autolite 23 or 24 plugs as suggested.

HAVE FUN!!!

You don't leave it in the trunk because, hot trunk = high nitrous bottle pressure = BOOM!!!

 

[bubba-dough]

You don't leave it in the trunk because, hot trunk = high nitrous bottle pressure = BOOM!!!

Not condoning leaving the bottles in a vehicle all the time but they do have safety pop-off valves for when pressure gets to high they relieve it...it won't go boom. It will scare the crap out of you when it happens but its harmless. That is the point in the safety blowdown tube. It funnels the relieved pressure out of the cabin area.

Also a fuel pressure gauge is just as important as a bottle pressure gauge especialy when running a dry kit.

 

[89five.o]

any of you know where I could get autometer c2 gauges cheap? Those are the ones I'm looking at right now. If you know of any that are similar or are white faced ones that glow like the cobalts let me know. The prices on the c2's are ridiculous