It‘s almost a crime.
Something’s just gotta be wrong when w/o hardly any modifications AT ALL you can make a Prius EPS motor assembly fit in the stock column mount in an old Fox body..
But that’s what I did.
This is mega condensed, I took very few progress pics. After I started doing it, I realized that while it seemed relatively straight forward, nobody is gonna butcher their stock column like I did to make this work. So I figured that I was doing it for myself in typical one-off fashion.
I figured I’d fill the oil pan and check it for leaks one final time while I was doing other stuff.
No leaks.
I called the guy that makes the Coil mount bracket. He said I could send it back for a refund. I told him I planned to use the LS coils that I have, and will remote mount them..He didn’t have anything good to say about that. ( Said LS coils were noisy, low output, and failure prone.)....Perfect.
As opposed to having coils mounted between the cams, and having to hack it up, I prefer to use this cover, although I’m not too keen on keeping the Toyota script. If I can, I’ll smooth off all of the Toyota badging completely...that little oval area where the Toyota logo is......Hmmmmm...What could I put there I wonder? What other manufacturer uses an oval shape for their logo.....
Ill have to check.
Here’s the meat and potatoes...getting it to this point was stupid easy. After cleaning off all of the Toyo-brackets,..you can literally re use the rear mount “ slip mount” to hold the thing in close proximity to where it needs to go. The motor fits in the factory cut out. On the output side, I’ve ordered a 17mm splined coupler that converts to double d. I’ll have a small output shaft hanging out through the firewall that will be DD.
To get it to where you see it was a bunch of work. The input shaft on the Prius is splined, the steering shaft on the fox is DD. I had to cut and modify the input and the outputs a few times to get the thing to this state. I’m gonna put the Mount bracket in permanently, and hang the EPS motor to determine if if got this thing the right overall length, and make sure it’s clocked correctly before I weld it together. Once I do that, it’s final..No do overs. I’ll be sealing the steering shaft inside the tube with no way to get stuff apart should something be wrong ( which is entirely possible)
The steering shaft that connects the Prius to the ford is fairly involved. I was able to cut it using a big tubing cutter, so I was able to keep the cuts square. The “involved” part was how to join the two. I decided to tap each one using a 1/2” pipe tap. Then thread a close nipple in, and literally screw the two ends together. It kept it straight enough to allow me to beat and bang on it until it rolled fairly consistent.
Then I welded the piss out of it.
One end slides tightly over the splined input shaft that the Prius had, the other end transitions from round to DD, and it slides into the steering shaft of the Monster. The shaft is supported behind the steering wheel with a bearing, and the Prius motor is rigid, so no need to support it on that end.
After I hang the thing, Mark it for clocking, make sure that it’s not too long/or short ( nothing I can do about that) I’ll remove it and.....
Weld the piss out of that too.