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Gears are a great upgrade for sure, but I'd be careful going much higher than 3:73s with a stock setup. How tall you go on the gears depends on: (1) Traction (tire/suspension setup). You get more torque (better hole shot) by increasing gear ratio, but only up to traction limits. If you are on...

I had to shift rad position 3/4", make new mounts, & rotate overflow tank down to get everything to fit with aftermarket 2" rad. As long as it all fits, that's all that matters for a radiator. Easier to make new brackets than to cut up or replace shroud if you don't have to.

I'm sorry got a hard time (especially as a new member) - the people on this forum are pretty good guys, but even the best of us have bad days, so don't let that discourage you from asking questions in the future. You came to the right place! If distributor isn't spinning with crank, pull a...

You have a restriction somewhere in the fuel supply.

If you're confident the cooling system & timing are OK, you could be running lean.

If you're rotor was broken & now you are unable to remove the distributor from the block, I'd start by getting to the bottom of that matter before worrying about the wiring or an oil leak.

The engineer in me loves the idea of EFI, but frankly unless I go with full blown custom programmable system (which isn't worth the $ for me), I'm sick of hassling with the quirks, so going carb for this round. What duration at .050 do you recommend for best compromise between top end & decent...

Looking to run high/mid 10's on motor - figure ~ 500 hp. Might add a turbo or blower down the road, but that's not the plan right away, so figure ~11:1 to start with. Not looking to build a pure drag car, but something fun on the street, so 5 or 6 speed trans (not ratchet style). As far as...

Current 306 runs strong, but no longer satisfied with it - I'm looking to build something that will be scary fast (& prefer small block for fitment & don't believe in nitrous). Heard that a Windsor based 408 is the way to go. Anyone with experience building a 408 (that ran well)? I'm looking...

You want to use a bender that has a die on both the inside & outside to avoid wrinkling

If the engine is running rough the vacuum will be unsteady, but this doesn't automatically mean the problem is with the vacuum system. The old school way to quickly check for vacuum leaks is to run an (unlit) butane torch or similar combustible spray over the intake seals & vacuum joints &...

Whenever I see something like that, initial thought is "what a moron", but second thought is "If that guy is trying to be funny, that is awesome!"

The 5.0 is a naturally good sounding motor...Shorty headers, mild cam, 2-1/2 exhaust, cheap mufflers, no cats...

Ha, that was the one thing I retained from fluid dynamics class 10 years ago :). In addition to the velocity increase purely from change in cross section, when going large to small the "dead air" at the circumference of the passage acts like a funnel to smooth flow. In contrast, small to large...

The engine temperature varies a ton based on where you measure. Sure the temp will be different if you measure at the rad inlet vs. outlet, but by the same token the temp within the cylinders will be 100x higher than either place, so which temp is most important to pay attention too? Easy...

As a general rule, you want the air passage to either be the same size or get smaller all the way from the air filter to the intake valve - going small to large at any point actually makes flow worse. But most of us can only afford to upgrade one part at a time, so short term compromise is part...

I really like drag racing, but every time I try & watch the fast & furious movies it is like nails on the chalkboard. Maybe as a Mustang owner I just know better? Two Lane Blacktop is a great movie...

TTY bolts are intended to give more precise clamping force (which is purpose of head bolts.) The relationship between clamping force & torque (on non-TTY bolts) is not very precise - increased thread friction (if not chased/lubed) can result in too low of clamping force even at the "right"...

A broken sway bar end link causes a clunking noise. The bolt can be broken inside the sleeve, which makes it hard to see. I seem to break one every 15k-30k miles if I'm driving hard, so that's the first thing I check when I hear a clunking noise.

I've had the best luck running copper exhaust gaskets & pre-treating them by annealing (heat with a butane torch & allow to cool to soften up before install.) Aside from that, it works best to use bolts with either an Allen or Torx fitting in the center to give you the ability to tighten them...