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Why would you cut sheet metal to change the heater core? I'm really, really not understanding the reasoning...:jaw:

Trace it out using a multimeter and the schematic:

Do yourself a favor and take the fender extensions, glass, and any remaining body parts out. You'll get a much better paint job.

67's have 2 flashers - one for the turn signals, and one for the emergency flashers. You can try swapping them to see if the problem continues.

Get yourself a multimeter, and measure it yourself. When my alternator wasn't charging I had the following voltage directly at the battery: 12.32V full battery everything off ~10.5V @ start 12.09V @ idle 12.11V @ 2k rpm 12.06V @ 2k rpm w/ parking lights 11.95V @ 2k rpm w/ headlights...

Main dash power comes in on the driver's side behind the gauges. Wiggling any connector is certainly not a "fix" that I would trust to get me home in the dark after a car meet.

Hate to point out the obvious, but have you checked the Flasher? They DO go bad... Do your Hazard lights work? Which year Mustang?

It might help if you were to describe the "problem" with more detail. I have a turn signal switch from NPD and have absolutely no problems with it.

Update: I pulled the fusebox out to make some sense out of what was connected to where. The Flasher relay connects directly to the bottom SFE20 fuse on the fusebox, which was grounded. After tracing the wires that also run to that fuse (cigarette lighter, clock) it was actually the flasher that...

I would try another switch...

The ground for the headlights is on 2 ring terminals that are under the bottom screw on the voltage regulator. (drivers side radiator support)

I plan on tracing that yellow plug to see where it goes once I'm done with the fuse issue.

After busting out the multimeter and tracing a bit, the culprit is the (not in use) blue/black stripe clock wire going to the cluster that is grounded somewhere. I'll need to pull the ignition switch and fusebox to find the problem. At least then I can pull the harness through and fix and...

I have A/C and a Seat Belt warning light, although I'm not sure why either would need juice from the starter solenoid.

Morning, I've traced the schematics and you're right: the "hot" wire splits on the fused side to the cigarette lighter, the clock, and the hazard flasher which goes to the turn signal switch. At the moment my instrument cluster is out, and I did try with the cigarette lighter disconnected...

Hi, Been beating on my `67 Fastback to get a few problems fixed: 1. Swap front wiring harness (fried at radiator support, no charging) 2. sfe20 (bottom) fuse blowing 3. Blinkers slow, brake light a lil late, etc. 1. I have swapped the front harness with all lights, horn, etc...

Well...I found the problem! :D Picked up a voltage regulator, popped it in, and no change. I started measuring voltages: 12.32V full battery everything off ~10.5V @ start 12.09V @ idle 12.11V @ 2k rpm 12.06V @ 2k rpm w/ parking lights 11.95V @ 2k rpm w/ headlights Then thought to...

Hmm..I've put the battery that was in the car on the charger overnight. I'll take it in and get it tested tomorrow. At least then I will know whether it was actually ok... As far as getting the alternator tested here, I'll need to call around some to see if anyone can test it. Kind of like...

Popped in my other battery after having it on the charger for over 24 hours. Car started right up as usual and ran normally with the lights on. I was talking to one of the car guys from the club here and he said that if I were to pull the negative cable off the battery while the car is...

I have another battery on the charger right now, I'll give it a try later on today.