Alternator replacement

[JJHstang]

My alternator went out on my 71 Mustang Mach 1.
The engine is currently a 351 Windsor 4 bbl carb. Originally came out of the plant with a 302 2 bbl with AC.
I bought it with the 351 and it had a 2 bbl with adapter. I had the adapter removed and got a 4 bbl from Summit racing.
The alternator on it that went bad is a Bestest 01-0155X with a number 73006103.
I would like to find the correct replacement. I think I found the exact one at O’Oriellys for approximately $69.

Looking for thoughts, suggestions and advice.

 

[LILCBRA]

An O'Reilly's reman would work fine since that one's ost likely a reman from O'Reilly's as indicated by the sticker on the casing. O'Reilly's sells Bestest.

If you need more power, you could upgrade to a 3G alternator. But, as I've found in my car, you'll probably be forced into using a serpentine belt of some sort. I'm using a serpentine as I would a V-belt. The extra surface area of the serpentine belt helps eliminate belt squeal that the V-belt was doing. It just didn't have enough surface area and/or grip on the pulley for the new alternator.

Swapping to a 3G will also require some minor wiring changes and basically eliminating the regulator. This article helps explain:

https://www.motortrend.com/articles/install-high-output-ford-3g-alternator-older-fords/

Or if you want to look, I have a thread in the II section for when I did this. It's pretty easy really.....

MO POWAH!!

So I installed a 3G alternator in my car today. The original plan was to use a 3G alternator that I had when I got some parts for the GT. When I went to re-clock the alternator so the plug was pointing the right way, the damned casing come apart too far and broke one of the two brushes in the...

stangnet.com

 

[Realmongo]

Have you taken a look at the original alternator for a 302 with A/C? I would think the original wiring for it may still be intact.

 

[JJHstang]

Have you taken a look at the original alternator for a 302 with A/C? I would think the original wiring for it may still be intact.

Thanks.
I just bought a rebuilt at Autozone, Duralast 65 amp. $109 but will get $40 back when I bring in the old one. Not the best but lifetime warranty.
Looks like fairly straightforward removal and replacement (wiring is the same). The problem I have is how to put tension on the belt after installing the new alternator.
I can’t see anywhere I can find to get any leverage with a bar or pipe. I can get my left hand with plenty of room to ull back and up while tightening the lower bolt on the slide bracket.
Any suggestions or tricks?

 

[Realmongo]

I was expecting to see an upper bracket with a slot. Is the adjustment slot on the lower bracket?

 

[JJHstang]

I was expecting to see an upper bracket with a slot. Is the adjustment slot on the lower bracket?

Yes, got it installed, did a few tests and it is good. I was able to get both hands on the alternator. I lifted and pulled as a fried tightened the nut.

 

[Realmongo]

Yes, got it installed, did a few tests and it is good. I was able to get both hands on the alternator. I lifted and pulled as a fried tightened the nut.

Good News!

 

[JJHstang]

Have you taken a look at the original alternator for a 302 with A/C? I would think the original wiring for it may still be intact.

The new rebuilt has the same wiring connections as my old one. Only thing is the old one is not hooked up the same as shown it should be on videos. Black cap was on the red and red cap was on the gray/white and the connection was a push on like a mini spark plug connection (best way to explain). I felt if it worked for the old one I should hookup the same.
I did and it passed all the tests. Started the car up and free running a little while the amps went from a 12 to 14.3. Pulled off the negative on the battery and car kept running.
Attached the wiring that was how the old alternator was hooked up and how I hooked up the new.