I currently am running a 65 mm throttle body,bumped timing to 13*,flowmaster cat back, underdrive pulleys, k&n filter with removed silencer and remove ac. How much power would i gain with a c&l 73mm mas air meter with stock 19lb injectors? Also is there anybody located near the sandy gresham area
What kind of power?
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Rootus
Officially Addicted
Assuming from your username that you have a 5.0, I'd say that you would be best off working on the intake -- that is the bottleneck on a stock 5.0. Then as money allows, heads & cam, headers, then MAF.
Dave
Dave
viperos
New Member
yeah, I agree... save the MAF for a later date... get a CAI! (seriously... it really helps...) the MAF is only for like 300/350+ RWHP... no point really until then... unless it's an unbelievable deal... but you COULD loose HP if you get it w/ low numbers...
Tylerb59
Banned
Larger MAF and TB are great when you have higher lift cams or higher flow heads... and of course a supercharger or turbo which require more airflow / induction.
ddonaca351
Active Member
I disagree with Dave on his above post (hairycanary), I think the biggest bottleneck to performance is your stock H-pipe. Try a hi-flow X from Bassani (my fav) or if youre emissions exempt, an offroad one. You will probably gain a solid 10 hp from just the H-pipe. With a full exhaust, MSD ignition, timing @ 14 and KnN in box filter, my full weight / ac equipped / 3.08 gear / no power adder lx went 14.0s at 100 all day long on regular street tires. (that was .7 improvement over stock). I agree an intake, TB, MAF are great mods, but it doesnt do much good to get more air in, if it can't get out. Just .02 from the cheap seats....
DD-
(the other Dave)
DD-
(the other Dave)
YardSpecial
New Member
Well the the truth is this, better to run a bigger MAF then a bigger TB.
I run a 73 C&L MAF and a stock TB.
Dyno numbers don't lie...............
I run a 73 C&L MAF and a stock TB.
Dyno numbers don't lie...............
The factory MAS and 65MM TB should be good down to run low 13's in the 1/4 mile,anything lower will need more flow for best power gain.
A set of header in the 1 1/2 " or the more future upgrade friendly 1 5/8 " will give you a good shot in the arm,and you could get them "Used" almost for nothing nowday. A Offroad pipe will be good too if you have a 5 speed car.
Take care.
A set of header in the 1 1/2 " or the more future upgrade friendly 1 5/8 " will give you a good shot in the arm,and you could get them "Used" almost for nothing nowday. A Offroad pipe will be good too if you have a 5 speed car.
Take care.
Toddzilla
Banned
ddonaca351 said:I disagree with Dave on his above post (hairycanary), I think the biggest bottleneck to performance is your stock H-pipe. Try a hi-flow X from Bassani (my fav) or if youre emissions exempt, an offroad one. You will probably gain a solid 10 hp from just the H-pipe. With a full exhaust, MSD ignition, timing @ 14 and KnN in box filter, my full weight / ac equipped / 3.08 gear / no power adder lx went 14.0s at 100 all day long on regular street tires. (that was .7 improvement over stock). I agree an intake, TB, MAF are great mods, but it doesnt do much good to get more air in, if it can't get out. Just .02 from the cheap seats....
DD-
(the other Dave)
Conversely, you can't get more air out if you can't get it in.
Lots of mods help the 5.0. However, I will go so far as to say the BIGGEST bottleneck is the stock heads.
Basically, if you replace the entire intake and exhaust tract you are ok. That's what I did.
WaterPog
Founding Member
The intake is much more of a cork than the stock heads are.
My thoughts on an upgrade path are:
1) Gears
2) Exhaust
3) Intake tract (From the filter through the TB)
4) Heads, Cam, Intake and rockers (probably a fuel pump and 24# injectors along with this one)
The top half of the motor really needs to be looked at as a unit rather than individual components. It's all got to work together to really work right and from a labor standpoint there's no sence in doing it a peice at a time.
$.02
My thoughts on an upgrade path are:
1) Gears
2) Exhaust
3) Intake tract (From the filter through the TB)
4) Heads, Cam, Intake and rockers (probably a fuel pump and 24# injectors along with this one)
The top half of the motor really needs to be looked at as a unit rather than individual components. It's all got to work together to really work right and from a labor standpoint there's no sence in doing it a peice at a time.
$.02
WaterPog
Founding Member
Oh, and it never hurts to toss in some nitrous and/or traction tires at any point on the path while you're at it.
Black 93 Fox
Active Member
Visceral
New Member
I was making 236 rwhp/298 rwtq with the stock heads/cam/intake/rockers/cai etc. And I just bought a Densecharger full length CAI. I'll take the car to the dyno and put it on for a 3rd run to see if its worth anything, but Im not sure it will be worth more than 5hp at the most. Advertising says 10-12 but I doubt it. It was $155 shipped. I have already done a 70mm ProM maf and a 65mm TB, so theres not much "stock longblock" stuff left to do.
chris
chris
viperos
New Member
hey Cav... remember too though, you're running 2.5" exhaust the whole way... and some people have "proved" that that looses HP, but you showed them wrong too... I think it mainly depends on the car, and ultimately, how lucky you are (how well your car was built) (like I got the max HP gains from my CAI and Pulleys...)
-btw, on that dyno, I was running a 210thermo too forgot about that... put it in for the wintertime...
-btw, on that dyno, I was running a 210thermo too
forgot about that... put it in for the wintertime...
Toddzilla
Banned
viperos said:hey Cav... remember too though, you're running 2.5" exhaust the whole way... and some people have "proved" that that looses HP, but you showed them wrong too... I think it mainly depends on the car, and ultimately, how lucky you are (how well your car was built) (like I got the max HP gains from my CAI and Pulleys...)
-btw, on that dyno, I was running a 210thermo too
There is no such thing as a factory freak.
As far as exhaust goes.....
How well exhaust works on a given car is largely a function of how far from optimum the exhaust is for a given engine.
In other words, if you were to put a stock 95 GT exhaust on my cobra, dyno it, put a full 2.5 system on it and dyno it again. I'd have dramatic gains compared to if you were to just put that exhaust on a stock 95 GT.
WaterPog
Founding Member
Toddzilla
Banned
WaterPog said:the GT and cobra exhaust in '94 and '95 is identicle
I know that, but for the sake of the example I didn't want to confuse anybody.
EDIT - and my car doesn't have stock exhaust.
WaterPog
Founding Member
Nobody said:
the point was that his post implied (intentionally or not) that the GT exhaust was more restrictive, which isn't the case.
Todzilla said:
But yes, the cobra would probably see more of a gain than the GT because it allready has better breathing up the line.
