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sav22rem22 · Jan 30, 2024

Also, has anyone ever seen a pivot stud like this? I’ve got a new one and while the top part looks identical I’m not sure what the cylindrical piece below it is. It also seems a little too wobbly which I was under the impression that the pivot stud shouldn’t move at all.

sav22rem22 · Jan 30, 2024

AeroCoupe said:
Yeah man that flywheel is a 50oz unit but it need to be resurfaced badly. The pressure plate has hot spots, the pilot bearing is junk, and the clutch plate is suspect as well.

I would take the flywheel to a machine shop and have them resurface it and get a clutch kit for it. That would never go back in one of my cars.

I should’ve mentioned I’ve already got brand new everything sitting in the house waiting to go in tomorrow or whenever weather permits. Everything seems to have been done in such a bad way it really makes me curious as to the life this car had before me.

ta66 · Jan 30, 2024

Thank you! We’re not done yet, and I’m sure there will be more things to do but I’d like to express my utmost appreciation for all the help and advice we’ve gotten from the members of this forum.

LILCBRA · Jan 30, 2024

Here's something that might be helpful for you - was thinking about the harness that runs from the ignition module to the distributor and found that Painless offers a kit to install the Duraspark in older vehicles complete with a wiring diagram. I'm sure you can use it to decipher which wires are which to check them for continuity.

chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf

LILCBRA · Jan 30, 2024

As I mentioned earlier, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check continuity of the circuits/connections I listed above to be sure there isn't a wire grounding itself out and preventing the signal from firing the coil. It could be as easy as a bad wire or bad ground keeping you from firing this thing up!

JackH · Jan 30, 2024

Freakinstang said:
Hey Jack reread post 18 it sounds very much like you have a fried fusible link or 2

i'll check on that, thanks.

AeroCoupe · Jan 30, 2024

Yeah man that flywheel is a 50oz unit but it need to be resurfaced badly. The pressure plate has hot spots, the pilot bearing is junk, and the clutch plate is suspect as well.

I would take the flywheel to a machine shop and have them resurface it and get a clutch kit for it. That would never go back in one of my cars.

AeroCoupe · Jan 30, 2024

Installation of cylinder heads and valve train:

How To Install 302/351 Mustang Cylinder Heads and Valvetrain (79-95)

Landan shows how to install 302/351 mustang cylinder heads and valvetrain!If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to install heads and the needed accessories f...

youtu.be

Installation of lower intake:

How To Install 302/351 Mustang Intake Manifold (79-95)

302/351 intake manifold install (79-95)In this video, we will show you the general idea and installation procedures when installing an intake manifold and co...

youtu.be

AeroCoupe · Jan 30, 2024

Strainer or filter. Go here and the replacement of the strainer/filter is at about 7:15

DIY - How to install an injector rebuild service kit

Here's a quick and simple how to video on how to install an injector rebuild kit, or an injector service kit as they are sometimes called.Fuel injectors are ...

youtu.be

ta66 · Jan 30, 2024

Hi all, I’m @b_arrington ’s son. We finished the continuity tests and I think we’ve figured it out! Long story short, we confirmed continuity to all pins and their intended sensors, except for pins 6 and 10. We were reading pin 10 as the ACT, and didn’t know what pin 6 went to because it should’ve been the ACT. We then realized that pin 10 should’ve been the CANP, but we don’t have one of those and so whoever put together the engine switched the ACT and CANP plugs. We confirmed this with another test after finding the CANP wire.

JackH · Jan 30, 2024

LILCBRA said:
I really don't know why there is more than one connection like that, the idea just popped into my head this morning. It's possible that they made 2 to install 2 separate capacitors with different ratings? Otherwise I'm at a loss.

The thick gauge yellow wire is spliced off the headlight wire but I still don't know why. Also, I took apart the distributor again and have good ground at the pickup coil so if it is the pick up coil, it's not a ground issue. Also, I confirmed the ignition coil is in fact good. No conclusive info but we are starting to eliminate parts of the circuit which is always good. I might buy a higher quality pickup coil because i did the test in the video you attached and I didn't get any beeping (continuity) but I might have done it wrong since it is a 3 prong connector.

TOOLOW91 · Jan 30, 2024

Mustang5L5 said:
I only partially shaved my engine bay and did a partial wire tuck. I am pretty sure i had the cable come out of the iriginal hole and then immediately routed it into the fender, but I will need to check. From there i ran it along the outside of the upper rail. You can kinda see it in this pic. I'll have to go doube check what hole it came through the firewall. I still have cruise so I doubt i used that hole for the cable.

View attachment 717479

Exactly this . Something is off with his routing . I’ve done 2-3 like that and no issue

sav22rem22 · Jan 30, 2024

A little update I found after I cleaned up for the night. The throw out bearing was absolutely shot which I already figured since I could feel it in the pedal and I could hear it making awful noises. Hopefully if I can get the dowels early enough tomorrow everything will be back together.

Potomus Pete · Jan 30, 2024

This weekend I'm doing rears. Never done them before, but they have been sitting in the garage. Gotta get this brake light to go away

JD1964 · Jan 30, 2024

I took a test drive and the brakes are responding well. The fluid change was a noticeable improvement!

sav22rem22 · Jan 30, 2024

CAMTWO1070 said:
When you go do the throw out bearing it might actually be the pilot bearing which was an issue on another vehicle I obtained as it turned out that owner didnt stab the trans in straight and must of used the bolts to pull the transmission to the bellhousing because the roller bearing got pushed out of the bushing which gave zero support for the input shaft ....In the AP store the whole roller bearing/bushing assembly is $50 and just the roller bearing is $15...

In my case the TOB was good but had to replace the front input shaft bearing in the T-5 along with the pilot bearing..

Theres a special way to install the pilot bearing too if you buy the roller bearing alone as one side is slightly more open than the other to allow for slight installation misalignment...............

As for the flywheel ...If you happen to remove it take pictures of the backside of the flywheel .............Im curious like that & Thanks ..

Good Luck

As requested, here is a picture of the back of the flywheel and some pictures of the rest of the clutch assembly. I haven’t found anything out of the ordinary so far.

One thing is for certain though. I was definitely lied to about the clutch that was in the car. I was told it had a center force clutch in it and from what I’m seeing it looks to be a stock replacement clutch. Also the bell housing had no alignment dowels in it at all. I’ve got a guy local that’s got some spares I’ll be picking them up tomorrow.

996stang · Jan 30, 2024

Mustang5L5 said:
That is a V8 k-member.

cool so with some modifications it should work. thank you.

996stang · Jan 30, 2024

Mustang5L5 said:
There are differences in the 88-93 4cyl k-members vs the V8. The 4cyl are narrower.

You can tell by the spring perch cups which one you have. Do you have a pic? It’s hard to describe but visually easy to tell.

More info here

Fox - k member differences

Ok! I have a 1989 4 cyl. donor car. Is it true that the control arm mounting points are narrower? I would like to run longer control arms from the sn95 chassis on my fox and this I think would help me. My fox already has sn95 spindles paired with 2000 cobra r brakes. I am attempting a...

stangnet.com

Got hit with some snow this morning of course.

996stang · Jan 30, 2024

Cody__7 · Jan 30, 2024

I have an 02 v6 and the light on the buttons constantly on when the cars started the light is constantly on

996stang · Jan 30, 2024

Mustang5L5 said:
Like said, the main differences between the 87-95 K-member and 96-04 K-member (aside from engine mounts) is the location of the 4 rear bolts on the small pad. You'll have to do some grinding/modification to get those to work.

Also, steering rack is about 1" higher on the 79-95 K-member. This may create a bumpsteer issue with 96+ spindles because the tie rod location should be 1" higher to compensate. Bumpsteer kits don't work in this situation because the tie rod end needs to move UP into the area where the tie rod spindle mount currently occupies.

Good to know, that is something i will have to keep an eye on. I have heard of bump-steer either being terrible or no big deal depending on severity so thats something guess ill just have to see myself. for anyone else ever wondering ive also found the suspension stuff is all useable as well, the control arms are 3/4 inch longer on the SN chassis, and the shock mounting side on the spindle side is a touch different but everything will bolt up especially if using the stock sn shock and a arms.

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