When I thought of putting a T5 in my car I found the used Bellhousings were selling for ridiculous prices...
Don't waste your time, just buy a new one for not much more....

That museum thing cracked me up, lol, wasn't there another one called Hypertech back then too? I remember they were always on Muscle Mustangs and fast forss along with the other gimmicks.

crossy said:

ya, TRANS filter. lol- I already bought the Ford FL2 fluid and Rear gear oil to service the car, so need to know what trans this car has and Based on the 11.9 qts. I have to assume that is WITH a filter change and since there is no dang dipstick and a filter can hold a whole quart in some instances, need to get this right . My local parts guy only shows a 6R80 trans but i thought that was only the V8GT models, and I'm a base(premium) V6 model.

Click to expand...

It's the 5r55s transmission

So I just ran into something interesting while looking up different scenarios for your situation. I know we mentioned the ballast resistor and how we're pretty sure that it's ok, but I'm on RockAuto's site and checked the ballast resistor basically just because I was curious how much it cost and it came back with this:





That's not what I was expecting to see when it's listed as a resistor! But those ends look awfully familiar when compared to mystery wire #2...... So I went through ALL of the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual and the only 2 places I found a black with yellow hash were on the rear window defrost circuit and the AC clutch circuit. I'm going to guess that mystery wire #2 is for the AC circuit, so it's not important to get the car running. But, if this wire goes to the ballast resistor circuit and you can readily identify it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check it for corrosion and continuity, although I think we've pretty much ruled out a problem with that circuit.

I also opened the first page of the ignition chapter in my Haynes manual and found that the coil is only rated at 8v and the ballast is 1.5 ohms. And I said something about checking the clearance for the pickup coil to see if it's something like .015"-.030" - that is not adjustable as designed and is checked by a voltage drop, so the previous test I shared is probably the way to go in that case.




So, since the coil is rated at 8v, the 8v measurement you noticed earlier is what it's supposed to read which means that that circuit is apparently working.

You mentioned that you checked the pickup coil but weren't 100% sure you checked it correctly since it's a 3 wire connector - you'll connect the leads of the meter to the same color coming from the pickup. In the pic of the one I'm looking at on RockAuto it would be the purple and orange(?) wires.

Garage art...never selling it as I will never get one back. I don't drive it much but its there when I want to and still loads of fun.

Get an Explorer upper and lower as you will pay the same price.

www.car-part.com

What you are looking for are '96-'01 Ford Explorer or '97-'01 Mercury Mountaineer as they had the 5.0's. The egr passage in the upper and lower wend away late '97.

That is the correct bell housing and that sucks man.

www.car-part.com

You can search salvage yards on this site but call if you find what you need as I have found it’s not 100% accurate. Typically I can find parts on there way cheaper than what some people think they are worth on eBay.

Noobz347 said:

You're referring to the backlight in the button and not the Traction Control [On/Off] indicator?

Click to expand...

No the physical button itself when the cars on the light on the buttons always on

Neighbor swears by the speed bleeders too..... He has been using them on his " 6 Million dollar" Jeep......