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If your car is a 5-speed, they have never had a dipstick. Some other newer Ford automatics (like the Explorers) do not have a dipstick either since they are "maintenance free"

Chilton's is correct- they are defintely not in numerical order. And I know cause I'm a civil engineer... :p

The RPM's will drop slowly due to the EEC's control in emissions reducution burning off excess fuel. Some hang is very normal, but it if hangs for a long period then there are other issues.

The coil does have an odd placement for cylinders 4, 5, and 6. It seems out of order, but that is the order they should be plugged in. If you plug them in 4,5,6 the car will run poorly

Couple points... OBD-II cars aren't capable for "pin shorting" to read codes. You have to have a OBD-II code reader. And the DTC's you get from the odometer reading do NOT show "check engine" codes. Autozone will read the codes for free. You HAVE TO get the codes read to know why the...

I would at all costs steer clear of aftermarket MAF's. The only manipulate the stock MAF signal to lean the car to make more power- it is not the size. But it also is done in a manor that is not reliable. Blinding the EEC is NEVER a good idea. Save you money.

Get a SCT chip... the best on the market right now.

Check out the SCT microtuner. I've had a Diablo and I'm defintely partial to SCT products. The best you can get on the market now.

I had the exact same problem on my 97. I tried a million different solutions to find the ONLY solution was to use the stock wires. I tried 3 brands of aftermarket wires, new cam sensors, a different coil pack and none would solve the problem. I believe it's from RF's coming off the wires...

T5

I feel a lock coming on....

Depending on the year of T-5. Pre 95's have a shorter input shaft. All pre 99 T-5's have a different tailshaft with a mechanical speedometer. And 99+ V6 T-5's are among the strongest production T-5's ever produced. So unless it is a WC T-5, you are trading down.

Have you had the entire fuel tank and pump replaced? The sand may have contaminated the entire fuel system, thus requiring it all to be replaced.

Well most people spend that much on dual exhaust and get little to no horsepower. For a guy looking for a car with a few boltons and never do much more, a chip can be gotten early- even more so if you have an auto. Most other boltons are not really an issue for a chip. It is when you start...

The problems with 95's was the head gaskets, not the heads themselves. 98 heads had slightly different springs, valves, and combustion chamber- nothing to particularly cause any concerns or advantage per se. I'm sure that engine is just a remanufactured engine. If it is a 2000 model...

They are basically the same functionally so you can splice the harness and use them. The rear O2 sensors only real function is to make sure the cats are functioning properly. They have no effect on fuel trims.

FMU on a NA car? And he won't be anywhere near needing a larger MAF or even TB. Philosopher- Half what you listed has nothing to do with HP... but with those heads, etc. and LT's, maybe in the 210-220 rwhp range at best since with an auto.

I agree- use the 99+ Ford gaskets. I've blown Fel-Pro's before, but the 99+ style gaskets held without a problem. They are rock solid.

The bore is virtually the same. It's the stroke that changed. It still the same virtual engine in every aspect except for a couple parts (crank, rods)

Well, it can be disconnect at the tranny by disconnecting the wires to the speed sensor. Doing this will probably cause the engine not to rev above 4000 rpm. Plus it is illegal.