where can i get the bushing that go on rear end that connect to the upper control arms. If i purchase a new set of control arms they dont come with the bushings that go on the rear.
You should be able to get them where you buy your control arms or at any auto parts store I would think. They can be difficult to remove and install though. I got the Ford Cobra bushings for mine along with an install tool from www.maximummotorsports.com.
what does the install tool look like? i got them from summit and they came with some c clips? i dont no where they would go tho. Also is there any kind of trick to get the old bushings out?
Most parts houses (Autozone, Checker, Advance, etc.) have them available through companies like TRW, Moog, McQuay-Norris (of no relation to Chuck Norris), etc. ... and I *think* that Energy Suspension has them available in poly, as well, although I think they're probably part of a total-chassis bushing kit. But then, considering the work that goes into unhooking the things, knocking (or burning) out the old bushings, pressing in the new ones, and so on ... why not just spend the bucks on a set of aftermarket performance upper and lower control arms and gain not only new bushings but better traction out of the deal? Do it once, do it right, and be done. Last I checked, lower control arm bushings were something stupid like $40 apiece, depending on if you have round or oval bushings, and the uppers were similarly pricey ... just for OEM rubber CRAP that will flex and slop around under a load. Yayyyy, wheel hop! So, considering you can score a decent set of upper/lower CA's for under or around $300 and (theoretically) never have to fiddle with 'em again, the extra cost is worth it, IMO.
If you've ever fish-tailed in a Mustang and recovered it after soiling your shorts, you know what a crappy situation that can be. Replacing the bushings in a stock Mustang suspension system with no pan-hard bar will make this situation much worse and very likely, unrecoverable. Stiffer urethane bushings cause more bind in the suspension. It may even push that over-steer "swing" out further (a good thing). The trouble, is that when it DOES occur, it will likely be pretty harsh. Much worse than with a fresh set of rubber bushings. It's true that the rubber bushings deflect more than the urethane bushings but it's also true that the stock 4-link on our cars DEPEND on that deflection in order to function properly. If you plan to run all urethane bushings you should at minimum, have stiffer lower control arms and pan-hard bar to prevent bind and lateral axle movement. If we're talking about a straight line drag car that makes no turns... disregard all of the above.
The tool pushes the old bushing out and pushes the new bushing in. The tool looks like a steel cup with a bolt and a couple of thick flat washers. It works really well. At $35 or so it sounds expensive but it really makes the whole job much, much easier especially if the rear is still in the car. I don't have a clue where the c clips go. Which bushings did you buy? Part number? I used the heavy duty Ford bushings in mine.
these are the exact ones i got from summit for 31.95 i couldnt find the install tool tho. Where did u get it from?
The bottle of Friction Modifier and the C-clips are for internal rear end work like if you were adding new gears or rebuilding the traction lock. You don't need them to replace the bushings. Most likely someone put them in the box accidentially. Set them aside for another day. The install tool is available from http://www.maximummotorsports.com/i...m/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=21_99
