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Moving weight from the front to the rear is best, but adding weight may not be a bad thing. I depends on where it is and if it would solve a traction problem. Yes, adding weight makes the car heavier but if you can't hook you're going to be spending time repaving the street/track with your...

I'm thinking either your coil is weak or an A/F ratio not being managed correctly. I'm also wondering if the ignition advance is not working properly.

Does it pop at higher rpm, just under load, or both?

An easy way to look for spark leak is to run the engine at night with no lights around. If there are spark leaks, you'll be able to easily see them.

They probably lost it when they were filling out their federal ID10T form...

Not meaning to hijack this thread but a related question...how accurate is the factory dash tach?

Hey, at least he's using different sizes to account for the different amperages.

The PO must be one of those elementary particles of the universe...you know...electrons. protons, neutrons, and morons.

That guy needs to find a new crack dealer! It's probably been cut with Drano!

The effect on power output will depend on how much lower your CR is compared to the 302 heads. You may find the difference is actually minimal. What's more important is flow characteristics. Notice I said flow characteristics and not max flow. The area "under the curve" at a targeted RPM is...

That thought ran through my mind as well but I've seen super insulated racing wires cause a timing light to trigger. If the light trigger is the clamp on type, check for a directional arrow and if one exists make sure that the arrow points towards the spark plug. Also, make sure the clamp...

If it works on the other car and you immediately try it on this car and you're not getting a flash I would have to conclude that some how you're not hooking it up correctly on this car. I can't see any other reason it wouldn't work. Anyone else have any ideas?

Is the light just not flashing or is it that you can't see the timing marks? The timing light uses the current passing to the spark plug to trigger the flash. If the engine is running and the timing light is hooked up right, it will flash unless there is no current to that plug.

I'm in Colorado as well, Lakewood to be specific. And I had the same problem. But with a lot of help from the people here, especially jrichker, and some research on my own, I was able to get my stang to pass emissions.

It might not be that the MAF can't read that much air but that the air it's trying to read doesn't flow correctly into the MAF. That the air flow is disturbed. I've read that this is a problem with some aftermarket cold air ducts.

You should be able to move the upper far enough out of the way without having to disconnect any hoses. Just be careful not to damage them, especially if they are old. Old hoses tend to be brittle and can break. Watch out for the vacuum lines. Those sometimes break just because you looked at...

I was racing one night and came against a RED. I was running 12's and the RED was running 8's. I was almost to the finish line when he went around me about 180 mph! I had a bad light and he beat me to the finish line and did not break out.

Ok, if you want to run a carb the most pressure you want, measured at the carb, is 6-7 psi. If the electric fuel pump that's in the car works then you can just get regulator to drop the pressure down. Depending on the regulator and/or how much pressure your pump puts out you might not need a...

Not sure what you mean by "sub tank" but you will need a fuel pressure regulator if that's what you mean by "carb regulator".