Will these put me in the 260rwhp area?

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Isaac-1 said:
The timing adjuster will be useless with the dynotune, my guess would be you will see 250 RWHP at best with that combo, you will probably need to add something like a mid pipe to get over 260.

That's what I was thinking. I don't think the MAF and t/a are worth it if I'm getting a tune. What kind of midpipe would you reccomend? I'm thinking I'll go with the MAC Prochamber.
 
StangDriver5650 said:
That's what I was thinking. I don't think the MAF and t/a are worth it if I'm getting a tune. What kind of midpipe would you reccomend? I'm thinking I'll go with the MAC Prochamber.
I love how the Prochamber sounds. Gives good gain also :)
 
well, when you get a dynotune, they adjust the timing for you with the computer, it is a good mod, unless you have a dyno tune.

pulleys dont do crap on new GTs, maybe 2-3 hp. there was a big thread last week on this.
 
Like all the other responses indicated, skip the pullies, timing adjuster, C&L MAF, and C&L inlet tube. Get rid of the stock H pipe. Everything else looks good with the most important piece being someone who knows how to dyno tune.

I have pullies and C&L MAF - waste of money and time.

I think C&L inlet pipe looks cool, but it's not necessary.
 
It has been stated on here before that some tuners will laugh you back out the front door if you drive in with a C&L MAF. Something about the lack of tunability with that particular MAF. So I hope you skipped that. I have a feeling Tim will recommend a Dr. Gas X-pipe. If you don't want to plop the money down on that, you might want to try a UPR X-pipe. I got mine for $150-shipped.
 
You don't need a timing adjuster if your getting a tune. The chip will add timing for best performance. And you do not need a 80mm maf with a tune either. The gains people see from the maf are from untuned cars that lean out the a/f, When your gettinga dynotune, the a/f fuel will be leaned anyway.

I'm making 256rwhp corrected on a dynojet with a x-pipe, flows, pulleys, cold air, and a dyno tune with diablo chip software.

Josh
 
if you get a plenum , TB , midpipe (UPR cheaper or DR GAS if you have the money ) dont worry about the SES light Tim can cut that off , if not full lengths , catback if you dont already have it , gears wont help dyno , but you will love them , and drop in K&N , let Tim work his magic with that , if you fall short im sure by the time he takes some time on the dyno with your car , he will know exactly what to do to hit your mark , but im sure that will get you close if not over what you are reaching for .
 
Redfire03GT said:
Look at my sig. I'm at exactly 260. It should give you a general idea. Not to say you need these exact mods but, it should show you what range you're looking at.

Are your numbers SAE corrected? I can't tell from your dyno sheet.

Also, what mods. are your "before" and what did you add to get to your "after" numbers?

Thanks in advance.
 
The C&L 80mm MAF, inlet tube and TB/plenum combo have been dyno'd at 22.6 rwhp and 28.1 rwtq peak. This was with one of the Optimizer to help tune the A/F on the dyno. I'd say that's a pretty good gain. I wouldn't buy the inlet tube, would go with the cheap e-bay CAI and chop off the 90* bend, same thing for about 65$.

Link to the article.

http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/cnl.html He DOES have a prochamber and pullies though already so that probably helped some