94 GT Stalls when warm. MAF?

Valicy

New Member
Feb 12, 2020
12
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Washington
Car was running and sat for a few years being started occasionally. Started having a loping idle. Then it would stall when it warmed up a little and wouldn't restart until it was cold again. Pumped out old gas. Replaced the distributor/coil/spark plugs/wires and it runs much better but is still stalling when warm and won't restart. (Thought it was the pickup coil and it just needed a tuneup overall) It will continue to run if I unplug the MAF sensor and it's giving me a 158 code for the MAF Sensor voltage and a 334 for dpfe circuit. I've cleaned the MAF 2 times and it's not any better. Looks like there is a little blob on 1 side of 1 of the resistors on the MAF so I'm thinking it might be bad. It looks like it's receiving voltage and ground fine. Anything I should check before I replace the MAF? I've read somewhere it could be a stuck injector from old fuel also. Thanks for any info.

Edit: Got it to idle with MAF unplugged and timing was a little off so I got that adjusted to 10* BTC. Plugged it back in with it running and it seemed to idle fine but as soon as you give it gas it doesn't want to idle anymore. (Revs up fine) The check engine light isn't currently on but it's not wanting to idle when warm. Sprayed starter fluid around to check for vacuum leaks and didn't really find much. I did clean out the IAC and so maybe that's why it won't idle when warm.
 
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Go back over it checking for vacuum leaks, pull the upper to get to the hidden ones, check pcv and grommet.
Most idle stall issues are vacuum related.
Can't find any vacuum leaks but I took the maf sensor out and I'm not getting any resistance from pin A to any of the other pins like every guide says I should have. So I'm gonna pick one up tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

I'm also getting 1.6v between pin c and d at idle. Supposed to be like 0.6v.
 
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Update: New MAF sensor fixed the running problem but I still had a surging idle when hot that went from 400-1000rpm. Cleaned throttle body and IAC valve. Helped a little but still surging. Adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body a little bit and now it idles consistently at about 700-750rpm. Didn't have any vacuum leaks that I was able to find.
 
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