Search results

Thanks again guys. Time will tell what happens next with cars and me, so for now I'm leaving my options open. Good to hear from everyone again. :nice:

Thanks guys. I've had some other things going on that I decided had to come first, so I put all my Mustang stuff on hold. I've actually been thinking about selling this current project and moving onto another one, but we'll have to see what the future holds. I'm going to try to get back...

Hey everyone, I've been away for a while, but hopefully some of you old timers remember me. I see plenty of new people and changes here -- looks like everything is going very well. Anyway, wanted to drop a note and let everyone know I'm going to try to spend some more time here now. So...

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. When I spotted the different mounting I decided not to drill any holes, but I believe it could be done securely, as mentioned above. :nice:

The difference between 3.73's and 4.10's is like 2.73's and 3.08's. Sure it's different, and it will feel a little different, but probably not make or break anything.

I'd disconnect anyway, just because that's what I've always heard -- but don't really know for sure if it makes a difference.

I had disconnected the battery at that point. Not when I welded the full-length subframe connectors. Oops. No problems though. :shrug:

All of the plugs are the same, the moutning is different. Been there, done that.

I like it -- no complaints. I used Mobil-1 for years in everything I owned and decided to try Amsoil in my Mustang. Can't say I noticed a difference, but that just means it's working. :nice:

If you still wanted to you could probably score a new bushing from Ford. On the later model cars it is also a problem with the plastic bushings and there is a brass bushing that replaces it from Ford to correct this. Might be the same type of thing for carb'd applications. BTW, it's not a...

You can have battle boxes and weld the seams. Welding the seams will most likely require having the control arms out (I did) but not the gas tank. The battle boxes would also be handle to install as well since you're right in the same area.

The 86 5.0 Mustang intake ports are smaller all around, I would imagine any other 86 that is similar will also be.

I don't know what they're for. I don't buy the cooling theory due to the Cobra intake, and I don't buy the heating theory due to the coolant warm up issues. I think maybe they were an idea for something else and just got left behind somehow. :shrug:

I don't know about $120, but you can usually find FMS gears for about $139 if you look around. Like I said earlier -- I think FMS is a better bet. :shrug:

My suggestion if you really end up in a bind is to continue with the UHaul route. I found out a ways back that there are corporate UHaul dealers and independant ones -- and they all look the same. If you go to an indepandant, they will not always have the same rules or access to equipment as...

Brandon, after you have your appraisal done go get yourself some nice collector car insurance as well. I can help with details, but tell you right now it will probably save you a bunch and really protect the car for it's full value. :nice:

...just to throw a little more fuel on the fire, how about this: spherical bushings simply transmit everthing through them, past the boxes that are solid, and into the frame somewhere. Rubber bushings that allow the control arms to move around in the torque boxes hit the boxes harder, since...

I'm sure you can install ANYBODY'S gears and have them work well -- but the FMS are definitely easier. Easier = more chance of a good install the first time. $50 makes no difference in the big picture -- a good install does.

Not that I'm still debating, but I've heard this before as well. My thoughts about this were that if you go with this theory, then it sounds like saying the unibody flexes more than the engine and transmission under load -- so put rubber mounts in and it could be completely out of control --...

I think you need to do a little detective work. I think it was a year or two ago on here I remember a post about these factory pipes. It seems that if you ordered the assembly from a dealer, it would be around $600, BUT if you ordered the various part numbers for the pipes and cats from a...