I want to do a rear battery kit. Which one should I order and from where? How easy is a proper install? I need to go to the track in the next to weeks or so. Also does anyone have detailed pictures of the install or a clean carberated engine compartment after the install?? ON SECOND THOUGHT I DONT WANT TO HASSLE WITH THIS, Where can I buy the nice bullet kits for mounting the battery up front, the battery holder was broken when I bought the car and before I put it on the road I want to fix the problem, thanks
Go ahead and do it! It will clean up the engine bay, help with weight transfer, and looks trick! I would get the Taylor alum box ( what I have) its a straight foreward install, comes with everthing you need, and is NHRA approved. Anyone with basic auto knowledge should be able to complete the install in an hour or two...DO IT!!
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems. One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block. One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground. The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars Picture courtesy timewarped1972 Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice. For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225 is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will be good to go. Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring. There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire. Wire the battery to the two 1/4" posts as shown in the diagram. The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing. Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/4" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the Moroso diagram. How it works: The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies power to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power. See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring and lots more… http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif
I used the taylor kit, with a cut off switch. If i did it again, i would of pieced it together and used the moroso box, it's nicer and since it's not metal their is less chance of shorting things out if you are messing with the battery.
