Build Thread Bird_dog0347's Frankenstang, sure is nice of us to build a car around the fuel filler door
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@bird_dog0347
Remove the factory braided strap from the intake to fire wall and replace with a 4ga wire
Remove the factory braided strap from the intake to fire wall and replace with a 4ga wire
Probably trying to stay dry. The weather down here has been ridiculous. Im probably going to have to leave work around lunch and go help my parents evacuate. More rain this week, too!
It's not as bad in NTX as it is down in Houston, but we get rain pretty much daily. Doesn't make me want to drive the Fox much, plus I've been busy at the lake all weekend, and trying to maintain all my toys, it's almost too much lately.
Man, I really need to get back to work on this car... do something with it or at least drive it more often but no AC in TX summer can be a little brutal when my GT blows ICE cold. That said, I plan to borrow the back wheels/tires off the notch tonight and put them on the GT for inspection tomorrow. My rear tires are just below the markers and I don't feel like spending $500 to replace them when they are otherwise fine, so a little mis-matched wheel/tire swaparoo should get me what I need. Maybe I'll even leave it up on jack stands and get some other work done.
FWIW, I put some Cooper RS3-S tires on my GT when the Michelins wore out and they're as good if not better. Come with a mileage warranty too. Cheap alternative for sure.
Ok, so this past weekend I took the notch to a Fox get together and it was about eleventy billion degrees outside that day (thermometer only read 102 though? strange...). It showed it was running much warmer than I'd normally like on the factory gauge but on my laptop I saw a max of 213 degrees on the way out there (hottest time) while I data logged but the gauge was over half way and has a 270 mark at the top. On the way home, I didn't data log cause I seem to have issues with the PC keeping it's connection to the MS unit when driving at night with my lights on... the lights being on also causes the temp gauge to immediately show about 1 notch higher and drops back down with the lights off.
I had thought this might be due to a bad ground from the engine to the car, but I replaced the stock ground strap with a 4ga ground wire with good connections and a good clean mount to the body. Soooo... it looks like I'll be chasing down a possible ground issue. ALSO, I've got my WB gauge ground wire going right to the battery and it seems that ground should be the exact same as what the MS ECU ground is... should I move the gauge ground to splice into the factory harness ground which is what the MS ECU uses or redo the ground from the ECU right to the negative battery? Just for extra info, I get no noise or static or anything like that in my stereo system to make me think there's any other obvious problems.
@a91what
I had thought this might be due to a bad ground from the engine to the car, but I replaced the stock ground strap with a 4ga ground wire with good connections and a good clean mount to the body. Soooo... it looks like I'll be chasing down a possible ground issue. ALSO, I've got my WB gauge ground wire going right to the battery and it seems that ground should be the exact same as what the MS ECU ground is... should I move the gauge ground to splice into the factory harness ground which is what the MS ECU uses or redo the ground from the ECU right to the negative battery? Just for extra info, I get no noise or static or anything like that in my stereo system to make me think there's any other obvious problems.
@a91what
Almost forgot photos of the meet... there was a BAD ASS notch with a coyote/T56/IRS and a sweet paint job, it had full PS/PB/AC as well. It's basically exactly what I want mine to be except mine will be blue. I also saw my first legit 93 Cobra R in person, this one had even actually been raced and not just sitting in a temp controlled garage.
RED, WHITE, & BLUE... 'Merica!
RED, WHITE, & BLUE... 'Merica!
Very nice cars! That coyote/T56/IRS notch is really sweet. Does he have 9" wide SC reps on the back? Or 8" all around?
My suggestion would be to take the wb and ecu to a common ground. OR you can simply input the offset into the program by using the "custom wb" option. just offset the voltage or afr accordingly. [this will require testing to ensure it is correct]
Would you suggest the common ground go right to the negative terminal on the battery or to the chassis?
Yes, from neg terminal to the bolt just under the water pump, and also to the chassis via a smaller wire right next to the starter solenoid.
Also I just looked and I've only put 2100 miles on the car since I got it over 4 years ago.
Ok, so update here... I decided I was tired of worrying about the temps so I got a SVE radiator, new 180 thermostat, ditched the UD pulleys and got stock steel pulleys. So far so good... doesn't get above 1/4 on the crappy ford temp gauge where it was getting 3/4 before.
Now... I think I have the cooling issue taken care of, but I think the tune CERTAINLY still needs work @a91what and I'll likely be putting myself into the "owes Steve MUCH MORE beer" category. Every single time I start the car... hot or cold, I've got to play with the gas pedal to keep it from dying until the WB sensor starts to actually read something. THEN it works fine, it's like it ignores the IAC (which I don't know how to test) and then once the WB controller (Innovate LC2) starts to read the actual O2 it idles fine. I'm not running closed loop BTW. I'll put some logs and .msq files in the other thread hopefully tomorrow.
Edit: Crap, forgot to mention that at idle it's at 34 PSI on the BBK liquid filled FPG before my fuel rail... (can see RIGHT under upper radiator hose far left elbow) pretty sure that's supposed to be higher but not sure how to do that without an adjustable FPR or a new pump (I'm ok with doing both as a long term solution). Is that ok? or too low?
That said I feel like I've made some good progress and it's close to being driveable daily for my 38+ mile commute these days.
Now... I think I have the cooling issue taken care of, but I think the tune CERTAINLY still needs work @a91what and I'll likely be putting myself into the "owes Steve MUCH MORE beer" category. Every single time I start the car... hot or cold, I've got to play with the gas pedal to keep it from dying until the WB sensor starts to actually read something. THEN it works fine, it's like it ignores the IAC (which I don't know how to test) and then once the WB controller (Innovate LC2) starts to read the actual O2 it idles fine. I'm not running closed loop BTW. I'll put some logs and .msq files in the other thread hopefully tomorrow.
Edit: Crap, forgot to mention that at idle it's at 34 PSI on the BBK liquid filled FPG before my fuel rail... (can see RIGHT under upper radiator hose far left elbow) pretty sure that's supposed to be higher but not sure how to do that without an adjustable FPR or a new pump (I'm ok with doing both as a long term solution). Is that ok? or too low?
That said I feel like I've made some good progress and it's close to being driveable daily for my 38+ mile commute these days.
Looks good.
Fuel pressure is fine as long as with the vacuum removed your within the 38-43psi range.
Fuel injectors are rated at 43.5psi (don't read to much into that)
I'm more of a scotch guy.
Fuel pressure is fine as long as with the vacuum removed your within the 38-43psi range.
Fuel injectors are rated at 43.5psi (don't read to much into that)
I'm more of a scotch guy.
