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Ok heres the deal, i did the PI intake swap over a year ago and used the PI gasgets and RTVed everywhere i shouldnt have on that Pi gagsget, i RTVed all the intake parts on the valley side, which is what your supposed to do with the NPI gasgets i belive...anyway i took the car apart this winter...

That is the place, but for some reason their price on the website shows $399.00, however in my recent issues of muscle mustang magazine they advertise them for $359.00, so call them up at 734-459-0130 and see whats up. I may be doing this kit soon.

for $5700 you could have a badass motor. Dont look at placeslike that for motors, get on ebay or in the classifieds. I found an 04 cobra motor and trans with low miles that went for $3500 for everything on ebay. Just food for thought. Ryan

Buyford racing sells the cobra front brake kit including calipers, rotors, and lines for $359. thats a steal.

Hey Kilgore, Glad to see you got that problem figured out and fixed. I remember a while back you posting about that and wondering what it was, some people said ball joint but i was tellin you it sounded just like my wheel bearing and that seems to be the case....anyway its nice to know its all...

or a set of ratcheting wrenches works good too..

Then you should be good, this is a humming that is conistant with your cars speed and will vary by the turn off the steering wheel...wheni would slightly turn to the right my car would be silent, when it would be straight or to the left, it would be so loud i couldnt talk to my passenger. But...

do you get any humming or vibartations while driving?

Just like he says. Im my experience though, i noticed an annoying hum develop when driving my car at higher speeds. So one day i had the car on stands and relaized my passenger front wheel had alot of play in it, so i took it to my buddy whose a mechanic at ford and he told me to replace inner...

I need an A/C for may car, dont listen to these buffoons..PM me a price. BTW just get a fuel line diconnect tool to release the lines, and 4 bolts hold the A/C compressor on the block. Ryan

Yes, but not as easy as it sounds. gotta change alota wires and ****. but not too hard to pull off. it wil bolt right in though.

free post beyatches

do i really need my airbags? maybe i'll sell them :) sure could use another set of wheels and tires lol

i guess nobody knows anything here....time to go back to corral..

Alright well i am currently running a PI intake on my 98 GT motor that is in my 99 (used to be a v6 car). Its not the livernois kit, i just put the PI gasgets and RTVd the inner valley side of all the ports. I just want to make sure that the PI intake sitting on the non PI heads wont cause any...

Found a BBK 70mm TB for $100, should i get it? my car is mildly modified with bolt ons, full exhaust, cold air intake, pulleys, predator, and will be installing a wet kit thsi winter, would there be any real benefit for the 70mm throttle body? how noticeabl would it be? and what are the stock...

do not drive it anywhere, it will come up on you. what does the realse handle do/ or feel like when you pull on it? does it feel like its working right? can you tell if its causing any movement in the latch area? i think that it is your problem, that the cable is hung up keeping the latch...

did you maybe hit a bump or curb and bend wheel possibly?

when i say push nd pull, im refereing to the handle under the dash, it seems to get stuck in the pulled out posistion and i have to get it back in, then it usualy latches no problem. hope this helps, let me know. Ryan

i had it, at least i think so. Mine was the hood latch release cable getting hung up, i just pulled and pushed it a few times and pushed it in and my hood would latch, give it a try.