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Head over to fordsix.com for a lot of good information on the sixes.

Thanks 2Blue2

Well I got my engine cross member bolts in last week and mounted the cross member before welding the nut in to be sure everything was a good fit. After installing the cross member welded the nut to the frame rail Removed the bolt and put a good coat of never seize on it and reinstalled. It's...

While waiting on the new cross member bolts to come in I test mounted the cross member with the bolt from the other side to determine the best way to attach the nut to the frame rail, with the nut on top of a washer or in the pocket. After trying to mount it with the nut on top of the washer...

I went to tractor supply with the cross member bolt form the other side to get the correct size nut and bolt. Found some hardware that would work so it's back to work out the best way to fit everything, in the original mounting space by tacking the nut in the original space or tack the nut to...

Worked on the broken bolt today and after some heat and help from a air hammer/chisel finally got the nut and bolt out without damage to the frame rail so it's off the tractor supply for some replacement bolts.

Tried soaking this bolt with penetrating oil and using a left hand drill bit to try and remove it still would not come out and the bolt was broken to far into the frame rail to weld anything to it without welding it to the frame. After everything else failed I decided to cut a section of the...

Looking for help or advice on the best way to remove a broken engine cross member bolt on my 66 mustang.

Hi and welcome. I agree with the above comments on trying to keep the rebuild under a $1000, it will be a challenge but you can keep it relative low by taking your time and shopping around and online for parts. I use rockauto.com with good results. Good luck with your build.

Welcome to the group, nice looking car.

Nice work but you can also widen your spark plug gap if you like. I wound up running mine at .44 with no problems.

I did the Scarebird conversion a couple of years ago, works great. He now sell hubs that you can purchase or you can turn your own, that what I did. One of the best things about the conversion is that you can get all the parts at your local parts store.

When I converted to front disc brakes on my 66 Mustang I keep the original distribution block and plumbed in a adjustable proportioning valve to the rear wheels, works great. If you go this route, don't forget to plug the port that went to the rear from the original distribution block.

I would install the correct one for the year car that CJ sent. I don't know what the one in your photo originally came on but it is not correct for the 66 Mustang.

I used a adjustable PV on my setup as it was easier to plumb and work with with the motor and everything in the car. I also used a master cylinder for disc/drum setup and did not use a residual valve. Everything works great.

I agree :nice:

When I built my 289 many years ago, I used a Ford Windage tray with Ford main cap bolts design for use with the windage tray. No adjustments needed, everything just bolted up and was a perfect fit :nice:.

Hi and welcome to the forum :welcome: and if the Mustang is going to be better than the Cougar it gonna be one bad a$$ Mustang. Good luck with it :nice:.

Congrats looks great :nice: