Winter Storage tips
- Thread starter calgarycobra
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I didn't worry about fuel stabilizer at all last year and I never had a problem. Twenty years I think it would be a problem with the technology of todays motors and gas I think it's a non issue. Just make sure it's filled up.
If you have a jack and four jack stands put the car up but make sure you put the jack stands underneath the suspension to keep it loaded. (i.e. - under the lower control arms and under the rear axle) This keeps the suspension from hanging all winter plus your tires won't get any flat spots.
I usually wait till spring to wax/clay bar and all that jazz, but if you have the time go for it. If I get time before the car goes away I'm gonna try to get that done, if not it can wait till spring.
Pull out the battery so don't have to jump it in the spring. Make sure that you don't store it on concrete without putting boards underneath it or the floor won't be to happy.
That's about all I can think of for now.
If you have a jack and four jack stands put the car up but make sure you put the jack stands underneath the suspension to keep it loaded. (i.e. - under the lower control arms and under the rear axle) This keeps the suspension from hanging all winter plus your tires won't get any flat spots.
I usually wait till spring to wax/clay bar and all that jazz, but if you have the time go for it. If I get time before the car goes away I'm gonna try to get that done, if not it can wait till spring.
Pull out the battery so don't have to jump it in the spring. Make sure that you don't store it on concrete without putting boards underneath it or the floor won't be to happy.
That's about all I can think of for now.
redhotcomet
New Member
I believe that bit about setting a battery on a concrete floor is a myth. It originated in the days when batteries had glass plates in them. If you set one of these batteries down too hard, on concrete or not, the plates would break and ruin the battery. 
Just my opinion.
Just my opinion.
96GT Toy
Founding Member
I have owned my 96 GT from new and store it every winter.
I have always used the same routine:
- wash clean
- fill the gas tank and use Sta-Bil
- change the oil and filter
- inflate the tires to max tire pressure
- place a bar of soap in the interior (suppose to keep any mice away)
- park in my sister in-laws indoor condo parking area
- remove the negative post connector on the battery
- cover the car
- return in the spring, reconnect the battery and drive away (still running on the original battery; 1996)
good luck
I have always used the same routine:
- wash clean
- fill the gas tank and use Sta-Bil
- change the oil and filter
- inflate the tires to max tire pressure
- place a bar of soap in the interior (suppose to keep any mice away)
- park in my sister in-laws indoor condo parking area
- remove the negative post connector on the battery
- cover the car
- return in the spring, reconnect the battery and drive away (still running on the original battery; 1996)
good luck
Don't quote me but a true synthetic doesn't break down like a conventional oil does. I read once that in testing Mobil 1 lated well over 15000 miles and did not break down. It still protected just as good. Redline has been saying it's oils are good for 25000 mile intervals. They stand behind that claim too.
Mobil, Redline, Royal Purple, Torco, are all true synthetics.
So a real sythetic shouldn't be corrosive when used even at long change intervals. So over the winter shouldn't be a problem. But as I said don't quote me.
I wouldn't trust Castrol, or Quaker State synthetics. They are junk.
Mobil, Redline, Royal Purple, Torco, are all true synthetics.
So a real sythetic shouldn't be corrosive when used even at long change intervals. So over the winter shouldn't be a problem. But as I said don't quote me.
I wouldn't trust Castrol, or Quaker State synthetics. They are junk.
CanadaStang
New Member
Old oil contains combustion by-products and other nasty stuff that can attack bearings and the cylinder walls, so it's a good idea to change it before storage. If your car will be in cold storage, it's a good idea to change the oil again in the spring before you drive it, as condensation can form inside the engine from the temp. changes. [If you've ever popped the hood on your car in the winter and seen frost all over the engine, you'll know what I mean]Silvr04GT said:
CanadaStang
New Member
I still change my oil before winter storage even if it's synthetic, true it doesn't break down but it will still contain acids from combustion, possibly even moisture from short drives.
CanadaStang
New Member
Silvr04GT said:
Lots of people don't bother changing it again in the spring and you probably don't have to as the filter should take out any moisture that may accumulate. I do, but I could be going to the extreme.
CanadaStang
New Member
I just checked the owner's manual for my bike [car's manual doesn't say anything about storage] and it recommends changing the oil before storage but doesn't say anything about doing it again after storage.
I didn't last year. I gave it a change first thing in the spring. Having oil sit in the pan that isn't circulating won't hurt any bearings.
Now if you let that oil sit for like two years, drive it for a while then change it you might run into problems. Over the winter, especially garaged, i wouldn't worry too much.
Now if you let that oil sit for like two years, drive it for a while then change it you might run into problems. Over the winter, especially garaged, i wouldn't worry too much.
