Yes ran a vacume test, that's the odd part. When it's idling it checks out fine, once the idle drops the readings are all over the place when it dies. Fire it back up after a bit all fine again. Are there any vacume accesories that are switched at a time or point in warm up?

Got a vacuum gauge?

AeroCoupe said:

On the premium seats the module is under the seat so none of the switches are on the seat as they are on the touchscreen in the car. This is how it is on a 2019 California Special that my niece's husband drives daily.

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Ahh that sucks. I have not paid attention to that. I was thinking we still had individual seat switches as well. I'll look at the next one I get in.

85GTStangGuy said:

Not sure if you noticed, but I think your bolts are leaking... get that fixed first, imo.

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they stop leaking when you tighten them up, duh, didn't you know that??

sit'n back in the house!
stuck the right header in the hole, wish I'd noticed the header tube was up against the block plate where the starter bolts on when I test fitted them, it would have been easy-peasy to grind off a smidge then but NOOOOOOOO, it was not so bad though.

Not sure if you noticed, but I think your bolts are leaking... get that fixed first, imo.

R82148V said:

Are there any clears you recommend that don't have that yellow hue?
I'm also confused on what kind of spray to use once rim has been stripped down to bare Aluminum. Isnt there special paint for that?

Pertaining to the finish level, what do you all prefer? Matte, Satin, High Gloss?

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If your using rattle can, not much to be able to look at.... If your mixing a gal/qt of paint, just take off the lid and check it... Its been so long for me I am sure most of the brands I used are retired......

Nice boots.....

Check the brake switch on the brake pedal that might be malfunctioning. The window it probably unrelated

When you were swapping out the clusters on these type of cars and you have to take out the entire thing, you are going to have to get the safety disabled or be able to get the new cluster married to the car it is going into or the anti-theft will not allow the car to start

I actually had the same problem. What I was doing was replacing the 95 engine with a 02 engine. When I put everything together the location of the cruise control had a chip in that hard plastic going around the wire and it caught in the open position which caused my clutch issues. If you have worked on the top end of the engine at all and that cable is exposed with the hard plastic where it can get caught on something that may be causing the same issue.

So there is a great video by Unity Mostorsports Garage on YouTube search - Camshaft Lobe Separation Angle: The Untold Truth of LSA!! How to Pick LSA the right way@DavidVizard

This was another testing video for LSA only with same cam specs and shows how it performed on a 2 valve...

Basically picked up 12-15hp going from a 114plus LSA down to a 112 LSA... then picked up another 10-14hp going from a 112 to 108lsa...
Basically gained 20 to 30 more HP just from the LSA change...

I belive most cam companies design there cams towards smoother idles with the intent of a stage 2 or 1 cam NA that is still inline with adding a supercharger, turbo chargers or other type of power adders.... Looks like cam companies never really tested their products to get max NA power .... most of their cams are geared for normal bolt ons.... now most of the cams will fit under stock heads... for those that have ported heads, TFS Heads or rebuilt engines, you are really leaving a lot on the table with an off the shelf cam..

For a 108lsa, you will likely need notched pistons but you can notch with the heads off or have the pistons notched when you do a rebuild...

Take a look at this video and you will be pleasantly shocked at the results... just didn't pick up power in the top end... picked up 20-30 hp and tq throughout the graph... same type of testing like Richard Holdener did on the other video i described... plus David Vizard discusses as well... great stuff..

Ed

Noobz347 said:

Had to try a black wheel because it looked cool

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Nice

The short block bolts up the same...minus 1 hole on the valve covers you just plug with rtv...use the 2v heads, timing and valve covers, oil pan..pump, ect...all bolts up the same... read my build..I use an 01 cobra short block...all 2v hardware will bolt up with 1 or 2 small modifications..1 being the timing cover for rtv..as far as ecu..you just get it custom dyno tuned for reprogrmming...use the same harness... you have to replace the block anyway and is the cheapest and best way to do it..

The short block bolts up the same...minus 1 hole on the valve covers you just plug with rtv...use the 2v heads, timing and valve covers, oil pan..pump, ect...all bolts up the same... read my build..I use an 01 cobra short block...all 2v hardware will bolt up with 1 or 2 small modifications..1 being the timing cover for rtv..as far as ecu..you just get it custom dyno tuned for reprogrmming...use the same harness... you have to replace the block anyway and is the cheapest and best way to do it..

Ed

AeroCoupe said:

Bama chips are junk. Have seen more people remove them and get an SCT and problem solved. Not saying that is it but man are they garbage.

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Yes I've read this, im not sure if the stock system will support the mods or not. I've also began entertaining a vacume leak somewhere. Havnt found one at the motor anywhere but maybe evap canister purge is part of my problem?

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Bama chips are junk. Have seen more people remove them and get an SCT and problem solved. Not saying that is it but man are they garbage.

Large Connector
Tan Wire - Check Engine Light (Pin 17 on the ECU)
Tan/Gr Wire - Fuel pump test. The ground to trigger the fuel pump relay come from Pin 22 on ECU. This wire also goes to the fuel pump relay so that when you manually ground it and the key is on the fuel pump will run. If my memory serves me correctly the wire from the ECU goes to this large connector and then goes do the fuel pump relay under the driver seat so that is why you are seeing the two wires and why they have to be connected.

STI Connector
Wht / Red Wire - Goes back to the ECU and when grounded put the ECU in test mode (PIN 48). If you put power to this it will burn a trace in the ECU. My guess is the primary color on the wire has tinted with age and if you gently used some hand cleaner and a rag to clean it you would see that it is indeed Wht/Red.

As for the Gr/Red wire I do not have my wiring diagrams with me so I am of no help on that one but the VREF from the ECU is 5.0V+ so 4.87V+ is really close to that.

Actually, check ebay motors... there are some aluminum blocks remanufactured for 01 cobra .20 overbore for 1599.00, just get the block, put on all your items and get it tuned... it should have a -2 to -4 cc pistons.... so compression will jump up to around 11.1 so will need a tune but gain 35-40hp accross the board and lose 70 lbs off the car... just some thoughts.. would need new head gaskets, chains, guides, and a few other pieces... reliable fun car with close to 280-300ish HP... add in some new cams and get over 300... Hope this helps..

Ed