Blow Thru MAF ?
- Thread starter 00BlkStangGT
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That would leave un-metered air meaning it would run rich just like if you had a vacuum leak. The PCM would not be able to meter the airflow at idle either and parking lots will be a dangerous place. Would you make it to the hospital? Sure. Is it worth it to go to McDonalds? Not really. What is keeping you from properly plumbing it up? You don't need that giant 3/4 inch hose. That's just to keep noise down. I have a 1/4 orifice in mine and it does pretty good. It will idle fine- the restriction makes rev's drop faster between shifts and gives more engine braking.
Was just curious. Trying to get this install wrapped up and nobody really in my area that does tig welding. Got any other ideas on how to run the iac to the discharge tube?
I told you wrong- it will run lean which is BAD. Do not drive it to McDonalds.
You can drill your discharge tube after the MAF and tap it to pipe threads and screw in a hose barb if you think it is thick enough. I would go 3/8 NPT to a similarly sized hose and then get one of those barb to barb adapters from the parts store and step it up to 3/4 or whatever the IAC takes. Of course you will take the tube off to do this- lots of metal shavings will be made that do not belong in your engine. I'd use a sealant on the hose barb to discharge but I'm not sure which. Teflon paste or maybe better- silicone? Also be sure that you *do not* over torque the hose barb or you *will* strip the threads you just cut. If you find a hose barb made of the same material as your discharge pipe, you can just have it welded up when you find someone- after you clean the silicone off of course. Hose clamps would be cheap insurance also.
You can drill your discharge tube after the MAF and tap it to pipe threads and screw in a hose barb if you think it is thick enough. I would go 3/8 NPT to a similarly sized hose and then get one of those barb to barb adapters from the parts store and step it up to 3/4 or whatever the IAC takes. Of course you will take the tube off to do this- lots of metal shavings will be made that do not belong in your engine. I'd use a sealant on the hose barb to discharge but I'm not sure which. Teflon paste or maybe better- silicone? Also be sure that you *do not* over torque the hose barb or you *will* strip the threads you just cut. If you find a hose barb made of the same material as your discharge pipe, you can just have it welded up when you find someone- after you clean the silicone off of course. Hose clamps would be cheap insurance also.
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